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Is there a test for the rear shock without having to remove it? I am thinking mine is starting to get sloppy.
 

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Agreed with the above statement, and if it feels like a mushy pogo stick. It is time for a rebuild. The stock spring is generally too soft in rate to handle the load. Depending on your weight, you should consider a stronger spring. The preload mechanism is another concern. Many times fluid must be added to make it start working at the beginning of its travel.
 

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Your signature says you have a 2012 shock with a Progressive spring, so the first thing I'd ask is where does your preload start building pressure. With your preload set at 0, push the switch and listen to the pump. Does it start to change its tone as it increases? If so, at what number does it start to change? If it's not changing starting at 1, you need to service that preload system, beginning with cleaning the pump. If you haven't replaced the plastic hose going from the pump to the shock, a new stainless braided hose won't hurt. Follow Fred H's procedure for servicing and bleeding that system, the results will surprise you. Good luck.
 
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Your signature says you have a 2012 shock with a Progressive spring, so the first thing I'd ask is where does your preload start building pressure. With your preload set at 0, push the switch and listen to the pump. Does it start to change its tone as it increases? If so, at what number does it start to change? If it's not changing starting at 1, you need to service that preload system, beginning with cleaning the pump. If you haven't replaced the plastic hose going from the pump to the shock, a new stainless braided hose won't hurt. Follow Fred H's procedure for servicing and bleeding that system, the results will surprise you. Good luck.
Very interesting suggestion here: *Thank you*:kiss::kiss:

I will listen to your suggestion here and will check mine out as well..........

Ronnie
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Confirmed

Your signature says you have a 2012 shock with a Progressive spring, so the first thing I'd ask is where does your preload start building pressure. With your preload set at 0, push the switch and listen to the pump. Does it start to change its tone as it increases? If so, at what number does it start to change? If it's not changing starting at 1, you need to service that preload system, beginning with cleaning the pump. If you haven't replaced the plastic hose going from the pump to the shock, a new stainless braided hose won't hurt. Follow Fred H's procedure for servicing and bleeding that system, the results will surprise you. Good luck.
Preload starts at 1. Checked the records and the shock was put in at 77k and now has 127k. Guess I have a winter project now. Did the bounce test like on a car. On the side stand got it bouncing in the rear an let go. There is no resistance at all pushing down on it but it does stop the bouncing pretty quick when you let go. Must have lost its nitrogen charge is my guess.

Anyone know of a trike shop that sells the shocks. Looked at Ebay but most don't tell you how many miles they have on them.

Thanks
Tim
 

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Terminology…


Have to keep in mind that the spring is the actual shock absorber. The cylinder is actually the dampener.
So if the spring compresses easily, it has lost its ability to counter bounce or road shock.


The cylinder dampens the bounce. If this is warn, one will experience the bouncing rear suspension you described.


So I would recommend at least testing the spring and replacing the hydraulic cylinder.


Corventure Dave
 

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The Progressive rear spring is a 1,200 lb/in spring, and is way too stiff for the OEM shock to control. It will accelerate the wear on the shock, and it sounds like that is what has happened to you. You'll need a new shock, and I would not advise putting that stiff of a spring back on it, our else you'll be back in the same boat in short order.

If you need a stiffer shock, I'd suggest you get a Traxxion shock, which has a matched spring that the shock can handle, and can be rebuilt if it ever needs to be.
 

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@Fred H. If you know, now you have me curious what the OEM shock spring is rated rated? As I recall it changed between the 2001-2010 and 2012-2017 but I don't recall what they were.
 

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@Fred H. If you know, now you have me curious what the OEM shock spring is rated rated?

It depends on the model year of the bike, but they are between 900 to about 975 lb/in. The Progressive rear spring is 1,200 lb/in and the OEM shock can not control it, and it will wear out the shock in short order.
 

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It depends on the model year of the bike, but they are between 900 to about 975 lb/in. The Progressive rear spring is 1,200 lb/in and the OEM shock can not control it, and it will wear out the shock in short order.
Daaaang, you're fast.
 

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a few years back I snagged two new shocks with two springs.

This winter, when I get to AZ, I am fortunate in that I am being forced to remove the fuel tank in order to remove and replace/repair the starter which currently does not function.

My little pea brain thought it would be a perfect time to replace the rear shock.


When I unpacked the shocks, it looks like there is only one spring which has been cut in half....but I am not sure.

Since I think it will be wise to have a new spring handy if needed, could somebody who has one measure the free length of the OEM spring? thanks. Min only look like 3 1/2 coils or so.
 

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Hey thanks, Murgie. Yep...somebody cut the spring in half. THANKS
 

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So Fred says the progressing spring will cause the shock to wear at an accelerated rate and is not recommended by him.

So what spring IS recommended?
 
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