[jplaster]

Just finished changing the rear stock D250 at 11500 miles. The torque value in the owners manual says 80 ft .lbs. I thought a while back on the board there was a revised torque value that was higher.Anyone know of a change from the book value.......thanks in advance!:doorag::doorag:

 

[TravelinLite]

I have not heard of a revised value. I am still using 80.

 

[FazerDude]

i follow Fred's advice

I put anti-seize on my rear lugs, and I don't torque them to the full 80 ft lbs either, cause I think that is simply overkill. Instead, I torque them to about 65 ft lbs and have never had a problem with them.

 

[dreamer]

I also thought 80flbs was a bit much and use anti seize and 65flbs.
If you think that is too light, try 70flbs.

 

[gfm52]

While I have immense respect for Fred and his abilities and knowledge of Gold Wings, why would you question what the manufacturer lists for torque values on something as critical as your rear wheel? Just my opinion and in no way trying to disparage Fred or other highly mechanical types on this forum. I just don't get why everyone is so quick to agree with a board member on any issue relating to their bike when it goes against what the manufacturer states.

 

[JohnACman]

At my last tire change I found one of the lug nuts had backed almost all the way off. I had torqued it to 80lbs when I installed the tire and had put a small amount of anti seize on the threads. I have since then checked the torque a couple of times and all 5 have been the same at 80lbs.

 

[jplaster]

Thanks for the replies.I think I'll stick with the Manufacturers specs on this issue. Having been an aviation mechanic for the past 30+ years it's become a habit. 80 doesn't seem totally outraegeous as cars seem to use similar values. Yes....I know it's not a car....but the design is basically the same as an aluminum wheel setup with similar stud/nut size. Doing the front shortly,thanks again..j:thumbup:

 

[Pigeon Roost]

I'm just a backwoods country boy shade tree hacker; but IF you put antisieze or other lube on the lugs/studs and then torque them to 80#', you will have applied a whole lot more torque to the fastens than what the Honda spec calls for. Will it be 10% or 20% or 30+% more? Eleph-rhino, but its gonna be way over tight.

One of our respected and knowlegable professional expert motorcycle mechanic members warns us to install with clean dry threads unless otherwise specified. Now, I don't like lifting the rearend of the bike clear off the ground with a 30" breaker bar any more than the next guy and do see some practical shade tree merit in that technique above attributed to Fred Harmon where by the torque is reduced by about 20% to 25% with antisieze used -- but ................

prs

 

[wildrider]

but IF you put antisieze or other lube on the lugs/studs and then torque them to 80#', you will have applied a whole lot more torque to the fastens than what the Honda spec calls for. Will it be 10% or 20% or 30+% more?

Why would it be more torque with an anti seize? Doesn'T make sense to me.:shrug:

 

[John Baker]

I have always heard not to use anti-sieze compound, grease or anything else on wheel lugs. Just clean and dry, then install them to 80 pounds. opcorn:

 

[n9frp]

I have always heard not to use anti-sieze compound, grease or anything else on wheel lugs. Just clean and dry, then install them to 80 pounds. opcorn:

:agree: I try to maintain 75 - 80 at all times.....dry.

 

[Pigeon Roost]

Why would it be more torque with an anti seize? Doesn'T make sense to me.:shrug:[/quote

The applied torque (torque as measured by your effort at twisting the fastener) will still be whatever you apply; but effective torque (torque as measured by the force the fastener applies to the components being fastened is going to be much greater. The threads of the dry fastener and the dry components will impart a great deal of friction that resists the applied torque - the antisieze compound will go a long way toward eliminating that friction. What would make more sense to me would be for the torque to be specified with anti-sieze.

prs

 

[1947rider]

Anti-seize and lug nuts

Absolutely a no no. I found out the hard way in my job(before retirement) I managed to break a $900 aluminum pulley because I thought I was smart when assembling with anti-seize. The torque ratings the manufacturers give you are for DRY threads....ask them if you can't believe this. I once read a question and answers column in an RV mag. A gentleman stated that when he was in the military, they used Milk of Magnesia(unflavored) as an anti-seize on an aircraft technical application. The column writer found this hard to believe and contacted the Air Force....sure enough.....they bought large quantities of the unflavored Milk of Magnesia just for this purpose. It apparently acts as an anti-seize only, but not a lubricant. Even if you're lucky enough to not break off a lug nut or something, you're liable to put too much stress on a bearing or gear or bushing or maybe even the rear end housing. There's enough reports on this site of Gold Wing rear end failures, that it makes me wonder how many of these well-intentioned owners may have caused the failure themselves. It could be the shops doing tire installations or other maintenance. The super lubricant properties in anti-seize allow the unwitting well intentioned mechanic to put far more pressure on components than they were designed for. Car manufacturers even caution owners to not put oil on lug nut threads. They don't say why, but I'm fairly positive this is the reason. If you're reading this Fred, what are your comments?

 

[cycledude]

dry and 80 pounds works fine for me, never had any trouble getting them loose, never have seen any rust

 

[Ed Siemers]

This same discussion seems to pop up every year or so.

Applying antiseize or thread locking agent (locktite) has the same effect and requires reducing the torque. I too have seen the damage that can be done to a fastener (and the equipment being fastened) by using oil or antiseize.

 

[goldwing fan]

dry and 80 pounds works fine for me, never had any trouble getting them loose, never have seen any rust

Same here :thumbup:

 

[Nando]

I use a torque monitor systems. I just push the button on the digital display attached and overhanging from my helmet into my line of vision and bingo: 80lbs...I lose sight of the road for about several minutes because I am nearsighted and it takes a long time to focus on
that '8-0'...however, once I get my eyes back on the road I am never farther than a couple of lanes away and its easy to get back.

To me, it is real peace of mind to know the that torque at will.

 

[5Ross]

i follow Fred's advice

I respect alot of what Fred says as well as anybody on here, but I also believe the Honda engineers have a good reason to say 80# for torque and I would not advise anyone to change that. JMHO...

They know the type of steel vs job at hand and how much should work.

I have never used any antiseize on my rear wheel and never had any trouble getting them loose. Right tool for right job works everytime...

 

[dreamer]

For those of you that are naysayers on using anti seize, would you also say the same for using it on spark plugs?

Or using a thread locker(Locktite), on various fasteners? Because a thread locker is considered a wetting agent.

I am not saying you have to use it, it is a choice, but something to think about.

Some people make the mistake of not tightening the lugs in a star pattern and increasing the ftlbs in stages. Also you should never put anti seize on the bottom of the lug nut.

Just because others have done it does not mean it is wrong, and it also does not mean you should do it. LOL

 

[DrtiBird]

For those of you that are naysayers on using anti seize, would you also say the same for using it on spark plugs?

Or using a thread locker(Locktite), on various fasteners? Because a thread locker is considered a wetting agent.

I am not saying you have to use it, it is a choice, but something to think about.

Some people make the mistake of not tightening the lugs in a star pattern and increasing the ftlbs in stages. Also you should never put anti seize on the bottom of the lug nut.

Just because others have done it does not mean it is wrong, and it also does not mean you should do it. LOL

As I recall my '01 Harley manual called for anti-seize compound on the spark plug threads due to the diff metal types (steel plugs/alum heads). I also believe that when the mfg calls for loc-tite or anti-seize they adj the torque specs accordingly. JMHO

I, too stick with the mfg specs of 80 lbs ft. No probs getting them on or off using the longer torque wrench for leverage. :thumbup: