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Discussion Starter #1
So I finally put my harbor freight tire changer and mojo lever bar to work and have changed out the tires on my 2015 goldwing.

Due to the way the rear wheel is mounted I am having a hard time tightening the lug nuts to 80ft lbs (or I have way over tightened it and am not hearing the clocks on the torque wrench). I assume 80 ft lbs is a fair bit of effort and I just don't think I have tightened the bolts enough but I can't get the leverage I need with just the torque wrench.

I am thinking of getting a piece of steel pipe to use as a cheater bar on the torque wrench.

Am I doing this wrong? Is 80 ftlbs pretty hard to do on a goldwing on the center stand ?

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Discussion Starter #4
Just need to have the tire on the ground so the wheel doesn't turn while you're torquing it. 80lbs isn't a whole lot and ya shouldn't need a breaker bar to do that.
I'm putting it in gear so it won't turn.. Maybe I just didn't hear the torque wrench click noise

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Discussion Starter #7
If it's a HF torque wrench, make sure that little screw at the bottom is tight. Also, grab a different socket and attack your cage wheels. Get a feel for what it feels like.
It is a HF wrench, I'll try it on the car as you suggested.. I broke some bolts when I tried it on the front calipers at 23ft/lb..just never heard or felt the click.. So I went way over and snapped a bolt.

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If you're breaking bolts @ 23 ft./lbs. somethings wrong! Loosen that screw, set your desired torque, tighten said screw, and wrench away.
 

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I read somewhere it's not recommended to put it in gear, but I don't know if that's reasonable caution or not.
 

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If I were you, I would test that HF wrench to see if its on spec before you strip or break any bolts. Easy to do...Google/Youtube is your friend (torque wrench calibration)
 

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The post I read indicated that it would put undue strain on the drivetrain, but I can't imagine it given the forces normally in play. The Service Manual does instruct you to loosen and tighten the lug nuts with the wheel on the ground and the rear brake applies.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
How would you apply the rear brake.. I can't visualize how I have the rear wheel on the ground if it's on the center stand or a lift..if it's on the side stand you can't even get in there to access the lug nuts and all this while applying the rear brake?

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I just did mine from the side stand, and I was able to access all of the lug nuts, and I did not need to apply the rear brake.
 

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My HF torque wrench doesn't "click" when used, just a soft, over center feel as it reaches correct torque.
 
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Discussion Starter #16
I just did mine from the side stand, and I was able to access all of the lug nuts, and I did not need to apply the rear brake.
There's so little clearance between the exhaust and the ground with it leaned over, kudos to you but I don't see how that works.. Did you remove the rear fender? I'm bumping into things all over the place that limit my range of motion

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Yes, without a lift removing the rear wheel requires either removing the rear fender or laying the bike over, either way you have access to all the lug nuts.
 

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There's so little clearance between the exhaust and the ground with it leaned over, kudos to you but I don't see how that works.. Did you remove the rear fender? I'm bumping into things all over the place that limit my range of motion

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Lay it over on the right side, deploy the center stand to hold it up a little higher, and there is plenty of room. You Tube has many videos. You can put in gear to hold it, out of gear to rotate. Takes 5 minutes.
 

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As mentioned, 1/2" drive with longer handle, 6 point socket has worked for me. Tried with a shorter handle and it is not as easy.
 

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Pipe is what I’ve used to get leverage with the breaker bar. 1/2” socket. Put anti-seize on the studs for next time...
 
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