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A few posts back someone mentioned that the design of running full current through the fog light switch was a bad idea. It is cold, rainy and I have the top of the bike opened up. Now is the time to correct this. Any suggestions installing a relay.

PS. Jon - I made up a 4 pin connector last night and the garage door opener is truly plug n play now. Thanks again.
 

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I'm glad that you were able to finish up the GDO controller installation "properly". I love it when the connections are clean, no wires have to be cut and the fact that it can be returned to factory OEM state in a matter of seconds. :D

Now, as to the wiring of your fog lamps, I'd have to recommend the harness from E/C. I believe that this harness picks up and interrupts the power feed for the OEM fog lights, feeds the existing relay(?), fuses the voltage for the foglights (isolating it from the running lights, meter and turn signals), runs this to the OEM switch, back out of the switch to the relay, allows for high or low beam operation - all for $25.

I'm obviously not affiliated with his company (and LOVE TO BUILD STUFF MYSELF), but sometimes it's a better choice to buy the original.

Obviously, this is just my opinion and I'm not just spewing the "vendor's line" - I honestly think this is the easiest solution to this problem.
 

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You can buy an automotive relay at Radio Shack to do this. You use 4 connections all labled on the relay but will have one extra for open when coil is energized, you will use closed when coil is energized. A wire from the battery connects to one of the contact terminals and a wire to the lights connects to the other. Connect the hot wire from your switch or high/low beams to the relay coil and connect the other coil contact to ground.

The coil is energized and the relay contacts close, with the contacts closed electricity flows to the lights.

Most people use a general purpose diode rated over 25 volts whenever they use a relay. Honda did this with every relay on your bike. You put it backwards across the coil of the relay so that when the electricity is removed from the coil it goes to ground instead of through your circuit, this protects your lights from a large voltage surge, that little coil dumps about 5000 volts for millisecond in all directions in the circuit, it will destroy a lot of IC's but probalbly wont hurt your lights, just shorten their life by some percentage.
 

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dont feel bad fortsand..he lost me too :D . I'm just going to order the harness from Lewis.
 

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Jon warns "You'd better throw a fuse in there or there's going to be trouble... "

and I suggest that you drive the aux lamp relay from your headlight relay (so lights will drop out when starter or reverse is energized) or accessory terminal (that is switched with the ignition) rather than a circuit that is on all the time.
 

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fog lights

:twisted: Fog Lights from Wal-Mart 39.95
L shaped bracket from Lowes 6.95
Building your own for less than $50.00 Priceless
 
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