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Discussion Starter #1
I have an o8 wing with just 3800 miles on it. I keep losing my cruise and brakelights because the bulbs in the lower right keep shorting internally causing the cruise and brake system to think I have my foot on the brakes.

The shop tested it a few days ago and said the bulbs were failing. What is strange to me is it is always on the right lower. Doing a vtom resistance/short check in a a few minutes.

All suggestions appreciated.:thumbup:
 

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My Avalanche does "sense" the brake lights and cruise would die when I had my trailer hooked up because a critter had gotten into the channel and chewed the brake wires so they shorted. But that's different. Unless something has changed on the '08 from prior years, I believe the cruise does not "sense" the brake lights, but works off of separate switches on your levers, throttle and pedal.

As for the short..... defective bulbs? That's a new one. Run without bulbs on that side and see.
 

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Works correctly with out a bulb

Waldo... I've been thinking about changing my slacks, shirt & tie to a tuxedo. If you ride wearing what your wearing in the picture... my SO and I like your style.

Anyway I digress... I have changed all my rear stanley bulbs to expensive LEDs to lighten the load on the battery and alternator and for the fact these particular LEDs are about 30 percent brighter and the light is more crisp in the off on category when applying the brakes. I've got 10 of these installed when you count the running and signals. The right lower brake/running is the only one having a problem. I can go back to the stanley and it is fine. Huge power draw with the stanley, 26 watts total, My LEDs each draw 4.964 watts with more light emitted. I put a new LED in rode about 30 miles and it shorted internally, just like the first one. I've installed two in this socket and both lasted just about 30 miles. These are high quality 20 led super flux... not cheap by any meaning of the word... and I do mean expensive for a bulb, with shipping about 33 each.

I just had the second one short... and when the running light side shorts it bleeds power to the brake light side and the cruise control sees this current and will not engage because it thinks the brakes are being applied. I've done several hours of electrical schematic traceing on this problem. I use to repair electronics and computers. I'm thinking like you a bad "lot" or "run" of these bulbs or there is a short that when riding moves and grounds and shorts the bulb without blowing the fuse because of the low power draw by the LED. It puzzles me as to how.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Results of VTOM potential test

I checked the ground and supply wires on the right light. With the switch off... all three wires test grounded. Seeing this... I removed the left lower light and tested it... with the switch off... all three wires test grounded... Relay ??... I suspect the relay. Suggestions appreciated.
 
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Although the cruise system isn't connected to the brake lights and so cannot "sense" when the lights are on, it is connected to the brake light relay to achieve the same effect. The difference is that if the cruise module is "seeing" the brake lights, it's because of the relay not the bulbs. So the brake light relay would be a good place to start troubleshooting.

Another off-the-wall thought occurred to me... there are two different types of 7443 bulbs. The plain 7443 is used by everybody except Toyota - they use a 7443-SACK which has a common ground (three contact wires instead of four on the bulb base). Using one of those on a Gold Wing can cause all kinds of weird problems (please don't ask how I know that :oops: ).
 

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Although the cruise system isn't connected to the brake lights and so cannot "sense" when the lights are on, it is connected to the brake light relay to achieve the same effect. The difference is that if the cruise module is "seeing" the brake lights, it's because of the relay not the bulbs.
Not obvious in the schematic, hence the "I believe." Thanks for the heads up.

krb1945

Thanks, I did ride to that wedding (my son's, many of us rode) but the boutonnière was pinned on upon arrival.

At the risk of offending someone who has just complimented my style, mention of the LED conversion lamps in the OP would have been helpful. Information is power. Unlike the earlier and now quaint GL1800's with solid red lenses, the LED lamps would go well with the Euro style lenses on the '08.

Again - "I believe" that you can still use the HORN/CALL relay as a test relay, but I don't have drawings for the relay banks on the '08. Seems odd that only one side would go and how the relay would affect that only.:shrug:

Curious as to how you tested for ground. Ground will show even in hot wires unless they carry voltage, but usually not "0" ohms.

Here's how we stop the beeper on Valkyries using the brake light as "ground."

 

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Discussion Starter #7
Bulb socket ground test.

I've been out of the loop for a month now undergoing some med treatments and haven't had a chance to do any more testing. Getting back on my feet now and trying to get things ready to ride.

Apologies to all... I thought I had mentioned I had changed to LEDs on the rear of my 08 wing. I did this to lower the power consumption load on the battery / alternator.

I am using the T20 wedge Super Flux 7443 red LEDs from LEDLight.com on the brake/running lights. When I test for ground on the right lower brake/running light socket I use this procedure.

I hook the ground from the volt ohm meter to the frame... then I take the bulb out of the right socket... set the meter on ohms.. touch the positive probe on the green ground wire and circuit is complete as it should be.:thumbup:

Then using the same procedure I check the brake light side of the connector and it shows a short or completed circuit with the key off...:confused: I believe the circuit should show open with the key off.

I think it would show volts or a completed circuit with the key on... put the meter on DC volts for the key on test or you may damage your test instrument.

I get the same results with the running light side of the bulb socket. The socket indicates grounded with the key off.

I'm not up to speed on the way these relays work but it seems that I have a ground on the brake and running light hot wires. Does this relay have all wires grounded with the key in the off position? When I use the regular stanley bulbs that came in the motorcycle there are no malfunctions or faults on the lower right side. I am thinking about unplugging the wires from the bulb socket and testing the wires without the connector to see if the connector is shorted internally. A fellow at auto parts told me they had received a bunch of sockets that were faulty so I guess that is a possibility.

As stated in an earlier post... I am only having a problem with the right lower socket burning the brake/running bulbs out which creates a fault on the cruise and brake light operation. Also I am using the resistors on the rear flasher circuit to make the turn signals flash at the normal rate.

All help is appreciated by this ancient warrior.
 
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