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Old thread here, http://gl1800riders.com/forums/5-gl1800-tech-board/207679-brake-fluid-change-procedure.html, one of many like it, but I can't find the next level of detail.
I have a vague idea of loosening it, squeezing the lever, watching brake fluid ooze out, tightening it, and trying not to have the juice go everywhere and kill paint or seals. It's not a proper bleed valve. What is the method and end state?
Is there any more art or science to it? Very clear WHERE steps 6 & 7 are, just not WHAT they are.
This "pressure bleed" of the hose fitting / banjo bolt / NOT BLEEDER VALVE -- can someone describe to me what you're actually doing here?Copied from another thread asking the same question:
BrakeBleeding Sequence
Front Brake Reservoir
1: Front Right Brake Upper Bleeder Valve
2: Front Left Brake Middle/lower Bleeder Valve
Rear Reservoir (under right side chrome)
1: Front Left Brake Upper Bleeder Valve
2: Front Right Brake Lower Bleeder Valve
3: Rear Brake Lower Bleeder Valve
4: Anti-Dive: bleeder valve on top
5: Rear Brake Upper Bleeder Valve
Do these two additional Steps to be sure you have no residual air bubble in the rear system!!
6: Pressure bleeding the lower Junction block. (Upper left side of frame sitting on bike).Follow rubber hose from Secondary master cyl to the Junction block.
7) Pressure Bleed the top Banjo bolt on the Secondary Master Cyl. (To be sure the air bubble is completely out)
Must be done in this order and do not let the resevior go dry and suck air.
I have a vague idea of loosening it, squeezing the lever, watching brake fluid ooze out, tightening it, and trying not to have the juice go everywhere and kill paint or seals. It's not a proper bleed valve. What is the method and end state?
Is there any more art or science to it? Very clear WHERE steps 6 & 7 are, just not WHAT they are.