[kbach]

Okay, so I understand why Mother Honda says once and done. I trying to reuse them and one broke. I've ordered new bolts from Hal. Order new ones for the ABS ring too. I took the rotors off to have the rims powder coated.

Question is on removal of the broken bolt. I have about 1/8 inch of bolt exposed. Should I apply a little heat before trying to remove. I think vise grips will work on removal.

 

[Murgie]

Unless that bolt was corroded, I am going to say it will be fairly easy to remove. I would take a small cold chisel and use it to tap it out. Just tap at an angle that will counter-turn the screw. If it is below flush, grind a center punch to make a very small chisel.

Good luck!

 

[hunzee]

You should be able to grab it with anything and turn it out. If you buggered the aluminum threads in the wheel, I would suggest putting in a helicoil insert.

 

[Clint Knotts]

If it broke off while tightening up it should come back out easy,and if the powder coat is done it could get damaged if heat is applied.It could be drilled out if nothing else works.I have always reused mine and have not had any problems.They have been off 5 or 6 times. Good luck with the removal of the broken bolt.

 

[Larry Price]

I hope you cleaned out each hole with a tap before trying to mount up the rotors and ring.....

 

[hunzee]

I screwed some bolts in all the holes before I sent them to be painted.

 

[Bulldog]

You might want to try and score a line through the exposed portion of the bolt. Then use a large standard screw driver and try and twist it out. Don't forget, that some times they will come out better if you tighten just a little and then loosen. Repeat steps if it moves, as this will clean the threads a bit. A reverse cut twist drill bit in a reverse direction might be a thought as well. Don't bugger the threads up!

Good Luck!

Bulldog

 

[Roadie]

I've had three rotor bolts snap. Honda says to replace when ever they are removed. My rotor bolts lasted for three tire changes and then the last time they just snapped when trying to tighten then to the correct torque...anyways when I removed the rotor from the wheel the broken bolts unscrewed easily by hand from the wheel.

 

[Big Wes]

Sears sell some bolt extractors that work well $19.95

 

[GWNorman1800]

I would try the vicegrips with not too much pressure, before resorting to buying tools or drilling.

 

[Pigeon Roost]

Unless there is powder coat in the threads, the broken stub should be loose and turn out with finger pressure. Good luck. I keep spares on hand for just such occasions.

prs

 

[captcarl]

If it turns out to be really tough to get out try this..
Place a nut larger then the bolt shaft over the exposed end and have it welded onto the broken stud that is sticking up . Then remove the thing using a wrench while its still hot from the weld...

 

[Clint Knotts]

I have also had luck using tap-free on stuck bolts.I don't know why it works,but it dose.I use to do alot of stainless steel work and the stainless bolts would gawd and if forced they would break off,put a little tap-free on them and work them back and forth and they would come right out.

 

[kbach]

Well...it's out. I couldn't get a hold of it with vice grips. Tried the notch trick with a screw driver. Ended up filing it flat, drilling and using a ez-out. I'll need to pick up a tap and clean is out. Anyone have the size and pitch for these bolt holes?

 

[kbach]

Bolt hole size is 6mm by 1 pitch. Bought a tap and found that the treads had been striped out beyond repair. I ended up having to buy an insert, drilling and taping to install. What a deal.....

At any rate, everythings back together and I got to ride around a little today since it was up to 40 degrees today.

 

[Digger]

I have also had luck using tap-free on stuck bolts.I don't know why it works,but it dose.I use to do alot of stainless steel work and the stainless bolts would gawd and if forced they would break off,put a little tap-free on them and work them back and forth and they would come right out.

Hi Clint,

What is "tap-free?"

Is this a product I should know about?

TIA!

 

[Digger]

Okay, so I understand why Mother Honda says once and done. I trying to reuse them and one broke.....

Sorry to hear that.

Just one more reason I've remained a Luddite regarding the big tire-removing bars. I've managed to stick with old-fashioned tire irons.

The problem is, you gotta be clever to change these tires with tire irons.....and sometimes I'm not very!

 

[Guest]

When I removed my front tire to have the tire replaced and put it back on I torqued all bolts except the ones on the rotors. I tightened them by hand and used loctite. Glad I did. Lots a good info in this thread.

 

[Turbine surgeon]

My installer doesn't require the rotors be removed.

But the post about tapping out the holes before reinstalling the bolt is right on.

The red loctite used on those bolt is "High Strength". That stuff is an ester based adhesive that fills up the "clearance" between the bolt and the threads. If you don't clean the bolt and tap the holes you are looking for trouble.

There is a lot of numbers on loctite, but the rule of thumb is.........

Red..............High Strength

Blue.............Medium Strength

Pink............For frequently removed bolts (light duty)

 

[Waldo]

Hi Clint,

What is "tap-free?"

Is this a product I should know about?

TIA!

It's more or less, anti-sieze. It keeps dissimilar metals from locking up at the threads.

(I think)