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Discussion Starter #1
Folks,

What's the best way to route power and audio cables from the inside of left fairing pocket.

I'm mounting a portable Garmin GPS on a RAM mount on my left handlebar. The power and the audio cords for it are both inside the left fairing pocket.

There is a pretty sharp knife-edge and gasket sealing arrangement under the entire circumference of the left fairing pocket cover, so you can't route a cable from inside and then shut the pocket cover.

I'm guessing I have to cut out a portion of that knife edge to get my two cables out and be able to shut the cover.

I'll bet some of you have dealt with this issue before me!

Please let me know what clever ways you came up with to solve this problem.

Thanks!
 

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What I do is route them by following a frame rail forward to in front of the steering head bearing and then bring them back and up then on the under-side of the handle bars. Remove that cover and route them in there. Once you start routing them backwards, make sure there is enough slack for a full handle bar sweep from side to side ... double check it ... triple check it. They should not rub on anything.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
What I do is route them by following a frame rail forward to in front of the steering head bearing and then bring them back and up then on the under-side of the handle bars.
Greg,

I don't follow how you intend the get the cables OUT of the fairing pocket in order to be able to route them to the steering head and then under the handle bars.

Are you saying to punch a hole in the side of the fairing pocket INSIDE the pocket to get them out?

Thanks!
 

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Use a rat tail file and make a U notch in the bottom of the pocket box. Make the notch on the bottom so in a heavy rain it does not leak. That is what the knife edge is for. To keep the contents of the box dry.

Other than that, what Greg said.
 

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I drilled a hole on the top of the door and installed a marine type plug and cover. I fish the wires out the hole and if it should rain, I put the wires back and close the cover keeping everything dry..
 

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Use a rat tail file and make a U notch in the bottom of the pocket box. Make the notch on the bottom so in a heavy rain it does not leak. That is what the knife edge is for. To keep the contents of the box dry.

Other than that, what Greg said.
Thanks Kit ... and do like Kit says too. Drill, notch, or file to make or enlarge the whole already there.
 

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The power and audio cables all originate under the left pocket the audio will pull back under through the hole if you remove the grommet.

If you have a power outlet in the pocket just remove it and relocate it under the pocket or hard wire the Garmin supply and retain the outlet for another item.

Route the cables towards the rear of the bike follow the trim around the steering well towards the frame headstock remove the ignition key surround and speedo/speaker surround, you can then jump the very short distance from the frame to the top of the triple tree and follow the OEM cables up the back of the handlebar, replace the speaker trim to hide the cable

We find this way give less chance of snagging cables and the least movement in cables when the steering moves while giving 100% concealment of the installation.
 

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Wingman, I would like to take a step back from the other good comments here to maybe help solve some confusion.

From your description, it sounds like you are trying to run the wires up out of the pocket directly to your GPS. I have seen people do this before, and it is very dangerous. One owner wanted me to install a cigarette lighter socket in the right hand panel so that he could plug his GPS in. I refused to do it. He actually got pretty upset with me.

For a device that is mounted on your handlebars, there should not be any wiring in your left pocket. All of the wiring should be UNDER the pocket, and run up along the underside of the instrument cluster. There is a stiffening bar there where the cables can be tire wrapped so that they don't get snagged by the steering head.

Run the wire along that stiffening bar to the center pivot of the steering head. This will allow the steering to turn while twisting and bending the wires the least amount possible. Leave just enough slack for the steering to turn, but not so much that it can snag the steering head. Then run the wires up under the plastic steering head cover and up the handlebars.

This is probably more involved than you had hoped for, and does take some time. But it really is the only correct way to do it, and you should take extra care when doing any wiring around the handlebars. It's your life you are protecting. You will have to remove the instrument panel cover so that you can see what you are doing.

One trick that race car builders use is to coil the wire where it has to flex at the steering pivot. Do this before installing by wrapping a short section of the wire around something like a screwdriver. If the wire has enough stiffness, it will retain the coil shape. If it doesn't hold its shape, what I have done is put that section of wire in some boiling water for a couple of minutes. Pull it out and coil it up until the insulation cools down.

There should never be anything hanging off of your handlebars that can get snagged on something.
 

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WM71,
I agree with Larry. I have my Garmin GPS mounted on my left handlebar and wired back into the left pocket cavity underneath the actual lift out pocket. I do have the aux in connection inside the lift out pocket for convenience. That is the male stereo jack(to the bike audio wiring) and the female stereo plug (to the Garmin unit) are both inside the lift out pocket connected together. That way if I want to use another audio source I just unplug the two and insert the "aux in" male jack into the new audio source.
The power connector from the Garmin unit is wired to the power connector underneath the lift out pocket. It is plugged into the same bike Hitachi type power connection that the cigarette lighter plug to. I don't use the male cigarette lighter connector(like you would use in your car), the one with the traffic receiver built in to.
I hope that this makes some sense. Garmin makes a hard wired cable harness just for this application and using it makes the job easier and more logical. I only use the Garmin factory cigarette lighter cable when I'm in a four wheeler.
Bill
 

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When I did mine I connected the power outlet and left it under the pocket, I did not drill the pocket. I was only going to use that connection for a GPS so I had no need to access it for another accessory. Doing that left me more room in the pocket. Then from sitting on the bike I ran the wire to the front right side of the pocket, out and up to the handlebar and to the GPS unit.
In this picture you can see the black power wire going towards the right side of the pocket



Once you feed it under the inner fairing and up the handlebar it will look like this
 

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Discussion Starter #11
THANKS EVERYONE for your help ! ! ! :bow:

See... that's what this forum is all about... keeping you from making some bone-head mistake! :eek:4:

I will take my left-side pocket box out and run my cables from under the box and finishing up under the handlebar as everyone has suggested.

Thanks again.
 

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I agree with Larry M but that is not what I did. I just cut a little notch in that sharp edge around the opening and ran the wires out, over to the the handlebar steering pivot then up along the handlebar to my Ram mount. It is perfectly safe, there is no binding or restriction, just looks like crap. But it has worked for over five years. Maybe when I get energetic, I'll do it proper.
 

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I agree with Larry M but that is not what I did. I just cut a little notch in that sharp edge around the opening and ran the wires out, over to the the handlebar steering pivot then up along the handlebar to my Ram mount. It is perfectly safe, there is no binding or restriction, just looks like crap. But it has worked for over five years. Maybe when I get energetic, I'll do it proper.
Exactly as I have been doing for the past 7 years. Used a rotary bur to cut a smooth notch in the door rim and then ran the audio and power cables through a protective sleeve up to the GPS mounted on the clutch master reservoir and left just enough slack for stop to stop steering travel. That said, Larry is a Pro installer and the next time I have the shelter off I will amend my evil ways and do it right.

prs
 

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If it a Zumo 665 or similar, you will not want to drill or cut a huge hole/notch. I removed my shelter and installed as shown below :thumbup:.
 

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Use a rat tail file and make a U notch in the bottom of the pocket box. Make the notch on the bottom so in a heavy rain it does not leak. That is what the knife edge is for. To keep the contents of the box dry.

Other than that, what Greg said.
That's what I did. The lid overlaps so even with a little filing, it's very water tight. It's a simple solution but works well.
 

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THANKS EVERYONE for your help ! ! ! :bow:

See... that's what this forum is all about... keeping you from making some bone-head mistake! :eek:4:

I will take my left-side pocket box out and run my cables from under the box and finishing up under the handlebar as everyone has suggested.

Thanks again.
Honda makes a cigarette lighter plug for the left pocket. The connection is already there under the box. Then you can plug your gps into the cigarette lighter and run it out of the box as Kit mentioned. Works great. The factory wiring for the lighter is only 2 amps however.
 

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Nice job Gatorwing. That is a bit different than most other installations that go over the top of the triple tree, and a good example of thinking outside the box.

I would have to see it in action, but from what I can see, I like it.
 

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Wingman, I would like to take a step back from the other good comments here to maybe help solve some confusion.

From your description, it sounds like you are trying to run the wires up out of the pocket directly to your GPS. I have seen people do this before, and it is very dangerous. One owner wanted me to install a cigarette lighter socket in the right hand panel so that he could plug his GPS in. I refused to do it. He actually got pretty upset with me.

For a device that is mounted on your handlebars, there should not be any wiring in your left pocket. All of the wiring should be UNDER the pocket, and run up along the underside of the instrument cluster. There is a stiffening bar there where the cables can be tire wrapped so that they don't get snagged by the steering head.

Run the wire along that stiffening bar to the center pivot of the steering head. This will allow the steering to turn while twisting and bending the wires the least amount possible. Leave just enough slack for the steering to turn, but not so much that it can snag the steering head. Then run the wires up under the plastic steering head cover and up the handlebars.

This is probably more involved than you had hoped for, and does take some time. But it really is the only correct way to do it, and you should take extra care when doing any wiring around the handlebars. It's your life you are protecting. You will have to remove the instrument panel cover so that you can see what you are doing.

One trick that race car builders use is to coil the wire where it has to flex at the steering pivot. Do this before installing by wrapping a short section of the wire around something like a screwdriver. If the wire has enough stiffness, it will retain the coil shape. If it doesn't hold its shape, what I have done is put that section of wire in some boiling water for a couple of minutes. Pull it out and coil it up until the insulation cools down.

There should never be anything hanging off of your handlebars that can get snagged on something.
Whats the best way to connect the power and ground wires for the GPS (Z660)? I have a OEM volt meter plugged into the red connector in the fairing under the left fairing pocket. I thought about tapping into the wires for the volt meter but thought that was not a good idea as 2 items would be pulling juice from the wires on the red plug. What are your thoughts on this dilemma?
 

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Dan, the Zumo wires are long enough to run them all the way back to the fuse box. Just attach the 12v and ground to the accessory screws.

The wires can be easily fished under and alongside the top shelter without removing it. If you do find it difficult, you can removed the 4 left side top shelter screws along with the nut down by the seat and lift it a little. It only takes an extra 10 minutes. (the seat would hav to be off to do that however.)
 

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Dan, the Zumo wires are long enough to run them all the way back to the fuse box. Just attach the 12v and ground to the accessory screws.

The wires can be easily fished alongside the top shelter without removing it. If you do find it difficult, you can removed the 4 left side top shelter screws along with the nut down by the seat and lift it a little. It only takes an extra 10 minutes. (the seat would hav to be off to do that however.)
I did the same thing never removed or damaged the box...wires fished right up and over the box..
 
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