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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I purchased the Sears lift but cannot figure out how to lift the 1800. If I put it in front of the center stand the balance is not right :( . If I try to put it under the center stand it is too tall to fit :( . Also the two arms of the jack are wider than the stand. I am sure someone has made an adapter and can help :?: :idea: .
 

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Sears Lift and bolt issue

The lift goes under the two centerstand mounts. This means you have to put the bike on the sidestand and then slide the lift under it. A 2x4 under the side stand will raise the bike enough to get the lift under it. Set the rear shock on 25, as this will help too.

After hearing about one Chineese made lift that collapsed when the bolts broke, I replaced all the bolts on my Sears lift with steel grade 10.9 metric bolts from

http://www.boltdepot.com

I ordered 8 metric M12x1.75x80 for the lift mechanism and 2 M12x1.75x120 for the connection from the hydrallic jack to the lift bar. I ordered all bolts in the strongest grade made (class 10.9 in metric which is equivelant to grade 8 in SAE).

Total cost, including shipping was $24.07.

More on this topic is here:

http://www.1800goldwing.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=676

http://www.1800goldwing.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=665
 

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Sears Lift

I own one of these, and am very pleased with its performance. Seems, though, that the 1800 is built a little close to the ground. I have to back the rear tire up onto a 1/4, which gives me enough clearance to get the jack under the bike. Then, I place the jack from the right side of the machine, so that one support arm is positioned at the center stand pivot. That balances the bike properly. If I am going to be doing very much to the bike with it up in the air, I strap it to the lift once everything is in position. Never had any unfortuante incidents that way.

RM
 

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Gentlemen,
I looked at the Sears motorcycle lift and I can't see how it would clear the Tulsa Belly Pan. Is it necessary to remove the pan first?
Thanks
 

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I, too, am concerned about crushing the Tulsa Belly Pan.

prs
 

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lift

There shouldn't be any problem, we use our Pit Bull lift all the time with the Belly Pan and no problem.
AllenTulsa
 

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OK?! So lets see if Ihave this right. Place the rearward lift arm under the pivot area of the cycle's center stand and then let the front one go where ever it goes -- which ya can't see if ya gots the belly pan. Could work for me so long as the coolent reservoir is not crushed. I sure hate crawling around on the cold floor to get to the rear tire's valve.

prs
 

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Just check that the ends of the stand are under something. There is only about an extra inch on both sides. Do not really raise the bike much, can still bend down on the floor, getting up is another story!!! My sears lift is probably just what I need, a lift once or twice a year. Considering a full bike lift if I can find the room in the garage. Always put the straps on the sears lift, cheap insurance $$$. Even if the belly pan gets a bend, who cares, it gets hit with a lot more abuse under there. Some body stated the removal of the rubber pads on the sears stand will allow it to fit underneath with no other boards. Enjoy, ride the bike, don't stare at it, other wise you should not have bought a GW !!LOL
 

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Rubber pads

Removing the rubber pads from the arms of my Sears lift might give a little more room to get the lift under the 1800, but I would not do that. The pads give me a little more confidence while all that weight and $$ is up in the air, that it will not slide around on the lift. I use my lift for cleaning the bike - thoroughly twice a year or so, as well as whatever maintenance I feel like tackling myself. I want to know that the bike will stay put! :) :D :)
 

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Re: Sears Lift and bolt issue

Fred H. said:
After hearing about one Chineese made lift that collapsed when the bolts broke, I replaced all the bolts on my Sears lift with steel grade 10.9 metric bolts from

http://www.boltdepot.com

I ordered 8 metric M12x1.75x80 for the lift mechanism and 2 M12x1.75x120 for the connection from the hydrallic jack to the lift bar. I ordered all bolts in the strongest grade made (class 10.9 in metric which is equivelant to grade 8 in SAE).

Total cost, including shipping was $24.07.
Got the new bolts from boltdepot.com and installed in the lift last week. Haven't had to use it yet. It certainly won't change the operation but it shouldn't break. Thanks for the link to boltdepot.com Fred.
 

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metric bolts for sears lift. Question for Fred H

Question for Fred H. I read on the other board you posted on that you wished you ordered (4) M 12x1.75x80 & (4) 12 x 1.75x90 & (2) m12x1.75x120 for the sears lift.
If I was to order, is this the size you would suggest?
 

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Lifting with the belly pan is not a problem. Well hasn't been for me so far. i generally ride the bike up on to 2 pieces of 3/4 inch plywood (one for each wheel). Put the kick stand on a 2X4 . That gives enough room to move the jack around so it's right where it needs to be and squared off to the bike.
 

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Boy, this post is an oldie! I discovered that getting the lift under the bike without a board under the side stand or tires is another positive of the rear 70 series tire. Slides right under teh GL1800. Now, getting teh VTX up on the stand is another story -- its even lower thatn the wing.

prs
 

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2X4 under the side stand, 1X4 under the rear tire, rear shock raised to 25 and I can work the lift under the center stand mounting bracket. After I lift the bike I put a regular floor jack under the front tire so it doesn't rock back and forth while working on it. I removed and replaced the rear wheel with no problems this way. Just my 2 cents worth. I like my new sears lift.
 

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So where do you tie the straps to on the bike?
 

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PelicanPilot said:
So where do you tie the straps to on the bike?
Me ... I go from the jack tie down in the front up through the front crash bar (same side) over the seat through the rear crash bar on the opposite side to the rear jack tie (same side as the rear crash bar pass through) this creates an "X" on the seat and wide anchor points to and from the motorcycle when both straps have been installed.
 

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I know its a lot of money(800-900 bucks with extra wide additions) but a full lift from western or other manufactor is worth its weight in gold. You can use them for a countless number of things like lawn mowers etc. And they are safe. Its like a lot of things after you get it you will cuss yourself out for not doing it years ago. I did.
 
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