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Just bought a new Wing and pulled off the seat just to "have a look around." Now, I'm an admitted mechanic klutz, but holy cow, I should be able to reinstall the seat I just took off!! After an hour of trying to line up the dang holes, I came in to cool off and thought I'd see if any of you all have any tried and true methods of lining up the holes to get the seat remounted. Thanks in advance.
PS - If the only suggestion is to pour a stiff drink and make the best of it, I'm already on it -- Thanks
 

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It's much easier (especially for a 1st timer) to remove the passenger backrest (2 screws inside the trunk) prior to installing the seat. Look on the underside of the seat and make sure the rubber washers/grommets (not sure of the correct term) are straight and not out-of-line with the holes in the seat. Grasp the seat and point the nose slightly downward. The 2 plastic tabs on the front of the seat should slid under the top shelter near the gas cap door. Then lower the rear of the seat. If you didn't remove the passenger backrest you will need to pull the cushion at the rear of the seat outward from beneath the backrest. Look at the sides of the seat at the bolt area. The seat should set down and appear to be sitting on the top of the battery cover tupperware. If not jiggle the seat until it settles into place. If it won't, raise the rear of the seat and make sure the rubber washers are still lined-up with the bolt holes in the seat. Put the grab handle against the seat and screw in the bolt. It may take a couple of tries but it will go. NOTE: This is one of those things that get much easier the more you do it. Also, if those tabs at the front of the seat are not under the top shelter you will never get the bolts in so be sure to check.
 

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I put seat in place, look at the holes with a light to see how things are lined up. I normally end up pushing the seat down and forward while rotasting the seat bolts to ge them started. Start with the back on one side, do the front on the same side. Just start them. Go to the othe rside and do the same thing. Once all four have started, run them in all the way.
 

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This is what I do...use a light at align hole while applying slight downward pressure on seat.

I also put one bolt in each side first WITHOUT the handle. Then I start the second screw in each side WITH the handle. Then remove the first screw and swing handle up and reinsert with handle in place.

Finally, I evenly tighten. You don't need a lot of final tightness...you don't want to strip. Just past snug is fine.
 

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When the seat is off glue the large rubber grommets to the seat so they can't move around. Make sure the front is slipped under the top shelter. Use a flashlight to see if the bolt hoes are lined up. Some times one side will be way high and I have to take the seat off and put on again until it seats itself. Using the flashlight you can determine which way to push on the seat while starting the bolt. Neverseize helps. I also use a socket allen wrench and use a 9" extension bar to start the bolt. Makes it easier to wiggle the bolt around to get it started. Take you time and DON"T cross thread it. The seat should be easy to put on, if it continues to be a problem make sure all the wiring under the seat is down in place and not wedged under the seat.
 

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Make sure the grommets are in there and also use a #2 phillips screwdriver to line up the threads. Start both bolts by hand and do not cross thread. It is not that hard.
 

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It is extremely important that the plastic tabs on the front of the seat connect under the front center tank and ALSO seat under the gas tank bracket up front...two places to seat the two sets of tabs...
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks very much for the tips. The front clips were aligned and under the lip, but my guess (based on your inputs) is that the grommets might be the gremlins. Thanks again & I'll be attacking this first thing tomorrow morning. Have a great week-end all -- NN
 

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Get a cordless variable speed and variable torque drill/screwdriver. Cut off a long 6mm allen. Insert into the Jacobs Chuck (where the drill bit usually goes). Set speed to slow and torque to lowest setting. Run them in while wiggling the seat.

That's my method, but I have a 3/8 drive allen set (you should get one) and a 3/8 adapter bit for the drill.

It helps if you have a belt sander or bench grinder and can "round off" (taper) the ends of the bolts. Somehow, Honda never heard of "starter threads." I only tighten them with the lightest setting on the drill. No need for massive amounts of torque.

Might wanna get a M8 x 1.25 tap ..... you'll need it eventually no matter what method you do use.

As a footnote, for Christmas last I got a Makita LCT203W 10.5 volt driver set. One's a driver , the other an IMPACT! The driver will run 4" deck screws into framing lumber for 3 hours on a charge. The impact will get off some frozen screws if you don't have air tools. Picked mine up refurbed for $130.00 from Tool King and they barely weigh 2 pounds.
 

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I put seat in place, look at the holes with a light to see how things are lined up. I normally end up pushing the seat down and forward while rotasting the seat bolts to ge them started. Start with the back on one side, do the front on the same side. Just start them. Go to the othe rside and do the same thing. Once all four have started, run them in all the way.
what i do. makes it easy :bow::bow::bow:
 

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I use a wooden dowel to align the holes instead of a screwdriver. I don't feel so bad if I have to push or pull to align the holes
 

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I put seat in place, look at the holes with a light to see how things are lined up. I normally end up pushing the seat down and forward while rotasting the seat bolts to ge them started. Start with the back on one side, do the front on the same side. Just start them. Go to the othe rside and do the same thing. Once all four have started, run them in all the way.
Exactly what I do. The only addition is I add a very small amount of oil to the threads of the bolts.
 

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WHen I first got my bike I ran a rethread die (backwards) up on each bolt and then tapered the ends of the bolts before removing the rethread die to corect any boogers I had ground upon the ends. Then I champhered the holes with 7/16' bit and ran a rethreading tap into each. Then I put a dib of antisieve on each boolt thread. Then I clipped the rubber bushings in per the design of them (which is not how they were when delivered to me -- if set in properly, they self retain. That made it easier by far. But....

...Then I got a new Big Boy seat set from Des at Ultimate and that cured any fumbling around with the seat. HIs design just goes together like you would not believe.

prs
 

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What I did to make it much easier was to silicone glue the rubber gromet's in place. That is one of the big problem's, the gromet's will move otherwise. Also I odered tapered seat bolt's from Chrome World. These 2 thing's made the instalation a much easier task. I never removed the back rest either.
Good luck, R.J.
 

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Seat Install

I struggled also every time I would take the seat off and then tried to put it back on the bike. I realized that it was difficult trying to get the end of the bolts started back into the holes on the frame. I considered buying replacement bolts from the mc vendors that have a tapered end as they would be easier to get into the holes. But they are about 25 bucks shipped and I am cheap and I also enjoy projects.

I took one of the original bolts down to the hardware store that carries metric bolts. I believe the correct thread size is m8x1.25 They are 70 cm long. These bolts are called "Cap Screws" as they have a end on them that need an allen wrench.

I bought a metric tap ($4) and a metric die ($4) and returned home. You could buy replacement bolts if you are nervous about doing this to your original bolts, they should cost about $1 each or less.

I took the die and ran it up on the bolt to the end of the threads. I then stepped to the bench grinder and tapered the threaded end. Once I had the end tapered like I wanted, I untheaded the die and it cleans the threads where you ground off the end of the bolt. You only need to grind off enough to obtain the tapered end, about 3/8 of an inch.

PIDGEON ROOST mentioned taking a drill bit and slightly starting it into the holes to taper the bolt hole. GREAT IDEA! Do that and then run the tap into the hole. This will clean the threads.

Now when I put the seat back on, I look into the holes to line up the holes the best I can and I put one of the tapered bolts into the seat handle in the back hole first or whichever one is lined up the closest to the hole. The tapered bolts make it so much easier. Ths worked for me and it was cheaper than buying the tapered bolts. Once you have the materials, it takes about thirty minutes.
 

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50wing made the statement that the bolts he replaced on his seat were 70cm long which would 27.5 inches long.

He should have said they were 70mm long which is 2.75 inches.

1 inch = 2.54 cm
1 inch = 25.45 mm

Jack
 

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In Tennessee I had some seat covers put on my Wing.. the guy that installed the seat covers used a "speed handle" .. I told him these bolts are always hard to put back in.. he laughed... he turned each bolt very carefully .. "BACKWARDS" until he felt them click... then he turned them clockwise and each one went in so easily... i tried it when I removed the seat.. and it did work great..

cosmic
 

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With the seat off I simply oiled the factory bolt and ran it into the threaded frame lugs as far as it would go then backed it out.
This seems to have cleaned the threads enough that I have not had any problems since.
 

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It helps if you have a belt sander or bench grinder and can "round off" (taper) the ends of the bolts. Somehow, Honda never heard of "starter threads." I only tighten them with the lightest setting on the drill. No need for massive amounts of torque.

Might wanna get a M8 x 1.25 tap ..... you'll need it eventually no matter what method you do use.

Tapering the ends is the sure fire way and the easiest by far. I don't have to look any more to check alignment. Start in easy, and don't cross.
 

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Just bought a new Wing and pulled off the seat just to "have a look around." Now, I'm an admitted mechanic klutz, but holy cow, I should be able to reinstall the seat I just took off!! After an hour of trying to line up the dang holes, I came in to cool off and thought I'd see if any of you all have any tried and true methods of lining up the holes to get the seat remounted. Thanks in advance.
PS - If the only suggestion is to pour a stiff drink and make the best of it, I'm already on it -- Thanks
Waldo said:
It helps if you have a belt sander or bench grinder and can "round off" (taper) the ends of the bolts....

Might wanna get a M8 x 1.25 tap ..... you'll need it eventually no matter what method you do use.
Roadhog,
In addition to Waldo's suggestions above to "round off" the end of the bolts, put a nut or die on the bolt before the taper to clean up the threads after the taper. Someone actually sells tapered bolts, but they're about $10 + shipping.

Next, also use a drill bit a few sizes larger that the bolts and round off those sharp edges on the bolt holes kinda like a very shallow counter-sink (bit size is not critical). After, run either a tap or seat bolt through the threads from the back (inside frame) to clean up the threads and remove any loc-tight or powder coating; use WD40 or other lube .

After doing the above, I have not had any problems starting my seat bolts. :thumbup: :thumbup:

Good Luck!
 
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