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I'd like to move toward suspension improvements on my '08 level 4 with 7K on the odometer. Correcting the "noodlie" feel of low speed manuvering is my first objective. I know there are many who will recommend the full monte but that's not how I roll. Give it to me a step at a time please!
 

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The only way to tighten up the front end's "noodly" feeling is a fork brace. It made a BIG change in the feeling of mine. I then alter did the entire suspension upgrades.
 

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Fork brace, Alls Balls bearings, Kumho RF rear tire (help stop the wobble . . . hehe!) and then the Full Monty . . . if needed! Good luck! :thumbup:
 

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I just took my first step at upgrading on my 07. Had the forks rebuilt and traxxion springs installed at Midwest Custom cyclework. Made a big difference and I'm very happy with it. My next step will be a fork brace, and then maybe a new rear spring.

Fred
 

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I did mine in the following order:

1.front Progressive fork springs
2.All balls bearings
3.Traxxion fork brace
4.Centramatic balancers

5 will probably be the Traxxion triple tree:excited:

Just with the 4 things I did there is a big difference in how it rides & handles from when I first got it.
 

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My set up . Fork brace , race tech valves , hyperpro springs . And yes i have used traxxion, race tech , progressive springs . For me hyperpro give the best of all
 

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New springs and/or a brace are fairly easy to install. All Balls or new dampers require the forks to be removed from the bike. If you decide to do either of the latter you might as well do both at that time.

Pete
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I did mine in the following order:

1.front Progressive fork springs
2.All balls bearings
3.Traxxion fork brace
4.Centramatic balancers

5 will probably be the Traxxion triple tree:excited:

Just with the 4 things I did there is a big difference in how it rides & handles from when I first got it.
Just got off the Traxxion site. Watched the video re: OEM fork short comings great info. and it makes good sense to me. I believe my '82 400 Can Am used a damping rod in one fork! So were on old school forks I guess. Looks like Traxxion doesn't have an air bag fork brace. Are there other options to Kury.?
 

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#1 - Traxx-Rite triple clamp...comes with AllBalls tapered bearings.
#2 - Traxxion or Race Tech straight wound springs for your weight and riding style - Disconnect the anti-dive - change fork oil and make sure levels are properly set.

*The Traxx-Rite install REALLY tightens up the front end. NO NOODLE NOSE

**A Kury Gen II fork brace would be a great addition, but you said you have a level 4 air bag model...investigate to see if a brace has yet been modified for the air bag sensor mount.

#3 - I can't comment on the Race Tech internal valves as I have not ridden a bike so equipped, but can say the AK20 kit does make for a really nice set up.

#4 - Rear shock/spring replacement

#5 - Fresh tires
 

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I added a fork brace recently and it certainly helps the "noodley" feel on tight parking lot U-turns. If you did nothing else, that will probably fix your specific problem. Although I got lucky and the one piece brace did not bind my forks (like everyone on this boards warns against), I would recommend that you get a multi-piece brace that can be adjusted to match the exact spacing of your forks. Can't remember which brands are recommened but you can search this board for that answer using "fork brace" as your search criteria (I'm not going to do all the work for you).

If that does not provide enough improvement for you, I would suggest you try the Race-Tech (R/T) Gold Cartridge emulators. I installed this kit on both my 1989 GL-1500 and my 2005 GL-1800A (ABS but nothing else). On my 1989, I would experience a corkscrew twisting affect around the longitudinal axis of the bike (think of a line drawn from between the headlights through the center of the bike to the brake lights) whenever I tore through a high speed downhill sweeping turn and a mid corner bump upset the suspension. Not sure why the R/T upgrade fixed that problem but I never had it happen again (same turn, same speed) after the upgrade. My thought was that the R/T upgrade with stiffer springs brought the front suspension up off the bottom of its travel so it was better able to absorb road shock and bumps. The other thing the R/T upgrade did for me was to keep the front tire more in contact with the road whenever I hit a pothole. Before the R/T upgrade, when I was leaned over in a corner and hit a pothole, the tire would bounce out of the hole and skitter sideways before regaining traction (very unnerving). After the R/T upgrade, it felt like the tire was never out of contact with the road and the sideways skittering was non-existant. This allowed me to significantly improve my confidence level and take corners on marginal pavement at much higher speeds.

You can install the R/T upgrade yourself and the cost was less than $400 when I did the upgrade on my 2005 about two years ago. That included new seals, bushings, copper washers, fluid, and Race-Tech Gold Cartridge emulator kit. Do not start the upgrade unless you have all the other normal fork rebuild parts on hand. If you end up not needing new bushings, you just use them the next time you tear into the forks.

I recommend that you start the upgrade on Saturday AM and take breaks if you start getting flustered or irritated with your progress. Read all the instructions the night before you plan the project so you have a clear understanding of each step before you have to try to implement it. I will tell you up front that the instuctions are pretty crappy. They were written by the owner and he really knows his stuff but they are written for a professional motorcycle mechanic and not the typical Gold Wing ower.

The first time I put in the R/T kit it took me 6 hours over two days with someone helping me, mainly to cross check my work. The second R/T upgrade took me about 4 hours and I completed it in 1 day.
 

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Fork Brace
All Balls
Better front fork springs
Rear shock and better spring

Worked for me and and I would do it again.
 

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I would start with tightening up what you have. Torque the rear swing arm and steering hear bearings first. If you are not happy with that, change the steering head bearing to All-Balls. Tightening up what you have will make a big differance. Most do nothing with the rear, and spend lots $$ that help cover up looseness there. When you get that torqued, you swing arm will sequerly go up and down centered causing the bike will sit taller.
 

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I had a wobble at 8K miles - and decided when I had my filter changed at 12K to get the All Balls steering bearing installed. I was amazed at the difference it made - no more wobble and the front end seemed much tighter. I just upgraded to Traxxion springs and shock with 28K on the bike and rode bout 500 miles then did the fork brace. I do notice some difference with the fork brace in slow manuevers but not as much as the steering bearing change.
 
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