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Discussion Starter #1
Anybody see the shifter upgrade to get rid of the slop. There is also a modification to shorten the throw which F6Bs have - shorter arm. I noticed my 2014 F6B shifter feel was different from my 2014 F6C Valkyrie. When I installed my Torq Loopz I noticed the shifter allen screw had marks on it from removal and reinstall. Wondered about it but figured if not broken don’t worry. Now I know why. I looked up several pictures of the stock linkage and compared against this upgraded linkage. Mine was changed to this upgraded shifter.

http://www.dhsracing.com/GL-1800.htm
 

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I've removed 3 of those. 2 because the hime joints were seized, and recently because I cannot remember, but in my mind because of PM, since the only other 2 that I'd seen had hime joints seizing.

You are correct about looseness in the joints of an OEM shifter. The OEM one has slop, dry joints, that are protected with boot, bat are not to be lubed.
 

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DHS-Racing makes this kit. (Google is your friend.)

P/N DHS-11252-kit only Price $35.00 (shipping included).

I've had this on my bike now for well over 6 years and 40,000 miles.

No issues, I'm a happy camper with this product.
 

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I take it you "dont" have floorboards or would this help on shifts with heel / toe ? Iyop ?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
GoldWingrGreg, thanks for the feedback. Will keep a note of that in case the shifter gets stiff. I do have a belly pan on that might reduce crud buildup. I heard that the company did make a modification to the joints as early ones were pressed too much and causing binding.

UNCLEJOHN, the F6B did have floorboards on it when I got it last year with 6k miles. I didn’t realize the shifter was changed until I recently did TL which the lower side exhaust shield was off and I noticed the large shiny linkage that looked aftermarket. I had another 14 GW (Valkyrie) before and this one with the linkage felt better as in a tighter trans and not as sloppy. Never really thought any more of it than factory tolerances as the Valkyrie I had was bought new with 0 miles on her out of a crate.

On a side not, the F6B does handle better doe to a lower center of gravity by smaller wheels and fuel tank below the seat.
 

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I heard that the company did make a modification to the joints as early ones were pressed too much and causing binding.
That might easily explain the seizing. Thanks for the info.
 

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I have one of those and put on the engine side arm of a shorter version. I needed to lower the shift lever and wanted the shorten the throw to bring down the upper stopping point some more. The top stop is a full inch lower and the at rest stop is half an inch lower. Best modification since Traxxion in the front tubes. I also pulled off the OEM boots and installed them on the new linkage. The only hint of a give-away that I have done anything with the shift lever is not having to lift my foot off the peg during an up-shift. Everything is hidden behind those boots.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well Greg, you were right. My bike got stuck in 3rd gear and I eased over to the shoulder to see what the heck happened. The shifter was stiff and would not return without my input. I got her home and took off the lower exhaust shield to remove the linkage. Sure enough one of the joints was stiff even though it was clean and I couldn’t see any dirt. Ordered a new linkage OEM 24705-MCA-S40 for 12-17 models. Noticed this is different from part # 24705-MCA-000 for 01-10 models. They look similar but with different gear arm. The S40 has a steel gear arm with weld and the 000 has an aluminum arm. Wonder if there were issues and they changed material and design?

I've removed 3 of those. 2 because the hime joints were seized, and recently because I cannot remember, but in my mind because of PM, since the only other 2 that I'd seen had hime joints seizing.

You are correct about looseness in the joints of an OEM shifter. The OEM one has slop, dry joints, that are protected with boot, bat are not to be lubed.
 

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Well Greg, you were right. My bike got stuck in 3rd gear and I eased over to the shoulder to see what the heck happened. The shifter was stiff and would not return without my input. I got her home and took off the lower exhaust shield to remove the linkage. Sure enough one of the joints was stiff even though it was clean and I couldn’t see any dirt. Ordered a new linkage OEM 24705-MCA-S40 for 12-17 models. Noticed this is different from part # 24705-MCA-000 for 01-10 models. They look similar but with different gear arm. The S40 has a steel gear arm with weld and the 000 has an aluminum arm. Wonder if there were issues and they changed material and design?
If you look at the OEM shifter, it has loose, dry linkage. To me that means, that because of locations, a loose, dry joint is required. Or one that is positively sealed and protected. Which the DHS design is not, and it will for sure fail. It's just a matter of when.

How long did yours last ???
 

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I have the DHS shifter on my 07.

I also run a heel toe setup by Kury.

I have not had any issues with that linkage myself and will be looking to add one to the new 2016 I am picking up tomorrow.

Yous guys know something I do not?
 
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