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Hi folks, my friend has a 2003 that is hard to shift when he is stuck in traffic and the engine temperature goes up. It sounds like the clutch is not engaging fully and it grinds:eek:4:. We flushed his clutch with new fluid and it seems to work just fine at normal temperatures. He took it to a dealer today, and they told him they thought it might be the belly pan he installed. They think he might be boilling the oil and they changed his oil from Amsoil to Honda HP4.
I'm very sceptical because as you know from the many belly pan threards over time, nobody that I know of has had a heating problem due to a belly pan.
Where do we go from here?
 

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Hi folks, my friend has a 2003 that is hard to shift when he is stuck in traffic and the engine temperature goes up. It sounds like the clutch is not engaging fully and it grinds:eek:4:. We flushed his clutch with new fluid and it seems to work just fine at normal temperatures. He took it to a dealer today, and they told him they thought it might be the belly pan he installed. They think he might be boilling the oil and they changed his oil from Amsoil to Honda HP4.
I'm very sceptical because as you know from the many belly pan threards over time, nobody that I know of has had a heating problem due to a belly pan.
Where do we go from here?
I think you mean the clutch isn't disengaging. Boiling the engine oil??????????? Sounds like the brake fluid in the clutch system may be boiling. Did you use the proper DOT brake fluid?
 

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The "stealer" just took your friend for an oil change. The belly pan cannot cause the engine to over heat by itself because the engine is liquid cooled, and the two radiator fans will keep the temp within range. You never mentioned anything about the engine overheating, only that the tranny shifted hard (grinding) when the engine got hot (not overheated).

It sound like a clutch problem right off the bat, but some troubleshooting needs to be done to make sure. Make sure the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder are working correctly (check for air in the hydraulic line, etc.)

I would start with the clutch and work toward other components.
 

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Hi folks, my friend has a 2003 that is hard to shift when he is stuck in traffic and the engine temperature goes up. It sounds like the clutch is not engaging fully and it grinds:eek:4:. We flushed his clutch with new fluid and it seems to work just fine at normal temperatures. He took it to a dealer today, and they told him they thought it might be the belly pan he installed. They think he might be boilling the oil and they changed his oil from Amsoil to Honda HP4.
I'm very sceptical because as you know from the many belly pan threards over time, nobody that I know of has had a heating problem due to a belly pan.
Where do we go from here?
Has your friend changed his grips to thicker ones lately? Could someone have changed his adjustment at the clutch leaver. All clutches Grab better if warm due to expansion, to me it sounds like its out of adjustment or the slave cylinder may not be giving a full throw.
 

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I don't know what the problem is but I can assure you it is not the Belly pan
 

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I have a belly pan (the one w/o the vents) and last year I got the temp needle into the red for about a half hour before I could get moving enough to bring the needle down. When stopped it would cool on it's own. BUT my clutch worked fine the whole time. No problems in the stop-n-go traffic. I run Castrol GTX 20/50 for the summer and I had Engine Ice coolant. Also my clutch fluid was clear and good.

That was an expensive oil change to replace the Amsoil with HP4.
 

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Move the clutch lever adjusting dial to move the lever further away from the grip and re-test. Especially if he has larger than stock grips.
 

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And ask for my money back.
 

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Hog wash. :wrong: Find a decent dealer or shop and have the clutch serviced. Fluid and the pivot point. A bellypan won't hurt your wing. Engine oil doesn't boil easily, especially in a water cooled machine. As for the Amsoil, was it MC spacific or some other that would "work fine"?
Boiling point of engine oil is +/_300 to 370 degrees Celsius. Water boils at 100C. I would dare say you wouldn't be within many feet of an engine with boiling/degenerating oil. http://wiki.answers.com/Q/What_is_the_boiling_point_of_engine_oil That would be 570+ degerees F. Kinda warmish LOL

I hope you get it cleared soon. BTW, I have a belly pan and ride in stop and go traffic with LOTS of slow speeds in between when in Dallas. I don't do it on purpose, but have been cought several times and haven't had any mechanical problems. The nut holding the handle bars was pretty toasted mentally and from the heat. Air flow is your friend for sure.

Best wishes.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for your replies, he was definitely using motorcycle specific Amsoil. He is a good friend of the Amsoil Dealer in the area. He is not happy with the Honda dealer and is sourcing another. I don't believe there is air in the system.
 

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Could be, not sure, but the clutch on the 1800 is oil assisted . The oil flows from the back of the engine through the clutch cover through an hole that has an o ring seal on it. It assists in holding the clutch pressure plate and in the operation of the clutch.

I would suspect, or at least check to make sure that o ring is good and not pushed or nicked. Could be full pressure is not developing on the pressure plate.

As for that dealer...........:lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::joke::joke::popcorn::popcorn::tongue::tongue:

Slave cylinder could be sticking too. Kinda forgot about that one for a bit. That can cause that.
 

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Changing the clutch lever position is to adjust the distance of it from the grip for different size hands and has no affect on "clutch" adjustment at all:coffee1:
 

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I'll second what Kit said about the clutch. I have a 2003 with a belly pan and never had a problem until the clutch started acting a bit odd. Flushing the hydraulic fluid did away with problems. The gunk that came out of the system was amazing...
 

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Changing the clutch lever position is to adjust the distance of it from the grip for different size hands and has no affect on "clutch" adjustment at all:coffee1:
No entirely true.

If you have larger grips and the clutch set to the closest position it is possible to not disengage the clutch completely.

Also depending on the way you shift there is a diffence in gear clunk. In my case shifting is much smoother with the clutch set at the position furthest from the grip.
 
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