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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
On my way home we were stuck in line at the border for over an hour. Essentially the bike idled the whole time, The bar warmers were set on 3, but no other electronics were on. The fan ran a few times and I shut the bike off and restarted 12 (?) times. Near the end, the bike didn't start, no noise from the starter. I tried a second time and it caught after turning a few times (unusual). I kept the bike running and drove 100 miles home. There were no error or problem lights on the dash. Once home I shut it down and then restarted it, nothing unusual except the check engine light stayed on. Question 1, the engine light should have turned off right? (I know ABS stays on till you move). Providing I check the normal stuff, like fluids, is it advisable to ride the bike to the dealer which is 100 miles away. I will find out if my coverage from CAA and GWRRA cover towing in the case of a check engine light and i'll check with the dealer too. thanks for any advice.
 

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It depends on which code was set. Some codes are "soft" codes and the light will reset after a power off/on. Other codes are "hard" codes and the light will remain on until you go through the reset process. I would start by going through the process to read out the code to see what it is. Then you can decide if you want to just erase the codes and see if it comes back or take it to a dealership.
 

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It's easy for me to say, if it starts, I ride it. If the light is on, I disconnect the battery for a few minutes, reconnect, start and then observe and decide.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks.. service manager suggested I ride it is more likely related to battery not mechanical. He thinks it could be a sensor or requires a reset. I'll try your battery idea before I do the 1.5 hour ride at 37 deg.
 

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My bike did that with a dead cell in the battery.
All anomalous behavior went away when the new battery was installed.
The last time the battery pooed on itself the bike set almost every code imaginable. They were likely caused by low voltage. They reset the codes and I've not had a lick of trouble in 4,000 miles since the new battery. (Prior to the battery replacement I was seeing some odd behavior.)
 
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Thanks Fred, is the process you refer to in the owners manual or a service manual?

It's in the service manual, and I also have a video showing how to do it. You basically short two wires in the connector plug on the right side of the bike below the seat in a sequence with turning on the key.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Update and scary thought. The indicator that was on was the PGM-FI programmed fuel injection malfunction indicator. It lit on a restart after my trip on Sunday and still lit when I tried it again Monday morning.

Today when I started the bike to ride to the dealer, it was not lit. I decided to get it checked anyway. The codes indicated ISG MALFUNCTION - PRIMARY, but the diagnosis was an intermittent failure, as the light was no longer on. So no further work was done.

The scary part is the "how to proceed" suggestion from HOnda if the light was still on. It involved replacing the ISG and retesting, if the code came up again, then replace the ECM (now the instructions don't say what to do if the code still comes up after the ECM replacement). But if the code did NOT come up, then just replace the original ISG.

Why scary... the service reps told me the customer has to pay for these 2 parts in order to conduct the testing. Price ??? just shy of $4,000 Canadian.
 
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