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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
I am sorry to say but I do not have any manual:oops: I am going by the picture that was sent to me on this board.
 

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The reason Bartman says that is because it is almost imposible to plug back in unless you have access to the back side of the meter panel ... or coming in from the front side under the w-shield.

To get to that, the visor (black peice above dash and behind w-shield) has to come of. Which means the w-sheild and front garnishment (front painted peiece under w-shield).

Here are the steps.

1) remove speaker covers and invormatn panel.
2) pull back rubbers around mirrors for access to 10mm nuts
3) lift up on w-shield levers and remove those 10mm nuts
4) push mirrors forward and remove screw on each side holding visor
5) pull up on outer/lower garnishment corner on each side to release boss from rubber garmit
6) do the same to the most front center. that will take finger pain, there are 2 right in the center at the bottom of the garnishment. coninue to pull on gaps in between headlamp and RF lower corner. yes it is painfull on the fingers but the gromits will finally release.
7) rock garnishment up from the bottom center and reach up and remove phillips screw and black shield. then remove 8mm nut. pull ganshment free
8 )remover the black and hex screws to remove the w-shield (not the 1 center phillips). carefull, there may be plastic washers under them and remove the oval looking tin
9) remove all screws that hold visor in place and 2 plastic rivits. pay attention to how it attaches (snaps) to the front ferring at the bottom rear corners. when pulling free, carefully tuck the rubbers around w-shild levers through with out tearing the rubber attachment points.

when you reassemble, use a mixture of spray dish washer soap to tuck back in the rubbers around the mirrors. The 2 odd screws for the visor go center, bottom.

I hope that is correct ... it was from memory
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
To all of my riding brothers I want to thank you all for the great advise and wisdom you have shared with me. i have taken the bike with 103.000 to the dealer and they found the problem,it was a burnt out ground wire that had rubbed for some time.it was under the trunk.? So now it is all back together and it only cost me 348.00 now I say only because I was thinking because I was thinking the worst and hoping for the best,so I am happy that the bike is all proper now and I want to put a shout out there for the motorcycle tec that was able to repair this elecrtrical issue at Weymouth Honda in Ma.
 

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To all of my riding brothers I want to thank you all for the great advise and wisdom you have shared with me. i have taken the bike with 103.000 to the dealer and they found the problem,it was a burnt out ground wire that had rubbed for some time.it was under the trunk.? So now it is all back together and it only cost me 348.00 now I say only because I was thinking because I was thinking the worst and hoping for the best,so I am happy that the bike is all proper now and I want to put a shout out there for the motorcycle tec that was able to repair this elecrtrical issue at Weymouth Honda in Ma.


For $348.00 I hope they did a lot more than repair a burned-out ground wire.

Glad your bike is up and running correctly.
 

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I'm hijacking this thread, neither turn signal works on my 03 GL1800A, 4-ways and horn work, brake lights and cruise control works. I disconnected the canceling unit just to see what that would do,no change BTW how do you get that sucker out of the stem if it is bad?

I'm not sure if the switch is working, I get no continuity at the canceling unit disconnect with a meter when I move the turn signal switch, there is a second connector upstream, anyone knows where that is?
 

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GL1800 Doctor
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If you disconnect the cancel unit it definitely won't work, because the ground that activates the turn signal relay is sent from the cancel unit. The pink wire in this diagram is the potential problem wire. The turn signal switch sends a ground to the cancel unit on this pink wire and the cancel unit sends the ground on to the relay on the blue/black wire coming out of the top of it in the diagram. Connectors involved for the pink wire, C24,C25. They're under the right side fairing pocket. If the pink wire's continuity checks ok, then there's something else killing them. It won't be the relay, or your hazards would be dead too.

 

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I found the harness from the canceling unit was cut in half where it rubbed on the black tunnel cover going into the right fairing. I found other damage wires on that side too. A couple from the ACC junction block were rubbed bare and it looks like the wires from the outside temp sensor was also broken. The canceling unit harness maybe from putting risers on the handlebars, not sure about the ACC block, nothing was touching the wires that I could see, the temp sensor maybe from pinching the wires putting the top shelter on, everything was working Sunday when I left home.

Oh Well the K&N air filter is in now, I also found I could hide some the extra wire from farkles under the air cleaner ducts. I should do the 4-way mod and the temp/turn signal cancel button mods while it's apart and the weather is not that great.

Thanks...
 

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The test to make sure nothing is rubbing is to sweep the bars fully from right to left. Nothing should be bindeing, rubbing, pulling, scraping, or pinching wires, cables, or hoses. Also, if anything is routing down to the forks, those forks need to contract and extend 4.5". Often people have "bling" added at rallies and usually those people just do things as quick as possible with no regaurd to future problems. A good clue is pulling what sits under that LF pocket. The only thing intended to go there is the additional loom for fog lights ... that's it. It sounds like when the rises were put on, things were not routed correctly.
 

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It sounds like when the rises were put on, things were not routed correctly.
I had to remove the covers on the bottom of the handlebars and let the wires and hydraulic hose realign themselves I then tyraped them instead of putting the metal covers back on. I had not moved or added any wires to the right side, except routing the wires from the aux lights under the mirrors but they did not follow the wires to the handlebars but across to the left side...

Sorry but there is room for numerous wires and harware on both sides for HID headlights, GPS's, lights(driving and MotoLights) and a few other goodies, just doesn't look very nice with the LH glove box out...

And I leave a big loop on any bundles I run. :doorag:
 
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