[Valkpilot]

On Saturday I noticed that my signals no longer flash in response to locking and unlocking the trunk with the FOB.

All buttons on the FOB work as they should. You can hear the signal relay in the trunk lid clicking correctly in response to the FOB key press. The trunk actually locks, unlocks, and releases as it should. The horn alarm relay works.

Turn signals and hazards function normally from handlebar and panel controls.

There's no external evidence of damage to the harness that passes by the trunk hinge on the right side.

This is coincidental with removal and reassembly (now several times) of the trunk lid liner to repair some of the stripped out bosses for the screws that attach the liner.

It looks to me as if the problem must be a broken Pink/White wire between the relay box in the trunk and the diode under the seat.

Thoughts?

 

[Augi]

My first thought is that I don't know what year, model and option package of (what I assume) is a Gold Wing

 

[Valkpilot]

My first thought is that I don't know what year, model and option package of (what I assume) is a Gold Wing

Sorry. Thought I had this listed in my profile.


2007 Level III ABS, Comfort, NAV.

 

[techdude2000]

Sorry. Thought I had this listed in my profile.


2007 Level III ABS, Comfort, NAV.

If your lights still work with the hazard switch, then it’s the pink/white wire broken somewhere between the trunk unit and the diode. Even if the hinge harness looks good, the wire can still be broken inside.

 

[Valkpilot]

If your lights still work with the hazard switch, then it’s the pink/white wire broken somewhere between the trunk unit and the diode. Even if the hinge harness looks good, the wire can still be broken inside.

So, I figure my options are

• Don't worry about it and do without the flashing confirmation
• Run a new, single wire from the connector to the diode
• Buy a new sub-harness @ about $50 and spend a couple of hours installing it

Not inclined to do the last unless there's a good chance more are going to break.

 

[fun42]

The wires usually break somewhere around the hinge. If you find that break you repair just the wire (reconnect the two ends)

 

[Fred H.]

You'll probably have to unwrap the harness where it bends to find the break.

 

[Valkpilot]

You'll probably have to unwrap the harness where it bends to find the break.

My concern is that the conductor is broken but not the insulation, so no way to find exactly where it's broken.

 

[techdude2000]

So, I figure my options are

• Don't worry about it and do without the flashing confirmation
• Run a new, single wire from the connector to the diode
• Buy a new sub-harness @ about $50 and spend a couple of hours installing it

Not inclined to do the last unless there's a good chance more are going to break.

Eventually, all 1800 wings, other than the baggers will have those wires break. Poor design in the route, age, and using the trunk ensures this.

 

[Big_Bird]

A few weeks ago there was a post suggesting re-routing the harness away from the hinge area and sort of straight down behind the seat cushions. There was a pic but I can't find the post right now.

Is that something that many people do? Is it smart?

 

[doug of no fl]

Re-route the two harness and you will never have that problem!! very simple, common sense. Takes 5 min, MANY have done it. I ride every day almost 100,00mi 0n a 07 & not a problem after I re-routed the harness.

Wires are to small and fragile with too much movement with too sharp of bends to last any length of time at all and if the harness gets moved the hinge will reach out and slice it.

 

[Valkpilot]

Eventually, all 1800 wings, other than the baggers will have those wires break. Poor design in the route, age, and using the trunk ensures this.

After living with the no-flash for all this time, I finally got around to checking out the harness. I focused on where it bent at the sharpest angle when the trunk closed. As soon as I cut off the wire bundle sheath, the broken pink/white wire popped out -- cleanly separated as if cut.

It was good that I got into it, because another was nearly broken in two.

Both repaired, and I wrapped the bundle in corrugated wire loom for structural support so it won't flex the wires at such a severe angle.

 

[prockey]

A few weeks ago there was a post suggesting re-routing the harness away from the hinge area and sort of straight down behind the seat cushions. There was a pic but I can't find the post right now.

Is that something that many people do? Is it smart?

I discovered that ALL of my wires in the harness were broken so soldered them back and re-routed the wire. Not sure who designed that sharp bend in the wire but it pretty much ensures that you will get breaks sooner or later.

Mine is an 2005

 

[Valkpilot]

I discovered that ALL of my wires in the harness were broken so soldered them back and re-routed the wire. Not sure who designed that sharp bend in the wire but it pretty much ensures that you will get breaks sooner or later.

Mine is an 2005

Interested in a picture of the re-route.

 

[techdude2000]

After living with the no-flash for all this time, I finally got around to checking out the harness. I focused on where it bent at the sharpest angle when the trunk closed. As soon as I cut off the wire bundle sheath, the broken pink/white wire popped out -- cleanly separated as if cut.

It was good that I got into it, because another was nearly broken in two.

Both repaired, and I wrapped the bundle in corrugated wire loom for structural support so it won't flex the wires at such a severe angle.

Glad you got it straightened out. :grin2:

 

[GoldWingrGreg]

Sorry. Thought I had this listed in my profile.


2007 Level III ABS, Comfort, NAV.

Most of us who often help have learned not to trust a bi-line. One time I helped a guy for about 5 pages before finding out how stupid I was for making that assumption. He was asking about his buddies Wing.

Help comes best when the issue/problem/symptom is listed with the year and mileage.

 

[GoldWingrGreg]

So, I figure my options are

• Don't worry about it and do without the flashing confirmation
• Run a new, single wire from the connector to the diode
• Buy a new sub-harness @ about $50 and spend a couple of hours installing it

Not inclined to do the last unless there's a good chance more are going to break.

Since most of the wires will eventually break, you do have a 4th option. Keep in mind that the wire to the remote is hot all the time, while others are hot when the key is turned on. At least for me, I never want "floating" power wires that are not properly protected from grounding out and causing other problems.

4) cut the wires and tape them all off, or remove the harness completely. Unfortunately, if you have a spoiler, power to it will be lost too.

For me, I'd replace the harness.