How did you get them apart? Mine are about 7 years old now. They are still working, but I know, some day soon, they will quit.
Rocket, I made use of a good digital caliper, then found the exact center of sender body. Then, I set that point of knife edge, and determined the heavy end. (not by much) That is the battery end, I presumed correctly. At least twice that worked out.
Then I used a small scraper device, like a Sizzler meat tenderness stick, sharpened a bit, and started scraping the sealant off bottom. NO METAL SCRAPERS HERE !!
Got that all off, and removed the 2 screws at center. Then on heavy end, I drilled a 3/16 hole under the label (pull the label off carefully and save). Don't let that bit go thru anything but the thickness of shell plastic) Then, I used a drill bit with flattened end (anything like a dowel) and pushed thru hole very slowly but gradually increasing pressure, and the module starts to come out of inside sealant. Don't get in a hurry here.
Oh, btw, if the "pusher" goes into the hole more than an 1/8 inch or more, we have the wrong end drilled !!) The idea is to push on the battery's.
Now, the module is staring you in the face. So, take a couple macro type pictures to determine the battery installation. And after taking pictures, start cleaning the clear tough-ish sealer from around the cell straps right where they are soldered to the board. Then, I used a solder sucker (radio Shack) To de-solder the battery tabs.
Bear in mind as you're doing this battery job, there's 2 cells, 3v. each, but, they're in parallel. So, the end result is 3V. Do some studying on how they installed these, and take the replacement cells and solder their tabs to the tabs of old cells. Will take some measuring here. The cells I acquired had tabs that are too short. You can see where I soldered them in one of the previous shots, with about 3/16 over lap. Once these are installed, it's important to determine that the cells will rest on the bottom of well. No gap allowed. Calipers are handy here, just don't accidentally short the battery's with the caliper. Then reseal the solder joints with some sensor safe silicone.
Get the module back into housing, install the screws, and reseal the bottom, and the drilled hole with some gray sensor safe silicone. Then let set for a couple days. I test them by mounting on trailer wheel, install tire, pump to 35 psi, and spinning with drill chuck against tire, on a balancer. Or whatever method is handy. Of course, one has to have a powered up monitor, and set into program mode, or one could do that spinning next to bike with it's monitor on, and in pgm. mode. Works a treat.
If one if confident of his job, just install, and go. Using a multi-meter to confirm polarity isn't a bad idea, either.
It takes longer to tell it, than to actually do it. This fix may not be worth the trouble for some, but I like the ST so much, I deemed the procedure worth it. But then, I'm a tinkerer by nature. :coffee1:
Search E-Bay for "
Panasonic BR1632 battery" and pick the versions with the longest tabs.
4: Anyway, good luck with whatever you end up doing.
