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Discussion Starter #1
I am going to tap the collective wisdom of the board and see if all of the rumors of availabilty of the tire units are true. Befor I take my unit off of my bike and look for another option I thought I would ask the question.

My question to all of you is, are there any units out there that will work on the wing? I have heard that units from cars,trucks,and even the space shuttle will work! What is urban legend and what is fact? I know that Smartire on longer makes them for the bike so what will work?

Sitting back and waiting for the information to roll in.:excited:

Redeye
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Not a clue! :shrug::shrug::shrug: How are ya?
I knew you were clueless!!:wrong:

I am doing fine. Looking to get together in the fall for our annual ride. I will keep you in the loop.

Redeye
 

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I knew you were clueless!!:wrong:

I am doing fine. Looking to get together in the fall for our annual ride. I will keep you in the loop.

Redeye
I'd love to, I need an excuse for a ride.:biker:
 

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Do you have dead or brokens wheel sensors? Nothing will work with them, except Smartire made. I read somewhere that the automotive sensors don't have the high temperature batts the mc units do. The apparently use CR Panasonic batts. The MC units take the BR Panasonic lithium iron batts., and arn't available at local batt. store. I bought my own from Ebay, and have replaced batts on 2 sensors so far. Not that easy, unless one has the aptitude for that kind of thing. As usual, they created their own protocal.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I forgot, as you probably already know, that rear tire can get mighty hot, and can kill a regular lithium battery pretty fast. Here's hopefully a better shot
Thanks that is one fix as I would really like to keep my Smartire set up.

Redeye
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Do you have dead or brokens wheel sensors? Nothing will work with them, except Smartire made. I read somewhere that the automotive sensors don't have the high temperature batts the mc units do. The apparently use CR Panasonic batts. The MC units take the BR Panasonic lithium iron batts., and arn't available at local batt. store. I bought my own from Ebay, and have replaced batts on 2 sensors so far. Not that easy, unless one has the aptitude for that kind of thing. As usual, they created their own protocal.
Yes the sensors are acting up which points to low and dead batteries.

Redeye
 

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Do you have dead or brokens wheel sensors? Nothing will work with them, except Smartire made. I read somewhere that the automotive sensors don't have the high temperature batts the mc units do. The apparently use CR Panasonic batts. The MC units take the BR Panasonic lithium iron batts., and arn't available at local batt. store. I bought my own from Ebay, and have replaced batts on 2 sensors so far. Not that easy, unless one has the aptitude for that kind of thing. As usual, they created their own protocal.
How did you get them apart? Mine are about 7 years old now. They are still working, but I know, some day soon, they will quit.
 

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I am going to tap the collective wisdom of the board and see if all of the rumors of availabilty of the tire units are true. Befor I take my unit off of my bike and look for another option I thought I would ask the question.

My question to all of you is, are there any units out there that will work on the wing? I have heard that units from cars,trucks,and even the space shuttle will work! What is urban legend and what is fact? I know that Smartire on longer makes them for the bike so what will work?

Sitting back and waiting for the information to roll in.:excited:

Redeye
I just ordered two replacement sensors yesterday from Vulcan Tire Sales.
Stock # 11014 SmarTire Wheel Sensor (Low) #062.1001
They run $64.00 each.

Before everyone freaks out, yes those are for a passenger car, but guess what, they work perfectly.... Running two sets right now.... no issues.

www.vulcantire.com
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I just ordered two replacement sensors yesterday from Vulcan Tire Sales.
Stock # 11014 SmarTire Wheel Sensor (Low) #062.1001
They run $64.00 each.

Before everyone freaks out, yes those are for a passenger car, but guess what, they work perfectly.... Running two sets right now.... no issues.

www.vulcantire.com
You are the man!! Thanks Larry,I just ordered up two. I owe ya!

Redeye
 

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How did you get them apart? Mine are about 7 years old now. They are still working, but I know, some day soon, they will quit.
Rocket, I made use of a good digital caliper, then found the exact center of sender body. Then, I set that point of knife edge, and determined the heavy end. (not by much) That is the battery end, I presumed correctly. At least twice that worked out.

Then I used a small scraper device, like a Sizzler meat tenderness stick, sharpened a bit, and started scraping the sealant off bottom. NO METAL SCRAPERS HERE !!
Got that all off, and removed the 2 screws at center. Then on heavy end, I drilled a 3/16 hole under the label (pull the label off carefully and save). Don't let that bit go thru anything but the thickness of shell plastic) Then, I used a drill bit with flattened end (anything like a dowel) and pushed thru hole very slowly but gradually increasing pressure, and the module starts to come out of inside sealant. Don't get in a hurry here. Oh, btw, if the "pusher" goes into the hole more than an 1/8 inch or more, we have the wrong end drilled !!) The idea is to push on the battery's.

Now, the module is staring you in the face. So, take a couple macro type pictures to determine the battery installation. And after taking pictures, start cleaning the clear tough-ish sealer from around the cell straps right where they are soldered to the board. Then, I used a solder sucker (radio Shack) To de-solder the battery tabs.

Bear in mind as you're doing this battery job, there's 2 cells, 3v. each, but, they're in parallel. So, the end result is 3V. Do some studying on how they installed these, and take the replacement cells and solder their tabs to the tabs of old cells. Will take some measuring here. The cells I acquired had tabs that are too short. You can see where I soldered them in one of the previous shots, with about 3/16 over lap. Once these are installed, it's important to determine that the cells will rest on the bottom of well. No gap allowed. Calipers are handy here, just don't accidentally short the battery's with the caliper. Then reseal the solder joints with some sensor safe silicone.

Get the module back into housing, install the screws, and reseal the bottom, and the drilled hole with some gray sensor safe silicone. Then let set for a couple days. I test them by mounting on trailer wheel, install tire, pump to 35 psi, and spinning with drill chuck against tire, on a balancer. Or whatever method is handy. Of course, one has to have a powered up monitor, and set into program mode, or one could do that spinning next to bike with it's monitor on, and in pgm. mode. Works a treat.

If one if confident of his job, just install, and go. Using a multi-meter to confirm polarity isn't a bad idea, either.

It takes longer to tell it, than to actually do it. This fix may not be worth the trouble for some, but I like the ST so much, I deemed the procedure worth it. But then, I'm a tinkerer by nature. :coffee1:

Search E-Bay for "Panasonic BR1632 battery" and pick the versions with the longest tabs.
 

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Hi Larry. I though I read somewhere they were out of them. In fact I checked their site several times, months ago, and all they had was a monitor, and some band clamps. Not even bridges. That will definitely help those who don't want to tinker. Get em while you can !!
 

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Hi Larry. I though I read somewhere they were out of them. In fact I checked their site several times, months ago, and all they had was a monitor, and some band clamps. Not even bridges. That will definitely help those who don't want to tinker. Get em while you can !!
I have noticed the same thing... seems they have them for awhile, then out of stock... I keep checking, then there they are again... shrug... I know it won't last forever, but what the heck...
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I ordered 2 of the sensors and got to looking on the site and the whole kit for MCs is available they say. I ordered one and will see if it is in fact in stock.

Redeye
 

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Discussion Starter #17
It was wet and it was glorious!! I had a great time in spite of the weather. 750 miles which seems like not much by our standerts but it was great. ENJOY!!!

I will keep you in the loop for the fall ride.

Redeye
 

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Rocket, I made use of a good digital caliper, then found the exact center of sender body. Then, I set that point of knife edge, and determined the heavy end. (not by much) That is the battery end, I presumed correctly. At least twice that worked out.

Then I used a small scraper device, like a Sizzler meat tenderness stick, sharpened a bit, and started scraping the sealant off bottom. NO METAL SCRAPERS HERE !!
Got that all off, and removed the 2 screws at center. Then on heavy end, I drilled a 3/16 hole under the label (pull the label off carefully and save). Don't let that bit go thru anything but the thickness of shell plastic) Then, I used a drill bit with flattened end (anything like a dowel) and pushed thru hole very slowly but gradually increasing pressure, and the module starts to come out of inside sealant. Don't get in a hurry here. Oh, btw, if the "pusher" goes into the hole more than an 1/8 inch or more, we have the wrong end drilled !!) The idea is to push on the battery's.

Now, the module is staring you in the face. So, take a couple macro type pictures to determine the battery installation. And after taking pictures, start cleaning the clear tough-ish sealer from around the cell straps right where they are soldered to the board. Then, I used a solder sucker (radio Shack) To de-solder the battery tabs.

Bear in mind as you're doing this battery job, there's 2 cells, 3v. each, but, they're in parallel. So, the end result is 3V. Do some studying on how they installed these, and take the replacement cells and solder their tabs to the tabs of old cells. Will take some measuring here. The cells I acquired had tabs that are too short. You can see where I soldered them in one of the previous shots, with about 3/16 over lap. Once these are installed, it's important to determine that the cells will rest on the bottom of well. No gap allowed. Calipers are handy here, just don't accidentally short the battery's with the caliper. Then reseal the solder joints with some sensor safe silicone.

Get the module back into housing, install the screws, and reseal the bottom, and the drilled hole with some gray sensor safe silicone. Then let set for a couple days. I test them by mounting on trailer wheel, install tire, pump to 35 psi, and spinning with drill chuck against tire, on a balancer. Or whatever method is handy. Of course, one has to have a powered up monitor, and set into program mode, or one could do that spinning next to bike with it's monitor on, and in pgm. mode. Works a treat.

If one if confident of his job, just install, and go. Using a multi-meter to confirm polarity isn't a bad idea, either.

It takes longer to tell it, than to actually do it. This fix may not be worth the trouble for some, but I like the ST so much, I deemed the procedure worth it. But then, I'm a tinkerer by nature. :coffee1:

Search E-Bay for "Panasonic BR1632 battery" and pick the versions with the longest tabs.

Thanks much. I too do some tinkering. I see in another post, they have the motorcycle kit again. I think I'll wait and see if it's the same as ours. I do love the ST.
 

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I went to Vulcan site, and the MC kit says N/A. I know when Bendix bought them out a cpl. years ago, they almost immediately stopped the MC kit. Way bad !!:eek:4: Anyway, good luck with whatever you end up doing.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
The UPS man just dropped off 2 tire moniters and a compelet MC kit!! There is a Santa Claus!! It is called Vulcan Tire!
Redeye
 
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