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OK> Have my tank removed to work on starter and have been advised to check G1 connections and then solder them all together. That is a lot of wires....will a regular home type solder iron be hot enough?
 

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I didn't solder all the wires together because they were already all together. I cleaned them real nice and added a wire with a ring that ran from the center bolt right to ground on the battery.
 

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Your regular soldering iron should be fine. Just let it get good and hot first, heat the wires, and run your solder. As Keithg64 said, adding another ground from the battery negative terminal to that main ground doesn't hurt either. Good luck.
 

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OK> Have my tank removed to work on starter and have been advised to check G1 connections and then solder them all together. That is a lot of wires....will a regular home type solder iron be hot enough?
What is the issue that you are having ??? I've never had to do anything with those connections.
 

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No issue. When I reviewed Freds video on tank remove, he recommends that at one of the last slides.
 

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When I did mine I was careful to flux-it-up...but good.
 

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Make sure to clean all the gunk off the bolt before putting it back in and also clean out the bolt hole real good like with a wire gun barrel brush. This helps improve contact for the ground.
 

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If you want to proceed with improved ground connections at this point but have the ability to work on it later. “Tinning” each eyelet with solder will improve contact between eyelets and the frame and isolate moisture intrusion.
 

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No issue. When I reviewed Freds video on tank remove, he recommends that at one of the last slides.
I would not do anything to that connection. Doing something to a perfectly good connection can create problems.
 

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When I had my tank off a couple years ago I was going to undo the nut holding all the wires in place to inspect/clean connection as needed but couldn't loosen it. After a couple attempts, decided to just leave it as I was afraid I would twist off the stud. :frown2:
 

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I would not solder them all together, just take them loose and wire brush the contact point on the frame and remount them to the frame. Use some contact cleaner such as DeoxIT. If you’re concerned with improving the ground circuit, make a heavy gauge jumper and run it from this point to the battery grounding point at the right rear of the engine. It’s the metal plate at the reverse cables and lost motion plate assembly. You can see the battery’s ground cable attached to it. This will give the system a better electrical ground and not add any wires to the battery posts.
 

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I would not solder them all together, just take them loose and wire brush the contact point on the frame and remount them to the frame. Use some contact cleaner such as DeoxIT. If you’re concerned with improving the ground circuit, make a heavy gauge jumper and run it from this point to the battery grounding point at the right rear of the engine. It’s the metal plate at the reverse cables and lost motion plate assembly. You can see the battery’s ground cable attached to it. This will give the system a better electrical ground and not add any wires to the battery posts.

I agree. What I did back in 2002 to connect those all together was overkill. The early year GL1800's suffered from a lot of intercom and headset noise, and I was trying to eliminate all possible sources. Honda later (2004?) upgraded the headset harness and how it was routed and that fixed a majority of the noise. I'll remove that photo from my gallery so it doesn't cause anymore confusion.
 

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If someone is having a headset noise problem, instead of messing with grounds and such, I would install a Headset Noise kit from Honda. I believe from 2004+, all 5th gens came with them. 2001-03s didn't have the harness that runs forward along the right side of the fuel tank up to the radio harness. 2004-17s do.

Headset noise kit 32190-MCA-305
 
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