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Discussion Starter #1
This may be a dumb question, as I've viewed Freds on-line pictorial, and reviewed the DVD a while back, which I will need to look at again soon (CRS syndrome)... but can the forks be re-filled with fork oil while they're off the bike, or should they be on the bike? The reason I ask is that I will be removing the forks to replace all seals, put in Progressive springs, rebuild my ADV, and install All Balls. So I'm wondering if the fork oil level needs to be measured while the forks are back on the bike and at the angle that they are normally at... or can I fill them and measure the level while they are off the bike and gently secured in a vice in a vertical position?

Also, where on earth can I find an alluminum rod to make a oil level tool like Freds?


I can't find one anywhere!! :evil:

Thanks... and Happy New Year!!!
8)
 

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The forks should be off the bike, held vertically with the spring and spacer OUT and the fork tube collapsed. Measure the fork oil to the recommended level by Progressive. They recommend 15 weight oil but I've found that's a little too heavy for most GL owners. I use 10 weight and it seems to respond better.

Depending on your mileage you will probably want to replace the lower bushing on the bottom of the fork tube. Most dealers should have them in stock... if they don't we have them
www.wingworx.com

The aren't on the website so you'll have to call.

HTH

Ray
Wing Worx
 

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Hey Floyd!! Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!!!

It would be easier to fill OFF the bike!! The measurements are done with the forks fully compressed!!
You going to replace the bushings and the springs??
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hey Dave, Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you, Sassy, and the Lad too!!

PunkinWing said:
You going to replace the bushings and the springs??
I sure hope so!! :? :lol:

I'm doing so much to my bike this winter that my head is spinning. I have parts and tools and chemicals everywhere!! :shock: For the fork rebuild, I just looked at the schematic on the Honda OEM parts site and ordered everything that I thought was related to a fork rebuild. If two of something was needed, I ordered three! (I think you actually suggested that in another thread) So I will have extras if I or someone else needs them. Here's what I ordered for the forks. Please let me know if I'm missing something.
(I already have the Progressive springs, fork oil, and ADV o-rings)

Mfg Product Number: 51412-KZ3-003
Description: RING, BACK-UP for 2004 Honda GL1800
Order Quantity: 3
Unit Price: $4.91
Total Cost: $14.73

Mfg Product Number: 51414-MCA-003
Description: BUSH, GUIDE for 2004 Honda GL1800
Order Quantity: 3
Unit Price: $2.60
Total Cost: $7.80

Mfg Product Number: 51415-MCA-003
Description: BUSH, SLIDER for 2004 Honda GL1800
Order Quantity: 3
Unit Price: $2.60
Total Cost: $7.80

Mfg Product Number: 51447-KZ3-003
Description: RING for 2004 Honda GL1800
Order Quantity: 3
Unit Price: $2.77
Total Cost: $8.31

Mfg Product Number: 51490-MCA-003
Description: SEAL SET, FR. FORK for 2004 Honda GL1800
Order Quantity: 3
Unit Price: $12.35
Total Cost: $37.05

Mfg Product Number: 90116-KV3-701
Description: BOLT, SOCKET (8MM) for 2004 Honda GL1800
Order Quantity: 1
Unit Price: $2.50
Total Cost: $2.50

Mfg Product Number: 90116-383-721
Description: BOLT, SOCKET (8X27) for 2004 Honda GL1800
Order Quantity: 1
Unit Price: $2.79
Total Cost: $2.79

Mfg Product Number: 90544-283-000
Description: WASHER (8MM) for 2004 Honda GL1800
Order Quantity: 2
Unit Price: $2.50
Total Cost: $5.00

Mfg Product Number: 91356-MW0-003
Description: O-RING (37.2X2.4) for 2004 Honda GL1800
Order Quantity: 2
Unit Price: $2.50
Total Cost: $5.00

Mfg Product Number: 90506-425-830
Description: WASHER, LOCK for 2004 Honda GL1800
Order Quantity: 1
Unit Price: $3.91
Total Cost: $3.91


Man... I'm praying I can slap all this stuff together once I pull it apart. When I bought my bike, I thought I was just going to ride it and take it to the shop when it needed maintenence. But NO... you guys (and this board) are turning me into a wrench! :lol: :lol: Fred and I will be spending lots of time together this winter. Here's the short list of what I'm doing.

Bike Maintenance Winter 2006

1. Remove and repair windshield tape
2. Tighten all coolant hoses
3. Top off rear pre-load adjuster
4. Adjust cruise control.
5. Replace air filter
6. Install All Balls steering bearings
7. Install Progressive front fork
8. Replace fork seals, bushings, and oil
9. Rebuild Anti-dive unit
10. Replace brake fluid
11. Replace coolant
12. Change spark plugs

So... where do I get an alluminum rod???

(Thanks all, for your help!)

8)
 

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I just rebuilt my forks and I did the 5" from the top fill while off the bike . I also stripped a 10 gauge copper wire out of a piece off romex and used that as a priming rod and it worked good that is instead of the rod. After the forks where off it took about an hour and a half to rebuild both forks . Make sure you clean ever thing very good . I used denatured alcohol to clean all the cleaning solvent off the parts. Also have extra oil to dip parts in before installing them.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks Brian, good advice.

Please explain this to me--->
Brian Hand said:
I also stripped a 10 gauge copper wire out of a piece off romex and used that as a priming rod and it worked good that is instead of the rod.
What are you priming? Are you talking about getting the air bubbles out of the fork after filling them?

Also, what king of cleaning solvent? Is mineral spirits OK?

Thanks
 

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The rod should be avaialable at any hardware store. You could use a section of toilet inlet pipe or such. Since you are rebuilding the forks, its gonna be easier to just fill them as you do the re-build. Fred's technique for on the bike measure was intended for folks just draining and then refilling the oil without removing forks from the bike. If you have trouble with that blasted right fork bottom bolt; just do a search for a solution.

prs
 

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Hey Floyd
Not much help from here, most of what Ive done is oil, fluids,filter and tire changes so far bessides amp and speaker upgrades and bustec hitches even tho Ive done the forks on my VTX 1800. Really just wanted to say your website and music are really cool, sending you a friend request on MySpace.
John
 

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In your right fork tube you have a fork damper( page 467 in service manual ) At the top of the damper rod is a nut after you get the fork together have the copper wire tied onto the damper rod on the lower side of the nut when you push the damper rod down you can pull it back up all the way to get all the air out . You can tell when the air is out because the pumping gets hard. I used brake cleaner to clean ever thing up and the alcohol to clean out the solvent. I would think the mineral spirits would be fine. If you need to talk call me on my cell at 903-229-2208
 

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Tech question.

When filling the forks and setting the level with the springs out, both are set to 5" below the fork tube top with the forks fully compressed.
When the springs go in, the left one goes in further due to the fact that no damper is fitted on that side.
Now the oil level will be higher than the right side due to the left spring displacing more oil. The right side spring goes in less distance than the left.

Here is the question: Are we setting the air space to be identical in both forks? If so, the springs should be in to allow for the displacement of the oil by the springs. Oil is incompressible, but the actual oil volume in each of the forks would be slightly less than quoted in the manual. Would this be of concern?

Could this explain why only the left oil seal blows?

Trev.
 

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The springs of either fork seems to set at the same level as witnessed by the similar struggle on either side to replae the top cap. SInce many folks are using the Progressive spring or Max's springs, set the oil level by what the supplier says; 5" may be too much oil; although maybe its close enough for gov'ment work.

prs
 

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Auswing said:
When filling the forks and setting the level with the springs out, both are set to 5" below the fork tube top with the forks fully compressed.
Hey Trevor,
I believe the level is set with the forks fully compressed and the springs IN..
 

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Pigeon Roost said:
The springs of either fork seems to set at the same level as witnessed by the similar struggle on either side to replae the top cap. SInce many folks are using the Progressive spring or Max's springs, set the oil level by what the supplier says; 5" may be too much oil; although maybe its close enough for gov'ment work.

prs
The short and long spacers give the same compression when putting the caps back on. The left spring is submersed further into the oil thus raising the level after the five inches is set.

trev.
 

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PunkinWing said:
Auswing said:
When filling the forks and setting the level with the springs out, both are set to 5" below the fork tube top with the forks fully compressed.
Hey Trevor,
I believe the level is set with the forks fully compressed and the springs IN..
I did mine with the springs in, the book says with the springs out.

Trev.
 

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Both springs are both covered with oil after put in with 5" from the top . No matter how far either spring goes in they are the same size thus displacing the same amount of oil.
 

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Auswing; I plumb forgot about the spacers having different lengths :oops: . But as Brian pointed out, that is a moot point since both are under the oil.

prs
 

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Soloquest said:
Mfg Product Number: 90506-425-830
Description: WASHER, LOCK for 2004 Honda GL1800
Order Quantity: 1
Unit Price: $3.91
Total Cost: $3.91 [/color]
Floyd, I'm going to do my forks this winter as well, and looked over your shopping list - pretty complete. But what is this part for? I don't see it on the HONDA parts fiche for the front forks.

And while I got your attentiion - I had a look at your web site and clicked on the "YYZ" audio file. Did you know YYZ is the ident for Toronto International Airport? Anyway, I listened to the audio file, for about 22 seconds.

What noise! Sounds like your band is trying to make for lack of practice time by injuring everyone's inner ears. But that's a cool red guitar you have!

Take care,

John S.

PS I spend the day at a hotel where it was minus 20 outside watching Fred H's videos and making notes. I'm glad you took the time to list the OEM part numbers for the bolts and washers (or should I say woosherrrrs?)
 

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Auswing said:
PunkinWing said:
Auswing said:
When filling the forks and setting the level with the springs out, both are set to 5" below the fork tube top with the forks fully compressed.
Hey Trevor,
I believe the level is set with the forks fully compressed and the springs IN..
I did mine with the springs in, the book says with the springs out.

Trev.
This will mean the oil level of your forks is WAAAAAAAAAAAAAY too low, and your forks will bottom out easily.
 
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