Sony 500 Watt Amplifier/Polk Audio Speaker Setup on 2012 Goldwing

35157 Views 39 Replies 24 Participants Last post by XX, Apr 24, 2017

agreene604

Discussion Starter · Jan 13, 2013

For those looking to upgrade and greatly improve your sounds and tunes on the factory Goldwing system, I have just completed an install of a Sony XM-4S amplifier that gives output of 50 watts RMS per channel. I also replace the front and rear speakers with Polk Audio DB501's and DB651's, front and rear. I added a 6 circuit accessory block for protection. I mounted the Amp in the trunk vertically next to the GPS system. If you didn't know it, it appears as a factory component. It tremendously improves the quality as well as the volume of the factory system. The total cost was approximately $300 all in anyone handy with a pair of crimpers, screw driver, and a cordless drill can do the install. Good luck and feel free to ask questions! :thumbup:

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wingdaytrader

· #2 · Jan 13, 2013

re: Amp/Upgrade

A few questions..
1. Did you leave the factory OEM AMP in place in the under the trunk location?
2. Did you splice into the harness going to the factory AMP, or did you find a connector that was plug compatible with the factory AMP to wiring harness plug?
3. Any observations on heating of your amp/cooling airflow?

Of course any photos you share would be greatly appreciated.

Congrats!

Jigit

· #3 · Jan 13, 2013

Beware this amplifier heats up in hot weather and shuts itself off, especially if you have trunk filled with luggage. Try it during long summer trips ... and don't get rid of the factory amp.

Wing One

· #4 · Jan 13, 2013

wingdaytrader said:
A few questions..
1. Did you leave the factory OEM AMP in place in the under the trunk location?
2. Did you splice into the harness going to the factory AMP, or did you find a connector that was plug compatible with the factory AMP to wiring harness plug?
3. Any observations on heating of your amp/cooling airflow?

Of course any photos you share would be greatly appreciated.

Congrats!

Sounds like it's on a pre 06, no external amp, 06 and up put out 80 Watts per channel.

Steve F

· #5 · Jan 13, 2013

Wing One said:
Sounds like it's on a pre 06, no external amp, 06 and up put out 80 Watts per channel.

It says in the heading that it's a 2012.
I have a question about the DB501's that (most) everyone is using....do you have to re-drill or enlarge the opening any to fit them in the front openings? Which wire goin to the left and right speaker is the (+)?

agreene604

Discussion Starter · #6 · Jan 14, 2013

My wing is a 2012 and the sound factory sound system although enhanced from previous years, still sucked. I will try to answer your questions. Yes all factory equipment stayed in place. I made home run pulls with 2 pair of speaker wire(heavy good wire) to each speaker, front and rear,left and right. On the speaker connections, the large spad is the positive and the thin spad is negative. I ran all the wiring down the left side of the bike. I removed the left storage box and the seat to run the wires. I drilled a 5/8" hole at the bottom left corner of the trunk to route the front speaker wires and the power lead through. I put a rubber grommet in the hole to protect from chaffing. On the sony Xplod unit I used, all the connections are made on one end. I routed the 4 rear speaker wires through the factory trunk opening at right rear of the trunk. I then used a section of cable shield to protect the wires in the trunk plus the black color blended everything together. I took my time and laid the cables flat, tie wrapped them, and made sure that I had good connectors on. Use a heavy gauge speaker wire and a #8 power lead. A GOOD GROUND IS A MUST. Attach the ground to a non-painted surface, such as a bolt to the frame. As for the speaker installs, the front bolt pattern matches right up but the only mod i made was to make a small indentation on the speaker frame to clear the dash gauge unit on each side. It does not effect or harm the speakers. The rear speakers were simple. I just clipped the outside of each mounting hole to allow me to use the factory screws. I only needed to add a washer to each screw to secure the speakers. When tuning the amp, turn both filter switches off, the front and rear gains all the way down. Then turn your factory volume all the way to max. Change the balance to all front. Go to your amp and start turning up the front gain until you hear distortion and then back it off a touch. do the same process for the rears. You can then switch the filters on or off to your liking. Now I know there will be those that say to use a multimeter or O-scope to tune but I am a novice and just wanted better tunes, not an electronic masterpiece. I want to spend my time riding with the wife rockin out to 70's tunes or Luther Vandross if I'm forced too. I hope this answers your questions but feel free to ask more. I will post some pictures as soon as I take them. My system's sound rival any that I have heard from the big boys systems! Good Luck! :lol:

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agreene604

Discussion Starter · #7 · Jan 14, 2013

Missed replying to the heat question. I live in Fla and as a test run, I rode for a straight 2 1/2 hours coast to coast New Years Eve at 70MPH plus and the radio cranking. The trunk had our overnight gear in it. The Amp did get warm as most Amps do, but it never cut off. Most Amps have protective heat circuits that shut the amp down if over heated. But as a precaution, I installed a 5" 12 volt fan that I bought from Best Buy and mounted it directly to the Amp. I have it drawing air away from the amp, not blowing the hot air back on it. It is wired with the positive to the amp's remote lug and the negative to the ground on the amp. Now the amp is much cooler now although there were no problems. And the fan I bought had blue LED's on it so when you open the trunk to show your friends the amp, the blue LED's light up the interior of the trunk. Thanks

agreene604

Discussion Starter · #8 · Jan 14, 2013

On the 2012 output question, they may say 80 watts but I would venture to say that's peak not RMS. My system out puts 50 watts RMS and is much louder yet perfectly clear. I can now hear the "details" of the tunes I am listening too as before it was flat. I did run just the new replacement speakers for a month before the Amp install. It did help but nothing like the addition of the Amp did with the speakers. Careful if you add the amp without the speaker upgrade. You may blow them out.

wingdaytrader

· #9 · Jan 14, 2013

agreene604 said:
On the 2012 output question, they may say 80 watts but I would venture to say that's peak not RMS. My system out puts 50 watts RMS and is much louder yet perfectly clear. I can now hear the "details" of the tunes I am listening too as before it was flat. I did run just the new replacement speakers for a month before the Amp install. It did help but nothing like the addition of the Amp did with the speakers. Careful if you add the amp without the speaker upgrade. You may blow them out.

Sounds like it's working well for you. Congrats.

I had pondered doing the same, but chickened out. Upgraded my speakers, even purchased the AMP, but so many here were negative on it - from the heating and wiring aspects, I just left the factory set up in place. I had determined that the heating would be a show stopper and didn't want to introduce a wiring gremlin in the event I had to go back to the factory setup after splicing into the wiring harness. I searched everywhere for a connector that is compatible with the wiring harness, but failed on that also.

agreene604

Discussion Starter · #10 · Jan 14, 2013

No mods to the factory harness necessary. Only connections made are at each speaker. No removal of factory amp, etc. No splicing into factory harnesses, etc. I was not interested in voiding a warranty. It even sounds better with the Ipod in place.

01 winger

· #11 · Jan 14, 2013

agreene604 said:
No mods to the factory harness necessary. Only connections made are at each speaker. No removal of factory amp, etc. No splicing into factory harnesses, etc. I was not interested in voiding a warranty. It even sounds better with the Ipod in place.

Sounds like you know what you are doing nice detail enjoy your work.

TouringOn2

· #12 · Jan 15, 2013

Pug

agreene604, I like your avatar. The Pug looks good. Be safe and enjoy the ride. Larry

agreene604

Discussion Starter · #13 · Jan 15, 2013

Thanks Larry, I am new to the group. Seems like a good bunch. Regards.

TheOtherGuy

· #14 · Jan 15, 2013

agreene604 said:
No mods to the factory harness necessary. Only connections made are at each speaker. No removal of factory amp, etc. No splicing into factory harnesses, etc. I was not interested in voiding a warranty. It even sounds better with the Ipod in place.

Do I understand this as saying that the sound to the speakers is running through the factory and then through the Sony amp so in effect the Sony amp would be boosting whatever comes from the factory amp?

agreene604

Discussion Starter · #15 · Jan 15, 2013

Yes.

TheOtherGuy

· #16 · Jan 15, 2013

agreene604 said:
Yes.

Thank You!

TheOtherGuy

· #17 · Jan 15, 2013

agreene604 said:
Yes.

Then there would be no effect on the headphones right?

agreene604

Discussion Starter · #18 · Jan 15, 2013

Yes sir that is correct. My headsets work just fine. Good luck and great tunes!

ccsailor

· #19 · Feb 2, 2013

Pics please!!!

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agreene604

Discussion Starter · #20 · Feb 15, 2013

Sony Amp mounted in left rear wall of trunk.

Auto part Hood Vehicle Car

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