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Works great to take it down to metal!! I ride year round and salt is s fact of life for those who don't garage the machine in October..
I do it 2 or 3 times/year.. Thinking about powdercoat this season..
Just be careful not to get the soap on the brakes or the first couple of stops will be a bit more exciting than you might like..
 

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I didn't clean my wheels since last Oct, but I put about 1000 miles on during our mild winter. I went to clean the rear wheel and was SHOCKED in early april. I tried everything, but finally got out a Brillo/SOS Pad AND I added some COMET cleaner to the pad as well. It was LOTS of scrubbing, and it's only half clean, but better than before.
 

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I hit my wheels about three or four times a year with a green 3M pad. You can get them at hardware stores or maybe walmart. About 3 X 5 inches square. I put a couple of drops of Bombs on it and seems to work prettty good.
 

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Don't think I'd use ferrus metal pad to clean a nonferrous metal surface. (ferrus metals usually will spark when put to a grinder)

The ferrus metal (brillo pad/steel wool) will embed small ferrus metal particles into the aluminum (nonferrous metal) and cause a chemical reaction that pits and corrodes the rim. It also scratches the surface making it harder to clean each time.





chemistry 101 8)
Galvanic corrosion - The Galvanic Series assume freely corroding metal, unaffected by contact with any other substance. Galvanic corrosion is a form of electrochemical corrosion that occurs when two dissimilar metals come together in the presence of an electrolyte to form an electrical couple, known as a galvanic couple. The electrolyte is usually ordinary moisture, whether rainwater or high atmospheric humidity.When two metals form an electrical couple, an exchange of electrons takes place, its direction and intensity governed by each metal’s ranking in the Galvanic Series. The farther apart the two metals are on the Galvanic Series, the greater the potential for corrosion (see Table 2). This exchange protects the more noble (less active) metal, while causing the more active metal to corrode even faster. The more active metal gives up electrons, sacrificing itself to protect the more noble. We call the active, corroding metal the "anode" and the noble, non-corroding metal the "cathode". After the anode corrodes completely away, the cathode will again begin to corrode as reflected by its position in the Galvanic Series
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Cream of Tartar and water and a soft cloth will remove stains, and made it bright and shiney.

Or you can buy aluminum cleaner.
 

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I've used aluminum polish on a Scotch Brite pad with good results. Might try steel wool on the rear wheel because you can't really see it anyhow.....but I wouldn't use it on the front. I wish I had the ambition to wet sand and polish the front wheel. It would be a lot of work but could be made to look almost like chrome.
 

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I hate to agree with anyone whose name is "Pinkfluffybunny"!!! But he's correct. DO NOT USE STEEL WOOL on alloy wheels. It's too abrasive, it will leave behind material that rusts and it's unnceessary. Scotchbrite pads work fine.

Iv'e been using them for many years. They'll get your wheel clean and not cause any damaage.

Milt
 

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Now that's FUNNY, :lol: :lol: someone with Tweety Bird as his AVTAR, making fun of someone called PFB, I don't care who ya are now that's FUNNY :lol: :lol: :biker: Oh by the way PFB is right, basic chemistry NO Steel Wool on Aluminum, it ain't a good thing.!!!!
 

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And we heard from a MUDBUG???with a crawdad for an avatar???..... :roll: :roll:

By the way, the rabbit, the chicken, the crawdad and Alfred E Newman are all correct - keep the steel out of the aluminum...use plastic....
 

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Thanks for the info....

No more steel wool on the wheels.
Straight skinny from the Bunny, the mudbug, the little birdie, Alfred E Newman, IR and Wannabe.

:chat: :chat:
 

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Don't know about strait steel wool, never used it on the bike, but SOS pads...I've been using for years and never had a problem at all, they clean real good, just make sure you clean all the soap off, slick is slick.
 

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my wife worked in a repair design office at beech aircraft. many was the time she had to scrap ENTIRE AIRPLANES becuse some goober used a steel pad to strip paint off the aluminum skin. the iron filings would get embedded in the skin and the skin would have to be removed and replaced. if the damage was too extensive.. bye bye plane

Tragic.
 
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