They shouldn't be too hard to find.

The connector you need is a 4 pin Sumitomo HM090 female (male pins).

Amazon has them but Cycle Terminal is a good source... Motorcycle HM .090 Sealed - Connector and Terminals - they call the male pin side a male connector.

 

I guess I took the easy route and used reed switches and a magnetic disk to give me light in the bags, trunk, center pocket, and right "everything falls out" pocket.

 

Automotive & Motorcycle OEM Connectors from Japan, Europe and the USA

Eastern Beaver Japanese, USA and European made connectors for cars and motorcycles

www.easternbeaver.com

Corsa Technic

Motorsport electrical products: OEM and hard to find terminals and connector kits, wiring, harness supplies, tooling, and sensors for modern and vintage motorcycle, automotive applications. Easy online shopping, low cost shipping options, to expedited around the world. We accept Paypal and...

www.corsa-technic.com

 

@AussieChris Thanks for the info great resource to have. Ordering from here instead from Amazon

I guess that Reed switches are also a valid option but I'm aiming to keep everything as original as I could..

Thank you both!

 

After I bought mine, was disappointed to find out that we don't have these lights in a Goldwing. It was very important to me. So, I found this video and did exactly as he did, although mine is a Tour. No difference. main harness is the same. It was a bit of a job, I have to say and to do it as a very clean job, even longer. I used the button LED as he did, but a bit lower K value. I don't care for the blueish color output. I have to say, one of the most useful thing I had done on it, since new. I, also did the light in the rear pannier, but using Honda's OEM light and harness. if I am moving one day to a new wing, its the first thing for me to do.

 

After I bought mine, was disappointed to find out that we don't have these lights in a Goldwing. It was very important to me. So, I found this video and did exactly as he did, although mine is a Tour. No difference. main harness is the same. It was a bit of a job, I have to say and to do it as a very clean job, even longer. I used the button LED as he did, but a bit lower K value. I don't care for the blueish color output. I have to say, one of the most useful thing I had done on it, since new. I, also did the light in the rear pannier, but using Honda's OEM light and harness. if I am moving one day to a new wing, its the first thing for me to do.

Same video!
Lights came in this morning, waiting on the connectors...

 

Well, I went with the quick and easy route. Motion Sensing, magnetic mount rechargeable lights attached to the saddlebag lid. And the added benefit of being able to just pick them up to provide added light when/where needed.

Under Cabinet Lighting 2-Pack, 26 LED Motion Sensor Closet Light, USB Battery Operated Rechargeable Magnetic Under Cabinet Lighting (gg) https://a.co/d/d3uE5PY

 

Tried the link. Says they are unavailable. I contacted the seller. Was told they are not going to offer them anymore. Similar items show up further down the page.

 

Here is what I did using both the Sumitomo connectors and JWPF connectors (also available at Cycle Terminal).

2018+ Internal Saddlebag Lights

My six day road trip had me wanting saddlebag lights. My recent experiences helping replace two Smart Control Units with the supporting research on Fuses 24 and 15 and how the trunk light circuit works had me wary of using the trunk light circuit. So after a chat with Honda Techline, I decided...

www.gl1800riders.com

 

@Navy Gator question for you regarding the schematic in your thread:

Do I read it correctly if I assume that the power and ground for the 3 lights come from the single connector on the right side of the bike? Thanks so much!

 

I forgot to mention, I like the lights in the lid over anywhere else. A bag or a trunk totally full will have the stuff inside it blocking the light making it less useful. In the lid, it points back toward the stuff inside.

The 2 small pockets only have a 3-LED segment, again on the lid shinning into the storage area. Oh, one other benefit of "in the lid" light. It is dark and you need to do something at the battery or in my case pull the memory card from the cameras, an open bag gives me light for looking at what is under those two side covers once they are off.

 

Simple! Good idea. Any links for the lights? I know someone who would be happy with this set up.

 

@Navy Gator is probably still alsleep but yes, that is correct. A single HM090 4 pin connector supplies power for the optional trunk light harness. There is no optional saddlebag light harness so just splice your saddlebag lights in with the trunk light.

That power is controlled by the rear control unit. Opening either left or right saddlebag (or the trunk) will trigger the lights to come on. They go off automatically after a few minutes.

 

Be careful if adding more lights to the trunk light circuit. The rear Smart control unit supplies ground for the circuit and can't supply an unlimited amount of current because it uses a TTL switch of some sort in it. Several people have burned out their control unit by adding too many lights and drawing too much current from that circuit. You have been warned...

 

Very good point here. We can be safe, if each side takes very low consumption LED DOT/Button type. I have mine for almost 4 years now and using all the cases all day long. Each LED I have is only 32M AMP. So far, zero problems. So many great, bright LEDs out there and very low consumption to choose from. You don't need a Fog light in the pannier, LOL.

 

Correct.

It is a 4 pin Sumitomo connector shown in the schematic in my post.
It is one of the three connectors in the large cable boot on the right side.
There are four wires in the connector. Two for the trunk / saddlebag light and two for the Honda high mount trunk rack accessory brake light.

The trunk/saddlebag light circuit runs through the Smart Control Unit (SCU), not the Rear Control Unit (RCU) @AussieChris
Specific pins on the SCU are shown on the schematic in my post.

This thread discusses how the circuits work:

2018+ Trunk Light Circuit Diagram and Operations

If you ever want to know how the trunk light works...more complex than most folks think. It is ground switched. I would not mess with this circuit. The circuit is designed for a very small current. Anything even a little higher than design will burn it out The smart control unit does the ground...

www.gl1800riders.com

My saddlebag lights working off the circuit clearly shows that both the capability and capacity for three OEM trunk/saddlebag lights exists. Haven't had any issues during the three years saddlebag lights been installed.

I would be very cautious of the loads being added to the trunk light circuit. There is not much extra capacity. Learned that helping another rider troubleshoot and replace his SCU. You can read about that here: CLICKY
I don't know how much power each OEM light uses.

Also keep in mind that the circuit is ground switched, not power switched, just like most circuits on the bike. That can be an issue for some lights and accessories.

 

Yes, I believe you're correct, it is the Smart Control unit that provides ground, not the Rear Control unit. Somehow I got it mixed up, thanks for correcting me.

 

The plan so far is to only add 3 button LED's to that light circuit. The bike has some brake/turn LED's installed on the trunk but they are connected via an add-on connector to the harness. Planning to test all the lights and measuring the power consumption that way and post it here. Hoping to be under 75Mw for all use

 

@Navy Gator and @Fred H. you are correct - the SCU does the ground switching for the trunk light circuit, not the Rear Control Unit (it was late at night here when I said RCU).

Anyway, unless something changed on later models (but I doubt it), the trunk sub option connector is definitely 4 pin. I only ever bought 4P connectors. My service manual and ETM say 4P as well.

My combined load for the three LEDs is 70mA and I'm comfortable with that. I did increase the series resistor on each LED panel to reduce the current and knock down the brightness. It's been running like that for nearly 3 years now.

You can see my temporary connection to the 4P connector at the bottom of the photo. You'll want the red/white wire for your positive and the brown/red for your negative. Remove the right passenger grab handle to access the connector which will have a white blanking cap on it.

Oh, and the lights turn off automatically after five minutes (I just checked).

Keep us posted.

 

You should be fine here. I am a witness to no issues and I have OEM in the rear and the 2 buttons ON, at times till the timer goes off. It would be wise to use quick connect plugs for each side, just in case you need to drop a case down. And good idea to do all of this work, while batt is disconnected.

 

Click here for detailed wiring diagram: https://www.gl1800riders.com/attachments/saddle-bag-light-circuit-png.392895/

 

Best forum in the world...

 

One of the reasons I opened it, when I get to work, on my early shift, at 6am, DAILY 🍷

 

Progress report:

Found the 4wire connector (after a little fight to get it out of its hiding place). Third time is a charm with the Sumitomo connectors, it was operator error, you are supposed to solder and crimp the connectors, not just crimp them (grrr)
Per comments above decided to start with the right saddlebag. Pushed (just touched from below) the 30mm grommet and came out flying and disappeared. but I was able to get the first led installed. Will try to finish tomorrow and i will post some pics for entertainment purposes.

Again, this task would be impossible without the information and help from the site, thanks again