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Discussion Starter #1
OK, guys, need some help.

I want to replace my plug wires since they have 104k on them. Do I buy Honda or make them myself?

Any suggestions on aftermarket kit to make them out of??
 

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why?

First I'll answer the question. Direct replacement, made for the wing from our sponsors are easiest, and the autoparts stores carry "make to length" in various colors and styles. Either works.

Now - Why replace them? Just because you've got some mileage on them? Unless they have been damaged, or you have noticed a problem with them - WHY? I've got an '02, and there are some on this board with over 200K on their bikes.

If you think you've got a grounding problem with them, take your shrouds off and at night start your engine. Take a spray bottle and mist water at the plug wires. If you see some arcing-sparking, then you've got a grounding/bad insulation problem. If not, not. Old (and I mean old) wire systems had a carbon core that could break from rough handling or eventually get non-conductive due to long-term high-voltage arcing inside the cable, but I haven't seen that for a long time.

So - back to point. Please let us enquiring minds know the reason you want to change out the wires. I like to learn new things, and this has me curious.
 
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I agree with the concept of why are you climbing up of the roof if nothing's leaking?

From looking at the parts fiche, it looks like the coils are buried pretty deep in the bike, perhaps under the air cleaner / ECU assembly? This looks like a major pain in the butt to do. Any comments from Fred or Rocky?

If you are dead set on replacing them, I would go with the OEM cables. I think Hal has them for $67.10 for the set, as I recall from just looking at them myself. (I had bad ignition noise in the intercom, but it seems to have cured itself.. So my roof's not leaking right now..) The difference between the OEM cables and a make-your-own set can't be significant enough to screw around with getting the lengths right, following the routing, making sure you've got the right caps, etc. Even if the roll-your-own set is free, it would still be worth $67 to have a plug n play set. Less hassle, the right stuff for sure.

Just my thoughts..

=Dave=
GWBBA #9
rocketmoto.com
 

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If it ain't broke don't fix it. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The Reason: I took a ride up over a couple of passes in the Sierras. Everything was fine until I hit some altitude and inclines. I would be accelerating rather briskly and I would get massive missing in the 2k to 3k RPM range. After 15 minutes, I had to keep the RPMs over 3k to climb the hills.

Background: I've had some missing at low RPMs for the last 10k miles. I've added 3 different kinds of fuel and injector cleaners in that time period, 32 oz. of Sta-Bil, 2 bottles of Techron and 3 bottles of STP Fuel Injector cleaner. I have replaced the plugs twice, once with the standard BKR6E-11s and now with BKR7e-11s. I've made sure the wires are seated at both ends and have checked for arching.4

Diagnostically speaking, replacing the wires would seem to be the next step.
 

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GL 1800 spark plug wires

I too am having a terrible miss between 2-3K RPM but smooths out at over 3K. Mine is a 2005 with 216K miles I thought it might be the wires or the electronic fuel module so I took it to the local Honda dealer for just a diagnostic. I have done any maintenance that has been required myself but thought it would be easy for them to hook up to a computer and tell me what I need to replace. They said that a spark plug wire is arching and that that has to be fixed before they can look any farther. For the diagnostic and new plug wires they want $405.00 I'm not interested in them replacing parts until they find the problem so I'm looking to see if I can purchase a universal set of wires and replace them myself then see if it is still missing. Anyone know of where to get wires that will work on the wing?

Randy
 

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I too am having a terrible miss between 2-3K RPM but smooths out at over 3K. Mine is a 2005 with 216K miles I thought it might be the wires or the electronic fuel module so I took it to the local Honda dealer for just a diagnostic. I have done any maintenance that has been required myself but thought it would be easy for them to hook up to a computer and tell me what I need to replace. They said that a spark plug wire is arching and that that has to be fixed before they can look any farther. For the diagnostic and new plug wires they want $405.00 I'm not interested in them replacing parts until they find the problem so I'm looking to see if I can purchase a universal set of wires and replace them myself then see if it is still missing. Anyone know of where to get wires that will work on the wing?

Randy
Since a plug wire, or wires are bad, and they have 216k miles on them, instead of buying a generic set to test with, why not replace them like they are recommending? An entire set is less then $90.

xhttp://www.mrcycles.com/oemparts/a/hon/5053ecdaf870021c54be443d/ignition-coil-gl1800-a05
 

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GoldwingrGreg, Thanks for the link.. I have been looking at that page and ones similar but I'm not seeing any actual spark plug WIRES only the caps and clips. Am I missing something?

Randy
 

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GoldwingrGreg, Thanks for the link.. I have been looking at that page and ones similar but I'm not seeing any actual spark plug WIRES only the caps and clips. Am I missing something?

Randy
They call them cap in the diagram, but the cap listing is the whole wire.
 

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The Reason: I took a ride up over a couple of passes in the Sierras. Everything was fine until I hit some altitude and inclines. I would be accelerating rather briskly and I would get massive missing in the 2k to 3k RPM range. After 15 minutes, I had to keep the RPMs over 3k to climb the hills.

Background: I've had some missing at low RPMs for the last 10k miles. I've added 3 different kinds of fuel and injector cleaners in that time period, 32 oz. of Sta-Bil, 2 bottles of Techron and 3 bottles of STP Fuel Injector cleaner. I have replaced the plugs twice, once with the standard BKR6E-11s and now with BKR7e-11s. I've made sure the wires are seated at both ends and have checked for arching.4

Diagnostically speaking, replacing the wires would seem to be the next step.

This could be weak coil instead of a bad wire. When you replaced the spark plugs did you "read" them. That is, were there a pair of them that were more fouled than the other four. Each coil fires two spark plugs, it would be very unlikely for a coil to fail such that only one plug would be affected. So, if one plug only is more fouled; the odds are greatly in favor of that high tension lead being poor. If two plugs served by the same coil are fouled, then it is almost certain that coil is weak. Coils typically do fail in a somewhat intermittent fashion, especially at first.

Also consider how the plug boots fit onto the wires, they twist on and can get mangled under the boot if you pull the boots off the plugs by grasping high on the boot or by the wire. Use a plier and grasp mid or low on the boot. Also, a coil boot might have been pulled partly out of the coil terminal.

As I recall, you can access the three coils from the front.

AND, IF you do need wires, I suggest OE and replace one at a time to avoid miss connections.

prs
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/71rAPUizmDL._SL1500_.jpg


 
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GL1800 Doctor
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There is another possibility. You should get a voltmeter and check the power on the black/yellow wire at one of the coils with the key turned on. If it doesn't read close to the battery voltage, you could have an issue with the FI system's power distribution circuit.
 

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Pigeon Roost,

You are correct the coils can be accessed from the front, they are locate behind the black upper cowl.

2014-09-22 16.02.23.jpg
 

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Pigeon,

I might be misunderstanding what you wrote.
I think that one bad plug wire or one bad plug would foul both plugs that fire from the same coil since they are in series.
 

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GoldwingrGreg, Thanks for the link.. I have been looking at that page and ones similar but I'm not seeing any actual spark plug WIRES only the caps and clips. Am I missing something?

Randy
Parts 4-9 are the plug wires. The others could be correct about having other problems. However, since a service professional is saying a plug wire(s) are bad, I'd take the techs recommendation and replace them as a set. One can justify doing it as PM also.

http://www.mrcycles.com/oemparts/a/hon/5053ecdaf870021c54be443d/ignition-coil-gl1800-a05
 

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Pigeon,

I might be misunderstanding what you wrote.
I think that one bad plug wire or one bad plug would foul both plugs that fire from the same coil since they are in series.
Well, pull a pair of plugs of same healthy coil. Re-attach both to high tension leads and ground plugs to frame. Crank engine and observe spark. Remove one of the high tension leads from coil connection to mimic a failed high tension lead. Hold the other (still connected) spark plug in your hand with your hand against the engine block. Crank engine and report back to use the result. :22yikes:

Frankly, I am not sure if each lead has its own secondary windings in the coil (but doubt it) or if they share the secondary in parallel (my suspicion) or maybe series (kinda hard to wrap my head around the series thing though).

prs
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Sorry I didn't get back to this thread.

My problem turned out to be bad vacuum tubes. I had the shelter pulled to replace the air filter, spark plug wires and general inspection. The mechanic saw the corroded and leaking vacuum tubes. After replacing the tubes, air filter and wires the bike ran great.

The replacing of the spark plug wires was not necessary. In fact, it caused a problem later when replacing the plugs, the wires separated from the plug connectors. I have subsequently replaced the automotive cut-to-fit wires with OEM wires.

A suggestion made by the mechanic is to replace the rubber vacuum tubes every time you replace or clean the air filter. Since you are there anyway, the $2 of rubber tubes is worth it.
 

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These vacuum tubes, did you see them? Was your mechanic talking about the fuel tank vent, or maybe the PAIR (secondary air) tubes? This may be a senior moment, but I do not recall vacuum tubes. Maybe under the air box, but I do not recall. If I was not so lazy, I would go look at the schematics.

prs
 

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A suggestion made by the mechanic is to replace the rubber vacuum tubes every time you replace or clean the air filter. Since you are there anyway, the $2 of rubber tubes is worth it.
The secondary air supply and the evaporative emission control systems are often over looked and suppose to be inspected frequently (every 8k and every 12k respectfully). You are correct, the hoses are cheap. Most don't know what the tell-tale signs are when needing replaced.
 
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