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Discussion Starter #1
Know what the manual says but what brand of plugs do you like the best and how often do you change plugs? Thanks for your help.
 

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I bought the original equipment kind from Hal last summer before an 8K mile Ride. When I pulled them they were like new still with about 20K on 'em so I left them in.

They are still in and Ridin' the Smokys the last two days I got over 40 mpg. I think I'll leave them in there a while yet.
thecruiser
 

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hooverimage,
remember the old saying,,"let a sleeping dog lie"? this is pretty much the way i look at spark plugs be it ,an m/c ,cage,,boat,,etc. as long as the thing isnt missing don't mess with it.
some guys like tinkering with this type of stuff,,which there is nothing wrong with that. but lotsa time they end up in trouble doing stuff like this too.AKA: cross threading the plugs,,,:eek:4:,,,drop something down the spark plug hole. I have heard it all over the years of biking...:)
if you decide to replace them ,call around for pricing at parts houses,,and buy the cheapest ones you can find. this will be the 'best brand" and you will 'feel good' having done the swap yourself :lol:...

take care,
bc
 

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IRIDEUMS!!1 (SPELLING!!!) GOOD FOR 100,000 miles! 7 bucks at autozone/advance/oriellys
 

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Plugs are more efficient when new. They fire a better spark with "edges" on the center electrode rather than rounded off.
 

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O.e.m's
 

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E3 spark plugs burn fuel more effectively and I get more out of a tank with them.
 

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Hooverimage- "Know what the manual says but what brand of plugs do you like the best and how often do you change plugs? Thanks for your help."


The Honda GL-1800 Service Manual states on the OEM NGK Plug gap: "0.039 - 0.043", installed at a Torgue of 13 Ft-LBS. Every 16K miles.

Changed mine (almost 25K miles), OEM NGK Plugs, new one's 0.043 out of the box and I put them at same. Plan on changing again @ 40K w/OEM's.
OEM's all were 0.046 with a couple being a little white on top?

I was getting 42 MPG before and will be checking on what I will be getting now.
__________________
 

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It's OEMs for me. Always got them from the sponsor of this board.

Just as you are about to put the wrench on the first spark plug, blow a burst of compressed air in the cavity to dislodge anything that you don't want to fall into the engine.

Add a dab of never-seeze to the threads being careful not to smudge the electrodes, and torque the plugs to 13 ft. lbs.

Most importantly, never, EVER change the spark plugs on a hot engine. Make sure the engine has completely cooled down.

Good luck with your wrenching.
 

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It's OEMs for me. Always got them from the sponsor of this board.

Just as you are about to put the wrench on the first spark plug, blow a burst of compressed air in the cavity to dislodge anything that you don't want to fall into the engine.

Add a dab of never-seeze to the threads being careful not to smudge the electrodes, and torque the plugs to 13 ft. lbs.

Most importantly, never, EVER change the spark plugs on a hot engine. Make sure the engine has completely cooled down.

Good luck with your wrenching.
I assume you are torquing maintained spark plugs to 13 ft./lbs and not new plugs:?: The service manual only addresses the torque for re-installing used or maintained plugs.
The manual that came with your bike gives you two values to install spark plugs. One is for the initial install to seat the sealing washer. The other being 13 ft./lbs is for a used plug that has been previously installed with its sealing washer seated.
Only install a new plug to 13 ft./lbs if you are feeling lucky.
The never-seize is no longer necessary as new plugs come with an advanced coating (plating) that does not need any additional coatings :thumbup:.

http://gl1800riders.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3331220&postcount=86
 

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OEM and 20K sounds about right
plugs are cheap
 

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