Speed bleeders
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Speed bleeders work well. They make bleeding a one person job. Just open the bleeder and pump away. The GL1800 has eight bleeders counting the clutch bleeder. I didn't want to permanently install them so I bought one of these: http://www.kneedraggers.com/details/Motion_Pro_Hydraulic_Brake_Bleeder--56-MP-25.html. You could also use one speed bleeder and accomplish the same function.
I've had the Speed Bleeders on the bike for about 2 1/2 years, and it was one of the better installs I've done. Easy and fast bleeding. Well worth the price. It only takes a 1/4 turn, and the Locktite can be reapplied if it wears off. (hasn't happened yet).
Doug
Doug
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1,095 Posts
I have been VERY unhappy with my foot brake. I have taken it to the dealer twice for the same thing, but they can't find the problem . Feels like mush when I first hit the thing, but after a pump, feels firm like it should. Gets worse as the brakes heat up. This product might work for me..
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3,809 Posts
You can accomplish the same thing with a piece of hose attached to the bleed valve and put the other end of the hose into a bottle with some brake fluid. Then open the bleeder and pump the brake lever. The fluid in the bottle will not allow air to reenter the system
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3,033 Posts
Hey Rinkopr,Rinkopr said:
Just a few comments, mostly about procedure,
(in case the dealer mechanic is having an off day)
hoping it's just the fluid, and this will help with your problem.
That heating up part sounds like some moisture in the rear brake system.
When it gets hot the moisture makes it worse.
We put a vacuum bleeder on the line and pulled about a quart of new brake fluid
through to flush out the system and that got the mush out of the brakes on a problem case.
There are a bunch of places to bleed the brakes on a Wing with F/R proportioning and anti-dive.
and you have to go through them in the right order to be effective.
You have to be careful to use a newly opened container of brake fluid that has been sitting quiet
for some hours and poor it in slow and steady so air bubbles don't get in the mix.
(Never shake brake fluid or put it in the system if it's been shaken.)
It can take a long time to work the bubbles of air out,
especially if there were a lot of small bubbles trapped in the fluid,
as they tend to stick to the sides of the lines and in corners of the reservoirs.
Hope it's just fluid problems. Good Luck.
DC
I need some education please. I have never used speed bleeders. IF I wanted to use these, do you buy one for each bleeder screw and leave it on there? do they get in the way of anything? I usually use the hose in a bottle method because it does not make a mess. Thanks for the suggestions in advance.
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17,666 Posts
Toyo;
They are intended to be installed permanently and are no more in the way than are the original bleeders. BUT; they are $$.
So, there is one variation sold that comes as a single unit installed into plastic tube that you use inline with each original bleeder. Some folks say its OK to purchase one of the standard speed bleeders and then to insert that into a piece of tubing yourself, but the bleeder or tubing wouldhave to be modified as the tubing will block off the entrance hole of the bleeder otherwise. I followed that last method and it worked easily; but then again, I always do those last few "pumps" very slowly and with the standard bleedeer firmly closed upon release, otherwise it is possible for air to be sucked in around the outermost threads. I am temepted to install the speed bleeders all around.
prs
They are intended to be installed permanently and are no more in the way than are the original bleeders. BUT; they are $$.
So, there is one variation sold that comes as a single unit installed into plastic tube that you use inline with each original bleeder. Some folks say its OK to purchase one of the standard speed bleeders and then to insert that into a piece of tubing yourself, but the bleeder or tubing wouldhave to be modified as the tubing will block off the entrance hole of the bleeder otherwise. I followed that last method and it worked easily; but then again, I always do those last few "pumps" very slowly and with the standard bleedeer firmly closed upon release, otherwise it is possible for air to be sucked in around the outermost threads. I am temepted to install the speed bleeders all around.
prs
I'll echo the comment on the Speedbleeders being one of the better installs on the Goldwing. Just a great way to make the process of bleeding the brake and clutch lines really easy for "1" person to do. I would definitely suggest that you also get the small plastic bag and tubing that is also available when you order online that runs about $5.00 and that eliminates any mess of fluid leaking on the floor. The Speed Bleeders make this job one that can be done in about 15 to 20 minutes once the bleeders are installed and left on the bike.
DaleC
DaleC
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17,666 Posts
Toyo; I suggest you go out in your garage and count them; I "believe" there are two on the rear caliper, two in each front caliper, one on antidive, and one on clutch. So I reckon thar be 8 and I don't "think" ABS makes any difference in the count -- but I could be wrong.
prs
ps: I changed the brake fluid on my VTX tonight and it was a snap -- two reservoirs and two bleeders. Its low milage and only 2 years old, but it sure was in need of a change - yucky ornage OE fluid and some solids in each reservoir -- good riddance!
prs
ps: I changed the brake fluid on my VTX tonight and it was a snap -- two reservoirs and two bleeders. Its low milage and only 2 years old, but it sure was in need of a change - yucky ornage OE fluid and some solids in each reservoir -- good riddance!
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Where would a good place to purchase the speed bleeders be. Auto Parts Place?
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