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Discussion Starter #1
Any help that anybody can provide on these questions is greatly appreciated:
1. Will a 2010 starter fit a 2006 ABS Airbag?
2. I can't find the starter relay A or B on the Honda Directline website, can anybody point me in the correct direction to find them?
3. To push start a Goldwing, which gear is best to do it in? I'm thinking 1st, but am not sure.

A little follow-up info:
I took my 2006 Goldwing [30,000 miles on it] to the dealer for a safety inspection yesterday. Stopped first and washed it. Took it to the dealer. Service manager started it and took it back into the shop. When the mechanic tried to start it to bring it into the bay, it wouldn't start. I'm getting a loud click from the solenoid as usual, but the engine is not turning. Battery tested ok, also put a booster battery on it - no difference. I'm picking it up from the dealer today to bring it home and start troubleshooting. I found a great thread on this forum for troubleshooting, plus I have the service manual. The dealer wants $650 just for the starter motor (which they suspect is the problem), plus labor. I'm thinking used or after-market - any opinions on the after-market? Also, the dealer said that getting water on a hot starter could cause it to seize up - has anybody ever heard of this?

Thanks in advance for any help that can be provided - I really appreciate it.

Elkman
 

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starter relays vary in price wildly since Honda moved production back home. Oddly, the manufacturing of the relays are the same from China Taiwan or wherever. Likely the same relay you get on eBay for $10 and A&B are the same except for color and if you know which one you are changing you won't plug them into the wrong place. Mark them with paint if you need to.

>eBay relays<

Have you tried reverse? That works off the starter motor too.

>eBay starter<

the dealer said that getting water on a hot starter could cause it to seize up - has anybody ever heard of this? No, why would your starter be hot?? It worked fine for you. I have my suspicions about that dealer and since it happened on their watch they should be responsible for everything.

It might be the button.

>CLICK ME<
 

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starter relays vary in price wildly since Honda moved production back home. Oddly, the manufacturing of the relays are the same from China Taiwan or wherever. Likely the same relay you get on eBay for $10 and A&B are the same except for color and if you know which one you are changing you won't plug them into the wrong place. Mark them with paint if you need to.

>eBay relays<

Have you tried reverse? That works off the starter motor too.

>eBay starter<

the dealer said that getting water on a hot starter could cause it to seize up - has anybody ever heard of this? No, why would your starter be hot?? It worked fine for you. I have my suspicions about that dealer and since it happened on their watch they should be responsible for everything.
I agree with Waldo regarding trust level in that service department. Given the history and symptoms you report the first thing I would check is the ground strap at the right side of bike on the reverse shift mechanism. Then the battery cables. I have not had starter problems on a Gold Wing, but on some old beater cars I have and a stuck start motor does not give the typical low voltage relay clicks; it makes a brief high pitched ring-like electronic noise EEEeeeee, then you get some slow relay clicks as the battery dumps charge. In my business, if the product develops a symptom while in my possession, I am responsible! My rule, but such seems to be common sense and courtesy. Unless you have the fuel tank out, it would be unlikely for significant water to reach the starter motor.

prs
 

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GL1800 Doctor
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Check the easy stuff first, does the FI light come on with the key? Is the kill switch in "run"? Is it in neutral with a good neutral light on? Highly unlikely that it's the starter motor.
 

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If I suspected the starter the first thing I would try to do is, tap on the starter housing with the handle of a hammer or something similar. If the brushes are caked up this might jar the loose brush dust off and allow it to start. I would then look into getting new brushes for the starter motor. Worth a try.
 

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Also, the dealer said that getting water on a hot starter could cause it to seize up - has anybody ever heard of this?

Thanks in advance for any help that can be provided - I really appreciate it.

Elkman
Both mine have been washed many times in a coin op car wash. Don't think you washing it was the issue,
 

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Any help that anybody can provide on these questions is greatly appreciated:
1. Will a 2010 starter fit a 2006 ABS Airbag?
2. I can't find the starter relay A or B on the Honda Directline website, can anybody point me in the correct direction to find them?
3. To push start a Goldwing, which gear is best to do it in? I'm thinking 1st, but am not sure.

A little follow-up info:
I took my 2006 Goldwing [30,000 miles on it] to the dealer for a safety inspection yesterday. Stopped first and washed it. Took it to the dealer. Service manager started it and took it back into the shop. When the mechanic tried to start it to bring it into the bay, it wouldn't start. I'm getting a loud click from the solenoid as usual, but the engine is not turning. Battery tested ok, also put a booster battery on it - no difference. I'm picking it up from the dealer today to bring it home and start troubleshooting. I found a great thread on this forum for troubleshooting, plus I have the service manual. The dealer wants $650 just for the starter motor (which they suspect is the problem), plus labor. I'm thinking used or after-market - any opinions on the after-market? Also, the dealer said that getting water on a hot starter could cause it to seize up - has anybody ever heard of this?

Thanks in advance for any help that can be provided - I really appreciate it.

Elkman

Sent you a PM.
 

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Not only is the engine kill switch in the run position, but if you don't use it on a regular basis, turn back and forth a dozen times, then put it in the run position and try to start it.

John
 

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If the kill switch is off, the bike will do absolutely nothing at a press of the start switch. No relays clicking, no nuttin' at all. Start switch is dead. Just turns off the headlights with a press.
 

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If I suspected the starter the first thing I would try to do is, tap on the starter housing with the handle of a hammer or something similar. If the brushes are caked up this might jar the loose brush dust off and allow it to start. I would then look into getting new brushes for the starter motor. Worth a try.

I too suggested this and some other ideas in a PM to Elk Man because I experienced the same symptoms as he is describing with the no start issue.
I chose to replace the starter due to a recent trip and did not want to be at the mercy of a repair "shop" if things went south with the starter.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Update on Starter Issue

Wow - thanks for the great advice and links! And thank you SlowMotion for the PM sharing your experiences with similar starter issue. You convinced me to up my hammer size and try tapping harder tomorrow. :lol:

Here's an update of what I've done so far. First, I went to the dealer and picked up my bike, had them push start me out of their shop - and, yes, I used 2nd gear and it started right up. Bike ran great all of the way home. Put it in my workshop, shut it off, tried re-starting, and tried many of the suggestions above. Still doing the same thing. Reverse does not work either. As far as the FI light, it comes on for maybe 3 seconds and then shuts off. I've worked the kill, starter, and ignition switches numerous times. I also blew out and sprayed contact cleaner above the starter switch and in ignition switch, and worked them, but nothing helps. As far as the neutral light, it lights up bright like always. Other than doing this, I checked all the fuses, and changed the engine oil and filter while the bike was still warm - that's all I'm going to be able to get done today.

What I'm planning on doing in the morning is start with the electrical and try to find some of the ground cables and check for tightness. I'm going to pull the saddlebag off and check out the relays and follow the advice to put power directly to the starter cable and see if it cranks.

I really appreciate the help and advice you guys are providing.

Elk Man
 

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GL1800 Doctor
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Wow - thanks for the great advice and links! And thank you SlowMotion for the PM sharing your experiences with similar starter issue. You convinced me to up my hammer size and try tapping harder tomorrow. :lol:

Here's an update of what I've done so far. First, I went to the dealer and picked up my bike, had them push start me out of their shop - and, yes, I used 2nd gear and it started right up. Bike ran great all of the way home. Put it in my workshop, shut it off, tried re-starting, and tried many of the suggestions above. Still doing the same thing. Reverse does not work either. As far as the FI light, it comes on for maybe 3 seconds and then shuts off. I've worked the kill, starter, and ignition switches numerous times. I also blew out and sprayed contact cleaner above the starter switch and in ignition switch, and worked them, but nothing helps. As far as the neutral light, it lights up bright like always. Other than doing this, I checked all the fuses, and changed the engine oil and filter while the bike was still warm - that's all I'm going to be able to get done today.

What I'm planning on doing in the morning is start with the electrical and try to find some of the ground cables and check for tightness. I'm going to pull the saddlebag off and check out the relays and follow the advice to put power directly to the starter cable and see if it cranks.

I really appreciate the help and advice you guys are providing.

Elk Man
OK, I would be glad to walk you through some tests in the morning that will narrow this down without taking unnecessary stuff off of the bike. There's 2 tests that you can do that will tell you what the relays behind the saddlebag are doing without removing the bag. I will be up and online around 8am eastern time if you need the help.
 

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Its easy to check if the starter is good or bad. Just jump from the batt + to the cable going to the starter motor.
 

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I've got your good used starter if you need it, but IMHO, you won't. Will be watching...
 

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Discussion Starter #16
OK, I would be glad to walk you through some tests in the morning that will narrow this down without taking unnecessary stuff off of the bike. There's 2 tests that you can do that will tell you what the relays behind the saddlebag are doing without removing the bag. I will be up and online around 8am eastern time if you need the help.
Thank you for your great offer. Unfortunately, my workshop is 1/4-mile down the driveway and there's no wi-fi or cell phone service available there. Again, thanks for your generous offer.

Elk Man
 

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Its easy to check if the starter is good or bad. Just jump from the batt + to the cable going to the starter motor.
I just had the same problem last week and took it to the shop they told me it was the starter. after thinking about it I went back to pick it up from the shop to take it home to try to fix it myself. I call Wimpy and he walked me through how to check it. After doing what he said it ended up being the Starter Relay next to the battery not the starter. What I did first is took the left side saddle bag loose and moved it back just enough to get to the relays easily then I took a heavy duty jumper wire with a alligator clip on one end and I attached that one to the Right side Relay the one that the starter wire attaches to then the other end of the wire I touched to the positive side on the battery. It will spark some but if the starter turns over then its still good. You have two Relays I changed them both. Bike starts great again. I purchased them at Service Honda 800-828-5498. I think they are around $53.00 ea if thats your problem.
Hope this helps you like it did me.
Gary
 

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Thank you for your great offer. Unfortunately, my workshop is 1/4-mile down the driveway and there's no wi-fi or cell phone service available there. Again, thanks for your generous offer.

Elk Man
I assume he meant by posting on this forum. A little slower than live, but quite effective.

(After all, you DID post here looking for help.)
 

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Thank you for your great offer. Unfortunately, my workshop is 1/4-mile down the driveway and there's no wi-fi or cell phone service available there. Again, thanks for your generous offer.

Elk Man
I understand, I'll tell you how to do the 2 tests and then you can do them when you get there. First, get your handheld volt meter and pull the left side cover off so you can get to the fuses. Put your black lead on the battery's negative post and then put the red lead on the fuse labeled "RVS FUSE A" and then turn on the key and hit the starter button. Make sure you are in neutral with a good neutral light before running the test. You should read nearly the battery voltage on the meter while you are holding the starter button in. If you get the voltage reading there, then you either have a bad starter motor or a loose cable going to it. If you don't get the voltage there, then do this second test. Move your red lead to the fuse labeled "RVS FUSE B" and hit the button again. You should read the full battery voltage there, if you do, then this means the "A" starter relay is working and there's an issue with the "B" starter relay or it's control circuit. If you don't get the voltage there, then your "A" starter relay has an issue or it's control circuit does. Hopefully these results will help. Good luck and I will be home all morning, so let me know what your results are and I can point you to the possibilities and where to go next. I have all the schematics if you need them as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
...First, get your handheld volt meter and pull the left side cover off so you can get to the fuses. Put your black lead on the battery's negative post and then put the red lead on the fuse labeled "RVS FUSE A" and then turn on the key and hit the starter button. Make sure you are in neutral with a good neutral light before running the test. You should read nearly the battery voltage on the meter while you are holding the starter button in. If you get the voltage reading there, then you either have a bad starter motor or a loose cable going to it.

If you don't get the voltage there, then do this second test. Move your red lead to the fuse labeled "RVS FUSE B" and hit the button again. You should read the full battery voltage there, if you do, then this means the "A" starter relay is working and there's an issue with the "B" starter relay or it's control circuit. If you don't get the voltage there, then your "A" starter relay has an issue or it's control circuit does...
Here's the voltage readings:
• Battery voltage w/out starter engaged: 12.4
• Battery voltage with starter engaged: 11.5

Note: Battery is getting low, so put the charger back on it. However, at the dealer's the battery was tested good and we put a booster jumper on it - still wouldn't start with the booster on it.

• Voltage reading on RVS Fuse A: 1 volt
• Voltage reading on RVS Fuse B: 11.5

Thank you for any feedback.

(From: Elk Man's Cheap, Hired Helper and Go-fer)
 
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