Ok, take your voltmeter and check the voltage on RVS A Fuse and RVS B Fuses while you are holding the starter button in. You should get full battery power on both. Use the battery negative post for ground.2003 non ABS
good battery and load tested ok.
When I hit the start button I hear a clunk near LH saddlebag/battery area. I ASSume it is Relay A or B or both.
The starter does not crank.
Side stand down switch appears to work...the light works as it should.
The headlights go out when I hit the start button as it should.
The bike is not in reverse
battery voltage with start button engaged is 12.2 otherwise it is about 12.45/
Make sure you get a good neutral light while in neutral. If the power is good on the A fuse, then both relays are working and you probably have a bad starter. If it’s good on the B fuse, but not the A fuse, then it’s an issue with the B relay or it’s associated ground control circuit. If it’s missing on both fuses, then it’s an issue with the A relay or it’s associated ground circuit or it’s power circuit which includes the starter button switch and circuit. If the radio mutes when the starter button is pushed, then it’s not the starter button switch.I will do that. Thanks. Will advise.
11.7V is enough to turn the starter, I would pull the left saddlebag loose enough to check the cable mounting nuts on the relays. If they’re tight, pulling the starter is your next move. If the battery were too low to spin it, the A fuse voltage should have dropped well below 11.7V. Fuse #10 will be powered any time the key is on, but A and B, #11, #12 are only hot with the starter button pushed and everything correct for starting.So I went out this AM and was surprised to find I only got 11.7 VDC at those two fuses with starter button pushed. Actually, Fuse 10 has voltage all the time, key on, regardless of starter button pushed or not, but I think that is normal, the way I read the wire diagram.
Key off = 12.5v
Key on = 11.7v
something weird going on. Yesterday it load tested good, but 2 year old batter may be suspect.
Anyway, I have to suspect a battery...anybody have an opinion? Is 11.7 too low to crank the starter? I put a jumper cable on but am not convinced I had a good connection (starter still didn't crank.
This sounds like a rusted brush spring in the starter is causing the starter to not even load the battery. Of course, it could be an open armature winding as well, but those aren’t common on this starter. Rusted brush springs are pretty common. The RVS A fuse voltage is a direct sample of the voltage being applied to the starter.Just to clarify...with Key On, voltage was 11.7. No change in voltage with start button pushed.
They 'bump' start pretty easy. I've done it (on flat ground, and by myself) when one (1832) had a weak battery.Sounds more and more like it.
My master plan was to put in on the trailer and head for AZ next week. Have to think about how to get it on the trailer if I cant start the engine. should be fun.
The volts drop to zero on #10 when you push the starter button? Are you sure it’s fuse 10, the fuse labeled “Reverse Start”? If relay A is bad or has a problem, it will fail to energize and by failing, it fails to send power to relay B to energize and send it on to the starter. If relay A has a problem, both the “RVS A“ fuse and the “RVS B” fuses will have no voltage on them when the button is pushed. These fuses are #11 and #12.So for Techdude, since Fuse 10 has power all the time from the battery, why would the starter button being pushed drive volts to zero if relay A was bad?