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Discussion Starter #1
I note the part numbers are different, but is there any physical or electrical difference that prevents swapping they around for trouble shooting?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
2003 non ABS

good battery and load tested ok.

When I hit the start button I hear a clunk near LH saddlebag/battery area. I ASSume it is Relay A or B or both.

The starter does not crank.

Side stand down switch appears to work...the light works as it should.
The headlights go out when I hit the start button as it should.
The bike is not in reverse
battery voltage with start button engaged is 12.2 otherwise it is about 12.45/
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Sullivap, that is what I suspected, that A and B were the same except for color. THANKS for the help!
 

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GL1800 Doctor
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2003 non ABS

good battery and load tested ok.

When I hit the start button I hear a clunk near LH saddlebag/battery area. I ASSume it is Relay A or B or both.

The starter does not crank.

Side stand down switch appears to work...the light works as it should.
The headlights go out when I hit the start button as it should.
The bike is not in reverse
battery voltage with start button engaged is 12.2 otherwise it is about 12.45/
Ok, take your voltmeter and check the voltage on RVS A Fuse and RVS B Fuses while you are holding the starter button in. You should get full battery power on both. Use the battery negative post for ground.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I will do that. Thanks. Will advise.
 

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GL1800 Doctor
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I will do that. Thanks. Will advise.
Make sure you get a good neutral light while in neutral. If the power is good on the A fuse, then both relays are working and you probably have a bad starter. If it’s good on the B fuse, but not the A fuse, then it’s an issue with the B relay or it’s associated ground control circuit. If it’s missing on both fuses, then it’s an issue with the A relay or it’s associated ground circuit or it’s power circuit which includes the starter button switch and circuit. If the radio mutes when the starter button is pushed, then it’s not the starter button switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So I went out this AM and was surprised to find I only got 11.7 VDC at those two fuses with starter button pushed. Actually, Fuse 10 has voltage all the time, key on, regardless of starter button pushed or not, but I think that is normal, the way I read the wire diagram.

Key off = 12.5v
Key on = 11.7v

something weird going on. Yesterday it load tested good, but 2 year old batter may be suspect.

Anyway, I have to suspect a battery...anybody have an opinion? Is 11.7 too low to crank the starter? I put a jumper cable on but am not convinced I had a good connection (starter still didn't crank.
 

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GL1800 Doctor
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So I went out this AM and was surprised to find I only got 11.7 VDC at those two fuses with starter button pushed. Actually, Fuse 10 has voltage all the time, key on, regardless of starter button pushed or not, but I think that is normal, the way I read the wire diagram.

Key off = 12.5v
Key on = 11.7v

something weird going on. Yesterday it load tested good, but 2 year old batter may be suspect.

Anyway, I have to suspect a battery...anybody have an opinion? Is 11.7 too low to crank the starter? I put a jumper cable on but am not convinced I had a good connection (starter still didn't crank.
11.7V is enough to turn the starter, I would pull the left saddlebag loose enough to check the cable mounting nuts on the relays. If they’re tight, pulling the starter is your next move. If the battery were too low to spin it, the A fuse voltage should have dropped well below 11.7V. Fuse #10 will be powered any time the key is on, but A and B, #11, #12 are only hot with the starter button pushed and everything correct for starting.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Just to clarify...with Key On, voltage was 11.7. No change in voltage with start button pushed.
 

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GL1800 Doctor
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Just to clarify...with Key On, voltage was 11.7. No change in voltage with start button pushed.
This sounds like a rusted brush spring in the starter is causing the starter to not even load the battery. Of course, it could be an open armature winding as well, but those aren’t common on this starter. Rusted brush springs are pretty common. The RVS A fuse voltage is a direct sample of the voltage being applied to the starter.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Sounds more and more like it.

My master plan was to put in on the trailer and head for AZ next week. Have to think about how to get it on the trailer if I cant start the engine. should be fun.
 

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We had a bike with a bad starter on 1 of our Lake Superior circle tours. They would rig up a rope to a pull bike and have the guy being pulled hold the rope. They would start rolling and the towed bike would then pop the clutch to start his cold (overnight) bike, then let go of the rope and the front bike would continue pulling out of the way. They had a good system going and did this several times a day for 4 days. They were good friends anyhow and marines I think. Leave no man behind. It was fun teasing them SOME.
 

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Sounds more and more like it.

My master plan was to put in on the trailer and head for AZ next week. Have to think about how to get it on the trailer if I cant start the engine. should be fun.
They 'bump' start pretty easy. I've done it (on flat ground, and by myself) when one (1832) had a weak battery.
Of course easier if you can get someone to give you a little push.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
So for Techdude, since Fuse 10 has power all the time from the battery, why would the starter button being pushed drive volts to zero if relay A was bad?
 

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GL1800 Doctor
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So for Techdude, since Fuse 10 has power all the time from the battery, why would the starter button being pushed drive volts to zero if relay A was bad?
The volts drop to zero on #10 when you push the starter button? Are you sure it’s fuse 10, the fuse labeled “Reverse Start”? If relay A is bad or has a problem, it will fail to energize and by failing, it fails to send power to relay B to energize and send it on to the starter. If relay A has a problem, both the “RVS A“ fuse and the “RVS B” fuses will have no voltage on them when the button is pushed. These fuses are #11 and #12.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Well call that a DS attack on my part. I looked at the page 19-2 diagram and pulled our fuse 10 (RVS Start A) not RVS fuse A. Guess since I didn't see #11 on the diagram I ASSumed you meant #10).

Frankly, my pea brain goes into shutdown mode just looking at the Reverse diagrams where fuse #11 can be found. Will head out NOW and check fuse 11.

THANKS for doing more than just looking at my response above, but for THINKING about what I wrote.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
OK checked fuses #11 and #12 again. So with starter button pushed:

#11 = 11.97V
#12 = 12.02V

Zero volts with button not pushed.

My master plan (rev 1) is

1. replace both solenoids
2. remove and inspect/rebuild/replace starter (and fuel hoses etc)(air filter)
3. May as well change out the rear spring and hose etc.

I plan to push the bike to the nearest cliff, dive off and attempt bump start. If I make a successful landing I intend to load the bike on a trailer while it is still running.
 
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