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I will be mounting a rear tire soon and will need to check the balance when I'm done. What to you guys (the ones that use a static balancer) use for balancing the rear tire?
 

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Since I don't do tires, and when I shop for new hoops I always ask "do you use Honda weights?" The answer everywhere in my town now is no, so I eliminated that problem by going to Centramatics.

I am looking forwad to getting new hoops and trying them to see how much longer my tire life is.
 

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I have had good luck with stick-on weights. I use 3M double stick foam tape for attaching them to the rims and have never lost one yet.
 

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Not quite sure whether you're asking what tool to check balance, or weights to correct it. I use the balancer that comes with the full Cycle Hill Tire Changer package, and have two of each Honda clipon weights that are reusable (and should be for /- $8!) before I put the wheels back next to their Centramatic buddies :lol:
 

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CENTRAMATIC and don't think aboutic
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I was looking for what others use to balance the wheels.
I will be ordering the Marc Parnes kit which looks like it will take care of business.
 

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I was looking for what others use to balance the wheels.
I will be ordering the Marc Parnes kit which looks like it will take care of business.

Bo you can use a couple concrete blocks and a rod and a couple rubber cones .

That is a terrible price for a balancing kit, most likely it is because it so for a BMW. :roll: And you still have to spend another 60 bucks for jack stands.

There are a few things that Harbor Freight simply cannot mess up. Their little motorcycle balance jig for less than 50 bucks is easily adequate for the occasional tire balance. Not much of a way to mess that up, and that particular product is O.K.

You do not spin a tire to static balance it, all you need is a good support, and something that will roll freely. Simple as that.
 

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The HF balancer uses a soft steel axle that always has a bend in it. I could balance a tire and then move the axle in relation to the wheel, and the balance would change.
 

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Used the Marc Parnes balancer for many years.

Good tool.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Bo you can use a couple concrete blocks and a rod and a couple rubber cones .

That is a terrible price for a balancing kit, most likely it is because it so for a BMW. :roll: And you still have to spend another 60 bucks for jack stands.

There are a few things that Harbor Freight simply cannot mess up. Their little motorcycle balance jig for less than 50 bucks is easily adequate for the occasional tire balance. Not much of a way to mess that up, and that particular product is O.K.

You do not spin a tire to static balance it, all you need is a good support, and something that will roll freely. Simple as that.
Well, it all makes sence. If I can find some good cones I can make this work. I have the stands and some good bearings for supporting the axle.
The cones for the rear wheel is the problem. For a lot less money I should be able to come up with something.
 

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Well, it all makes sence. If I can find some good cones I can make this work. I have the stands and some good bearings for supporting the axle.
The cones for the rear wheel is the problem. For a lot less money I should be able to come up with something.
Lowes has tapered rubber stoppers. Get a couple and secure in a drill press and drill a hole through the middle of them, just a tiny bit smaller than the rod you will use. Slip one on and glue it in place. Leave the the other one loose. Now you can slide the rod through the axle, push the rubber cone up there and the friction fit will hold it in place.

Or have a machine shop turn a couple on a lathe, take them home, drill and tap a hole into one side, install a set screw and you have it.

For all I know you can buy the cones by themselves, sure you can if you know where to find them. Someone will be along that knows where you can buy just the tapered cones.
 

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I was looking for what others use to balance the wheels.
I will be ordering the Marc Parnes kit which looks like it will take care of business.
I had and sold the Marc pharnes balancer.It was a good product but a PITA to find to even height objects to set it up on.

So one day HF has a sale on these http://www.harborfreight.com/motorcycle-wheel-balancing-stand-98488.html

I got it a few years ago for $29. Much easier to use too.and a bottom tray for my weights too.
 

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The HF balancer uses a soft steel axle that always has a bend in it. I could balance a tire and then move the axle in relation to the wheel, and the balance would change.
I disagree.I've had mine for a few years and I do go through tires.

You must of or the bar was dropped by someone before you bought it. :shrug:

I just rolled my bar by itself on a flat table and it's true.go fugure. :doorag:
 

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Discussion Starter #17

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Discussion Starter #18
Kit, can you recall the size of the rod you use and does it fit both wheels of your GL1800?
 

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You don't need pails, cement blocks etc. Since I tig weld for others, they leave me the scraps. I just took 2 "C" clamps and clamped the scrap channels to a Sears jack and it is perfect for the Marc Parnes static balancer. Takes about 5 minutes to set up and his Universal unit works for front & back wheels with no additional adapters needed :nojoke:.
You could also substitute 2 pieces of 2"x4" wood with larger "C" clamps for the aluminum arms I used.
With common sense you could cantilever the arms from a porch deck, table etc.
Forget about the washers and nylon stuff at the balancer. Just scrap stuff I had laying around. Two nails on each 2" x 4" wood rail would hold the bearings from moving. That stuff I added is what you do when it rains every day and TV sucks :evil::22yikes:


:shock:
The key to a good balancer is the precision used in manufacturing the adapter cones and the trueness of the support rod (I use drill rod). Do not use common rod found at Home Depot, Lowe's etc. They may appear to roll flat but are not accurate enough for wheel balancing.
They work well on old "Radio Wagons" though :shock:.
Do not use tapered rubber cones to clamp the wheel. The cones should be metal or very hard plastic and contact holes in the metal part of the bearings and not the rubber seals either or you are just wasting your time :nojoke:.
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Discussion Starter #20
Great idea GaterWing.
Whats the diameter of the rod? Just in case I decide to have some cones fabricated.
 
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