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i just replaced steering head bearings on 2001 gl1800a with 57k miles with all balls tapered bearings. iv'e tried to ride it3 times after setting torque on bearing and still stiff. scary to try and control. i put the races in deep freeze overnight and didn't use any grease to put it in the triple tree. still not working. any tips?
thanks,
Bob
 

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i just replaced steering head bearings on 2001 gl1800a with 57k miles with all balls tapered bearings. iv'e tried to ride it3 times after setting torque on bearing and still stiff. scary to try and control. i put the races in deep freeze overnight and didn't use any grease to put it in the triple tree. still not working. any tips?
thanks,
Bob
When you set the torque on the bearings you had to install a new locking clip that sort of looks like a spider with tabs for legs on the lower torque setting nut. That part has some spring like properties to it. After that you install the second nut. Do not tighten that nut. Spin it on until it stops and bend the tabs to lock it in place. Do not even turn it at all to snug it to the assembly. The top nut must be only finger tight when done. Bend the tabs to lock the top nut to the lower nut. Slip on the triple tree and torque its nut to specifications. The top nut under the triple tree is there to isolate the torque from the triple tree nut from being transfered to the bearings. If the torque from tightening the triple tree nut gets transferred to the lower torquing nut, you get the pleasure of replacing the clip (the spring qualities have been removed) and you get the pleasure of re torquing the bearings.
Too tight = High speed sway. Too loose = Wobble.
Forget the scale tests. Just make sure the assembly turns easy but stays where you leave it. It should not flop past where you let it go or it is too loose :22yikes:.
 

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Gatorwing has hit upon the likely Huckelberry. When I install the upper nut over the lock tab I set down to just barely make contact and if that does not happen to match a lock tab, then I back that upper nut off just to where a tab will engage.

There is another possible foil for you, check to see that you have all of the cables and wires routed per the service manual. If they are correct, they relax and have a neutral effect upon the steering, of one is stressed, it will bind the steering, esp in one direction or the other.

I use gun smith trigger pull spring test when I do the final check on the bearings, usually after a good set of test rides, but with tapered bearings and higher torque, you may have to fudge the pull resistance upward to a bit above 3# as they have more resistance.

prs
 

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:agree: Yup, what they all said. :agree:

If the top nut is too tight, the bike feels very stiff if you try to do a slight move to either side, like you were dodging a pothole or a chipmunk. It's hard to move it off center.

You said no grease... Did you mean you didn't grease the frame where the races sit, or the tree where you pound the bottom bearing on, or did you mean like... no grease on the bearings? I assume you meant you didn't use grease to drive / seat things, but if you mean you didn't pack the bearings, you want to take it apart and pack everything good, slather grease on the races too. I usually put a little grease on the frame and outside of the races before I seat them, and on the tree before I drive the bottom bearing. Also, under the bottom seal. It makes getting everything seated much easier, and greased or not, the races aren't going anywhere..

Anyway, if it feels stiff, something is too tight or binding.

=Dave=
 
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i just replaced steering head bearings on 2001 gl1800a with 57k miles with all balls tapered bearings. iv'e tried to ride it3 times after setting torque on bearing and still stiff. scary to try and control. i put the races in deep freeze overnight and didn't use any grease to put it in the triple tree. still not working. any tips?
thanks,
Bob
The pros don't use torque to set the bearing they use feel or a resistance gauge. This torque deal came up when someone just thought tighter is better and it acts as a steering dampener. You can't go wrong if you use the resistance gauge but torquing the bearing is still always incorrect.

Your post and results are a good example of what torquing bearing will do.

It's even more dangerous than bias ply tires :22yikes:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
grease

hi dandy, yes to the comment about not greasing the triple tree base when putting the lower race on. this is the third try at this setting. i,m getting discouraged about it. the weather been nice lately and working on bike whilst i should be riding it. on the setting i went from a guess that was too tight to backed off and too loose. they felt the same when i rode the bike. i don't feel any rough spots or drag when moving the handle bars. it feels real smooth.
thanks for your help,dandy

Bob:confused::confused::confused:
 
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