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Discussion Starter #1
Does anyone have any quick and easy tip on how to remove the bottom bolt in the front shocks of a GL1800? A long 6MM Allen socket and a two foot breaker bar just wouldn't do it. When it finally "popped" with my son and I both pulling on it, we though it had loosed. Instead, the center of the bolt literally expoded into 4 or 5 very small pieces.

I believe I am down to drilling it out now but thought that maybe someone smarter than me had run into this and thought up a quick fix.
 

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Are you removing the forks to replace seals? If so and the head of the bold sheared off, the upper chrome slider will pull out of the leg once you remove the clip under the dust seal. Then you will be able to get at the stump of the broken bolt easily.
 

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If the head broke off then you can pull the tube out of the slider and there will be about 1/2 inch of the bolt showing and get it with vise grips. Can you see the copper washer ? If not then you will have to drill the head off and then remove the tube and use vise grips. I would use a 3/8 drill bit, as soon as it gets all the bolt head it will then turn the copper washer long before it hits the slider, much less chance of doing any damage to the slider that way.

Good luck
 

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Honda (Showa) puts thread lock agent on those bolts when they build the bike. Personally, I don't use threadlock on them for this very reason.

Once you get the fork leg apart, you might want to try some gentle heat on the bolt, it might make the thread lock release easier.

I have had to use an electric impact wrench on them to break them loose before. Max at Traxxion may have some tips for you, as I am sure he has run into this.
 

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Eventhough the head shattered, I imagine it left enough shoulder to still hang-up in the tube bottom. Get it into good light and see. You may still have to center punch it and drill it out.

prs
 

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Discussion Starter #6
New problem developed

Thanks for the replies guys. I was able to successfully drill off the head of the bolt and then had to take the shock apart. The shaft of the bolt is sticking out of the damper now, easy enough to get to. When I try turning it though, the internal part of the damper just spins freely.

Even with my Wal-Mart reading glassses on,I see no way to take the damper apart to get hold of that spinning part. Does anyone know of a way to do this?
 

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The bottom plug in the damper can sometimes spin. I think Max reported that if you pull UP on the damper cartridge it will help wedge the bottom plug and stop it from turning.

Try PULLING DOWN on what is left of the bolt WHILE TURNING it and see if that works.

You may also need to use some gentle heat to break loose the thread lock agent Honda put on the bolt.
 

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like gw norman said , take off dust caps being sure!!! not to scratch tube gently remove dust cap upward under there is a c-clip small screwdriver work it upward after it (clip is out) slam down on bottom slider up and down motin firmly, the whole bottom will come off.
then loosen pinch bolts on triple tree the tube will fall out, take everything apart by loosening top cap carefully then this bolt will be east to get out

Be very sure not to scratch the tube or seal will leak, no fixing it!!!

clean every thin de-natured alcohol if its' right side pump the cartridge to clean it out also-fill cartridge with new fluid put it in a holder of clean fluid and pump it up.
put the whole thing back together might as well replace slider bushing and install new seals while your this deep, compress bottom tube upward fill with fluid till it is 5 inches from top, reinstall top cap, put it all back together and no thread lock this time on bottom bolt, if you don't have a monuall get one your gonna need all torque specs.
your probably going to be doing this about every 30K or so if you want the front end to be very good----bushings that is

good luck it happens to all of us it sucks also replace or kneel bottom washers =copper ones

I use a tire air lug nut wrench to crack them loose (500 lbs of pressure)works very well, cut off a allen and use a socket on it with air wrench.
 

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I had the same problem last year. after drilling the head off the bolt, I had to heat the bolt with a torch to burn off the locktite. once
I heated the bolt, it came out easy.
good luck.;)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ray Max,

Did a propane torch work sufficiently or did you have to get it really hot with acetylene? I feel like heating it is the way to go, but that damper looks like it wouldn't tolerate a whole lot of that.
 
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