A heli coil kit is about the best option. If you buy the kit you get everything you need, including the drill, tap, coils and insertion tool. A properly installed Heli Coil will be stonger than original.
Yep, that is a stainless steel bolt going into aluminum. If you just stripped out the outermost threads, get a threading tap, oil it very well and carefully start it in from the rear side of the hole. Run the tap all the way in with a back and forth turning motion to chase the threads. Clean and re-oil the protruding part and then remove it. Get a new bolt or chase its threads too if not too buggered-up. If your strippid all the way through, well, take ten lashes and buy the heli coil kit.
Stainless stell can be grabby and so can aluminum -- if you rake the bolt threads across a bar of soap or wax before starting the threads, you get a far more harmonious outcome. Works great on wood screws too!
i have never liked these bolts and expect for
this to happen to me some day...my back up
plan is to run a 5/16-18 UNC tap through the
existing hole.....so i just went out and pulled
the seat bolt....miked it ....checked my tap drill
chart and it looks like this would be a simple fix
of course you will have to get a new bolt
anyway thought i would throw this out for
what its worth
I havent stripped mine but I have chased the threads a couple times. do like pigeon says..chase the threads first...chances are they will clean up. if not...heli coil is the answer. I dont think the seat collars, the ones that slide into the rubber grommets will accept a larger size bolt. I use some anti seize compound on the threads when installing the bolts. just takes a little. I havent tried wax on machine screws.. I know wax works great on wood screws...or even bar hand soap does the trick too on wood screws. if you dont have any anti seize, use some grease.
I had Lewis put in a brake modulator for me. And he, on his own, went ahead and rethreaded everything there for me. He told me Honda should of known better than to put the threads there and then paint it. And now, the bolts go in alot better than before.
I had the same problem last year....3 out of 4 seat bolts wouldn't come out. Seems that when I had re-installed the seat, three rubber spacers had fallen out of place. I got a lot of good advice from the folks on this board and finally wound up having the dealer fix the problem at a cost of $75 including chasing the threads (I bought the new bolts). The deciding factor for me was that if I messed up the aluminum frame, it probably wasn't going to come out too good. Was a cheap fix for me thanks to a good sympathetic dealer. Good Luck, Bill :croc:
I have that "T-shirt", done it but mine cleaned up good from backside. BUT remember that if you apply any type of lubricant to the threads that the "measured torque" on the bolts is increased approx. 4 times normal for the same reading (if you use gage). That means 10# torque is actually producing 40# on the joint. In this incident, these steel bolts can strip the threads right out of the fully & properly engaged alum. frame. Use caution. :yes2:
Straight Stuff ! (Got that T shirt too). :wink: :!:
I thought I had a stripped seat bolt and the bolt would not come out. I removed the other bolt on the same side and pulled out on the handle while unscrewing the stripped bolt. I found that the last time the dealer put the seat back on, that one of the rubber bushings had fallen out and the bolt actually had went in past the threads. No damage, but I chased the threads anywayand reinstalled the rubber bushing and everything is OK now. Hope this is what happened to your bike.
This started on my bike also but I got it figured out befor the damage was done. The problem starts back at the factory as Honda is too cheap as to use a small amount of Silicone sealant . If you take the seat off you will see that you have 4 large black rubber grommets and each of them have a metal bushing inserted in it. I would suggest to everyone to do as I did to avoid any and all problems. I also went to the dealer and told them and showed them and now they are on their own, as if they are doing as I suggested I do not know. I had them replace all 4 seat bolts because once you strip out the aluminum frame, your screwed.. You are then subjected to go with the coils. The answer is to remove the grommets and the bushings and apply some black ( any color ) silicone. You are glueing the bushing into the grommet and then apply the silicone into the seat so that the rubber grommet is glued into the seat. When it all dries, there is no way that the bolts wont line up as the grommets and the bushings are then stationary. The grommets actually moved around pryor to me doing the silicone and that is what starts the problem.
I would also suggest to everyone to apply a small amount of black silicone on ALL of the cover grommets also ! You can get a tube of silicone that fits into a calking gun for about $5 at Home Depot.