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Discussion Starter #1
I've been living with a left bag which has been sticking on and off since I bought my bike in 2004.
I think I have read all of the forum discussion on the topic this week and tried all of the solutions recommended.
None worked on my bike.

I did however find that on my bike that the mechanism in the trunk that rotates when the left handle is pulled had about a 1/4" play between when the handle starts to move and when the mechanism engages to pull on the cable that runs into the bag compartment where it springs the latches open. This is because the rotating mechanism is in two pieces. Why I don't know, but I found that if I placed something in the gap between the two pieces, effectively taking up the slack, that the cable is pulled approximately an additional 1/4" which pops the latch every time.

The only thing that I could find laying around, that I could fill the gap with and make it stay in place, was a long snaky piece of rubber that had a stiffing wire in side to allow it to be formed. I pressed it into the gap and used a pull-tie to hold it in place, and cut it to length. See the pictures below. The piece of rubber that fills the gap is blue. I am sure there must be a more elegant solution to taking up the slack, but it works.

One of the forum threads mentioned Honda Service Bulletin GL1800 #15, http://www.goldwingfacts.com/1800 Service Bulletins/1800SB15.pdf , which replaces the whole rear latching mechanism as well as the left rod and a blue snap.
I talked with the local Honda service manager to determine if this would be a cost effective repair. The rear latch mechanism is about $450 + $90 labor. The left rod and blue snap replacement is about $10 +$50 labor. He agreed that my solution was more cost effect as long as it continues to work. The rear latch mechanism is accessed by removing 5 screws on the back of the trunk wall as shown below. I took 2 close up pictures ( looking down on the rear latching assembly) of the blue piece of rubber tied in place in the rotating mechanism, as well as a full view of the back so that you can locate the spot where it is.

compfix1.JPG compfix2.JPG compFullBack.JPG compSnake.JPG compBackCover.JPG
 

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Sweet! :thumbup:
 

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IronMan
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SOMETIMES UGLY STILL WORKS :lol: GOOD FIX
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Original fix had Flaw - Needs Modification

I've been living with a left bag which has been sticking on and off since I bought my bike in 2004.
I think I have read all of the forum discussion on the topic this week and tried all of the solutions recommended.
None worked on my bike.

I did however find that on my bike that the mechanism in the trunk that rotates when the left handle is pulled had about a 1/4" play between when the handle starts to move and when the mechanism engages to pull on the cable that runs into the bag compartment where it springs the latches open. This is because the rotating mechanism is in two pieces. Why I don't know, but I found that if I placed something in the gap between the two pieces, effectively taking up the slack, that the cable is pulled approximately an additional 1/4" which pops the latch every time.

The only thing that I could find laying around, that I could fill the gap with and make it stay in place, was a long snaky piece of rubber that had a stiffing wire in side to allow it to be formed. I pressed it into the gap and used a pull-tie to hold it in place, and cut it to length. See the pictures below. The piece of rubber that fills the gap is blue. I am sure there must be a more elegant solution to taking up the slack, but it works.

One of the forum threads mentioned Honda Service Bulletin GL1800 #15, http://www.goldwingfacts.com/1800 Service Bulletins/1800SB15.pdf , which replaces the whole rear latching mechanism as well as the left rod and a blue snap.
I talked with the local Honda service manager to determine if this would be a cost effective repair. The rear latch mechanism is about $450 + $90 labor. The left rod and blue snap replacement is about $10 +$50 labor. He agreed that my solution was more cost effect as long as it continues to work. The rear latch mechanism is accessed by removing 5 screws on the back of the trunk wall as shown below. I took 2 close up pictures ( looking down on the rear latching assembly) of the blue piece of rubber tied in place in the rotating mechanism, as well as a full view of the back so that you can locate the spot where it is.

View attachment 28030 View attachment 28031 View attachment 28032 View attachment 28033 View attachment 28034


UPDATE: The above is FLAWED! The bag opens reliably but the open bag indication is always on.
Strapping the snaky rubber in place caused the cable to the left bag to not to fully release when the handle was released, causing the instrumentation panel to indicate that the bag was open when it is shut.
spring.jpg

I noticed that the spring shown above was not able to fully pull the mechanism back to the released position, because of the rubber which I had force into place.
I tried making the rubber narrower, but this weakened it to the point that it would deform and not work reliably, so I went to a more rigid material.
Right now I have an industrial grade piece of rigid styrofoam cut in an L shape to fit in the space without affecting the springs ability to return.
wedge1.jpg wedgein2.JPG
Now the left bag cable still gets the extra 1/4" of pull when the left handle is pulled, and returns to the released position when the handle is released.
As precaution against the insert falling out of place, I have a fine gauge piece of wire looped through a hole in the insert and loosely around a rod in the rear assembly.

I'm thinking that the heavy styrofoam may not hold up over time.
I expect that I will be machining a similar L shaped insert out of a stiffer material like aluminum or steel, some time in the future.
 

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And as a reminder....if you cannot get the door open normally, open the trunk, pull the rubber plug and push the plunger? Something like that?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Update to stuck Left Bag - used silicon spray in two catch openings

Well as with all fixes, the left bag door stopped opening reliably again this season.
However this time it wouldn't open by pressing the hidden button through the hole in the trunk floor.
This always work in the past without fail, but now it didn't.
Through the hole I could see that pulling the rear lever was moving the mechanisms as before but the door was not opening.

What it took was squirting some silicon spray in the two catch openings, on the side where the door loops go into, on the mechanisms inside.
Now the door opens as it had after my previous lever linkage fix.

i got the idea, to use the silicone spray, after using it to fix the handlebar "mute" and "reverse" switch push buttons operation.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Update to sticky left box

UPDATE:
You will laugh, but I am attributing this problem to my wife!
I had my wing into my mechanic for an annual checkup and mentioned to him that the box was sticking.
His set of eyes noticed a flow of sticky residue in the joint where the box lid where it mates with the box, on the top, which was sticky and causing the box lid to stick.
Further inspection noticed a flow from the bottom of the rear passenger pocket!
Opening the rear passenger pocket, I found a host of melted candies (mentos) that had formed a mass in the bottom that at some point oozed out of the bottom.
After removing all of the sticky candies and using goo-gone on the rim of the box and lid, wouldn't you know it, now the box opens EVERY time smoothly.
I don't know that this was the original problem, because I thought I had cleaned the rim of the box and lid, but for now it is a pleasure to be able to open the box without worrying that it will stick.



I've been living with a left bag which has been sticking on and off since I bought my bike in 2004.
I think I have read all of the forum discussion on the topic this week and tried all of the solutions recommended.
None worked on my bike.

I did however find that on my bike that the mechanism in the trunk that rotates when the left handle is pulled had about a 1/4" play between when the handle starts to move and when the mechanism engages to pull on the cable that runs into the bag compartment where it springs the latches open. This is because the rotating mechanism is in two pieces. Why I don't know, but I found that if I placed something in the gap between the two pieces, effectively taking up the slack, that the cable is pulled approximately an additional 1/4" which pops the latch every time.

The only thing that I could find laying around, that I could fill the gap with and make it stay in place, was a long snaky piece of rubber that had a stiffing wire in side to allow it to be formed. I pressed it into the gap and used a pull-tie to hold it in place, and cut it to length. See the pictures below. The piece of rubber that fills the gap is blue. I am sure there must be a more elegant solution to taking up the slack, but it works.

One of the forum threads mentioned Honda Service Bulletin GL1800 #15, http://www.goldwingfacts.com/1800 Service Bulletins/1800SB15.pdf , which replaces the whole rear latching mechanism as well as the left rod and a blue snap.
I talked with the local Honda service manager to determine if this would be a cost effective repair. The rear latch mechanism is about $450 + $90 labor. The left rod and blue snap replacement is about $10 +$50 labor. He agreed that my solution was more cost effect as long as it continues to work. The rear latch mechanism is accessed by removing 5 screws on the back of the trunk wall as shown below. I took 2 close up pictures ( looking down on the rear latching assembly) of the blue piece of rubber tied in place in the rotating mechanism, as well as a full view of the back so that you can locate the spot where it is.

View attachment 28030 View attachment 28031 View attachment 28032 View attachment 28033 View attachment 28034
 

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UPDATE:
You will laugh, but I am attributing this problem to my wife!
I had my wing into my mechanic for an annual checkup and mentioned to him that the box was sticking.
His set of eyes noticed a flow of sticky residue in the joint where the box lid where it mates with the box, on the top, which was sticky and causing the box lid to stick.
Further inspection noticed a flow from the bottom of the rear passenger pocket!
Opening the rear passenger pocket, I found a host of melted candies (mentos) that had formed a mass in the bottom that at some point oozed out of the bottom.
After removing all of the sticky candies and using goo-gone on the rim of the box and lid, wouldn't you know it, now the box opens EVERY time smoothly.
I don't know that this was the original problem, because I thought I had cleaned the rim of the box and lid, but for now it is a pleasure to be able to open the box without worrying that it will stick.
DAMN WOMEN! :joke: KISS Solution is always good-
 
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