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Discussion Starter #1
I need some help/suggestions. I have a 2010 Level 1. I think my battery is bad. The problem is, I replaced the battery in 2017 and again in 2018, and here we are in 2020, and I think the battery is bad again. I have no idea what I could possibly be doing wrong.

Today's symptoms are, after a full charge last week, yesterday it was dead again. I did not ride it in the last week. I charged it overnight and came out to a solid green light on my Battery Tender. I decided to test for a parasitic drain, which I did/do not believe I have. But it showed a drain of .13. I pulled all the fuses, and still showed a drain of .13. So at this point, I disconnected both cables from the battery and tested the voltage 13.5, then a minute later 13.4, then 13.3 and steadily dropping by the minute. So the battery apparently isn't holding charge. OK, so it's bad. It happens. But three batteries in four years?

All are Yuasa batteries purchased from Amazon. Am I getting ripped by fake Yuasa batteries? The reviews on the batteries are mixed, so it's hard to say.

So, suggestions on what to try next. Different seller for the battery? I don't think the bike is draining the battery. And I keep a tender on it all winter. A good tender, the Battery Tender brand. I'm willing to purchase one more battery, maybe from a different seller. But if it happens again, I'm going to sell the bike (with full disclosure, of course). I'm not going to keep pouring money into it like this.
 

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Did you buy a pre-filled battery or one you add the acid to then charge. I did not prep my battery after I bought it and it only lasted 8 months before it would not keep a charge.
1. Add acid let battery set for 2 to 3 hrs.
2. Charge at 1 to 1.5 amps until full charged.
3. Install battery and go.
I'm going on 4 years now with no problems.
 

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GL1800 Doctor
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I need some help/suggestions. I have a 2010 Level 1. I think my battery is bad. The problem is, I replaced the battery in 2017 and again in 2018, and here we are in 2020, and I think the battery is bad again. I have no idea what I could possibly be doing wrong.

Today's symptoms are, after a full charge last week, yesterday it was dead again. I did not ride it in the last week. I charged it overnight and came out to a solid green light on my Battery Tender. I decided to test for a parasitic drain, which I did/do not believe I have. But it showed a drain of .13. I pulled all the fuses, and still showed a drain of .13. So at this point, I disconnected both cables from the battery and tested the voltage 13.5, then a minute later 13.4, then 13.3 and steadily dropping by the minute. So the battery apparently isn't holding charge. OK, so it's bad. It happens. But three batteries in four years?

All are Yuasa batteries purchased from Amazon. Am I getting ripped by fake Yuasa batteries? The reviews on the batteries are mixed, so it's hard to say.

So, suggestions on what to try next. Different seller for the battery? I don't think the bike is draining the battery. And I keep a tender on it all winter. A good tender, the Battery Tender brand. I'm willing to purchase one more battery, maybe from a different seller. But if it happens again, I'm going to sell the bike (with full disclosure, of course). I'm not going to keep pouring money into it like this.
130mA is way too much drain for an 1800. If pulling all the fuses didn’t make it go away, then your diode bridge in the alternator has a leaky diode. Max drain for the system is no more than 5mA. You should check it again, but instead of pulling the fuses, just disconnect the main cable on the alternator. Be careful and DON‘T short it to the frame right beside it.
 

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Do you have a genuine "Battery Tender" from Deltran, or do you have a counterfeit one, or a "trickle charger"? I've had trickle chargers put out 20+ volts and cook a lot of batteries before I figured it out.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
130mA is way too much drain for an 1800. If pulling all the fuses didn’t make it go away, then your diode bridge in the alternator has a leaky diode. Max drain for the system is no more than 5mA. You should check it again, but instead of pulling the fuses, just disconnect the main cable on the alternator. Be careful and DON‘T short it to the frame right beside it.
The main cable is.....not the wiring harness, right? The actual cable? I know there are two connections, just want to be sure I understand.

And I think it's 13mA, not 130. I'm pretty sure I'm reading it right. It reads .13 when on the blue DC mA setting. If that's 130, then holy crap.
366463
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Did you buy a pre-filled battery or one you add the acid to then charge. I did not prep my battery after I bought it and it only lasted 8 months before it would not keep a charge.
1. Add acid let battery set for 2 to 3 hrs.
2. Charge at 1 to 1.5 amps until full charged.
3. Install battery and go.
I'm going on 4 years now with no problems.
I did pretty much exactly what you just described.
 

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GL1800 Doctor
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The main cable is.....not the wiring harness, right? The actual cable? I know there are two connections, just want to be sure I understand.

And I think it's 13mA, not 130. I'm pretty sure I'm reading it right. It reads .13 when on the blue DC mA setting. If that's 130, then holy crap. View attachment 366463
Ok, if it’s reading .13 on that milliamperes setting, then it’s not even 1mA. So it’s not a drain issue, you need to make sure the system is charging correctly with it running.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ok, if it’s reading .13 on that milliamperes setting, then it’s not even 1mA. So it’s not a drain issue, you need to make sure the system is charging correctly with it running.
That's kind of what I started thinking after I actually typed it out. When I was reading it on the meter I thought it was 13 milliamps. So in order to test it, I need to put the meter on it while the bike is reading, and it should read about 14 volts, isn't that correct? Or is there more to it than that?
 

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A fully charged 12 volt motorcycle battery is actually only supposed to read abut 12.75 volts.
Anything over that and it is a surface charge that will decrease to about 12.7 volts and should stay there for about 24 hours with no load.
 

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As I recall, 5.0mA is the max parasitic drain on a stock bike.

0.13mA is nothin'!

What extra powered accessories are on this machine?
 

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My thoughts ... first off the battery connections need to be clean and tight. Once that is done, the battery, charging, and starting systems needs properly tested. As for charging a battery. Charging a battery is completely different than maintaining one. I have no idea what the capabilities are of your maintainer, but many can only maintain, not charge, and deffinatly not properly charge a new one being prepped for installation ... for best results, Yuasa insists on a 2amp charger. Their instruction set also says a 10amp will work and if someone is in a hurry, use one of those. However, like I said ... for best result use a 2amp. Also, for long battery life, it is critical that the battery is prepped correctly prior to it being installed. For those instructions, see the ones in the box from Yuasa, or a Service Manual. Follow those instructions to a tee.

Additionally, you may have a draw that is killing your battery. Common ones are a MP3 player. To find a draw, sometimes it is best to disconnect all aftermarket accessories power supplies, and one-by-one connected and monitor the results. If you do have a draw, the possibilities of it being a OEM problem is little to nil ... it is almost always cause by aftermarket stuff.

Honda says your Wing needs a Yuasa battery YTX20L-BS. I buy all my batteries from a Honda dealer. They have over-the-counter Yuasa's in stock. However, they know that I willing to wait up to 3 weeks for ones that come in Honda packaging, and am also willing to pay $1.50 more for them. In my case, my customers come to my shop for upmost reliability, thus the need for OEM quality.

If you need a 2amp charger, Yuasa sells theirs for about $70.
 

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Don't use the tender to charge a new battery if it's the type you fill yourself. It will never get close to fully charging the battery and life will suffer. If it's the battery already sealed and filled at the factory then a tender is ok.
I would try not using a tender and see what happens. Can't be any worse. I'm on my original 12yr old Yuasa and I never use a tender.
If you do keep it on a tender, after the light turns green check and see if it's possibly malfunctioned and not shutting off to storage charge. Expect to see about 13.1-13.2v in storage mode. More than that you are cooking the battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
As I recall, 5.0mA is the max parasitic drain on a stock bike.

0.13mA is nothin'!

What extra powered accessories are on this machine?
Yeah, I had been reading the meter wrong. But it's positively .13mA. So I've pretty much eliminated the parasitic draw, or even the alternator, really. I have a handful of accessories on the bike, a J&M bluetooth unit, a GL2Way, a Sirius Radio/Dock, phone charging port. I charged the battery full today and it read 12.52 last check. I'll see what it reads tomorrow afternoon. If it holds, I'm not sure what I'll do next.

All I know is the battery was charged fully last weekend. I didn't ride it this week for various reasons, and yesterday I went to start it and it was dead.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Don't use the tender to charge a new battery if it's the type you fill yourself. It will never get close to fully charging the battery and life will suffer. If it's the battery already sealed and filled at the factory then a tender is ok.
I would try not using a tender and see what happens. Can't be any worse. I'm on my original 12yr old Yuasa and I never use a tender.
If you do keep it on a tender, after the light turns green check and see if it's possibly malfunctioned and not shutting off to storage charge. Expect to see about 13.1-13.2v in storage mode. More than that you are cooking the battery.
As I recall, I did use a 1.25 amp tender to initially charge the battery when it was new. So I suppose it's possible the problem lies there. My stupid battery charger doesn't shut off on its own, so I don't use it overnight. Guess I'll invest in a new automatic charger along with the potential new battery. Most signs are pointing toward the battery being bad, perhaps due to my own actions.
 

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I have a handful of accessories on the bike, a J&M bluetooth unit, a GL2Way, a Sirius Radio/Dock, phone charging port.
The GL2way...hmmm. You'd need to do a bit more diagnostic work to prove or disprove that it hasn't started to goof-up.

The other three items - are they all powered from the auxiliary power connector under the left pocket, by chance?
 

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A good AGM battery will read over 12.8v after it settles down an hour after charging. If you are only 12.52v on the battery after a charge, that's not good and it sounds like battery is not holding a charge.
 

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Start it and turn on everything then read the voltage on the battery posts with it at 2500 rpm. It should read at least 14.1V depending on the battery’s charge state. If you get this, then your alternator is fine.
 
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