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Anybody have experience with the super brace and is it worth it, I have progressive springs and it help from bottoming on curves
 

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Jim,

If you plan in the future on getting the upgraded suspension from Traxxion, they will recommend the Kuryakyn brace. I have the Super Brace on my 1800 with Progressive springs, and will have the upgrade done in May of this year. It looks like I'm going to be selling a Super Brace along with the springs soon after that.

The Super Brace has a tendency to bind the forks. After spending that kind of money for the total upgrade, I wouldn't want the slightest thing to interfere with its operation.

The only thing that I don't like about the Kuryakyn brace is the lack of fork protectors (bug & rock shields) that are presently on my Super Brace although somewhat shorter than the OEM without a brace. I don't know what Kuryakyn was thinking to omit such an important item. They must've had their reasons.

Mike
 

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I have a superbrace. It made the wobble more pronounced. New front springs and bearing made almost all of it go away. Front end feedback on rough corners is more severe. Otherwise, I didn't notice any change.
 

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tomfranken said:
I have a superbrace. It made the wobble more pronounced. New front springs and bearing made almost all of it go away. Front end feedback on rough corners is more severe. Otherwise, I didn't notice any change.
Those are classic symptoms that the SuperBrace was causing binding in your forks. Any two or three piece design brace is going to cause binding. The Kuryakyn brace that Max sells is the only 5 piece brace I know of for this bike, and since the center section is separate and can "float" a bit befor you tighten it down and you put it on last, it just about totally eliminates any chances it will cause binding or alignment problems.
 

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I believe there may be some possibility of salvation for the good folks who have spent their hard currency and put their faith in the SuperBrace product only to find it detrimental to handling. I have no SuperBrace and NO vested interest in either them or Kuryakyn. I hope Fred, Stu, and Max (or any of your good folks) can jump in here like a duck after a June bug and either confirm or denounce my theory with the SuperBrace product as compared to the Kuryakyn product. Fred's description of the construction of the Kuryakyn five part brace as compared to the three part Superbrace is accurate. In the ideal world every production GL1800 would have nearly the same exact factory dimensions, but in the real world we know there are considerable variances. The Kuryakyn brace design should accomodate any such factory variances. The SuperBrace product can not so accomodate unless one could carefully shim it or trim it to fit - such posing a tedious proposition, at best. Also in the real world, the "in use" or insitua adjustments of our various front forks very likely vary over a wide range from way too wide through just right to too narrow or tight. After all, we all have our limitations of mechanical skill and understanding and even trained pro mechanics vary widely in their attention to such detail, especially close to "quitting time".

With the Kuryakyn product, your front end wheel to forks to axle to left rotor brace geometry remains as is and the brace adapts its fitting to accomodate what ever those dimensions are, within reason. That is a GREAT advantage especially if we are considering your assembly work on the wheel to forks to be correct or within tolerance and the brace's fitting tolerances are not allowing you to proceed with a mistake in that regard. No stiction, no bind, the brace just keeps the forks from flexing or yawing excessively.

The Superbrace (I admit to relying upon what I have learned of it here on the net - so beware) was evidently designed to accomodate what its maker determined to be the nominal or typical production dimensions of properly adjusted front forks; or perhaps they relied upon some specific sample of the GL1800 obtained for their studies. Again, considering production specs have tolerances and our assembly consistency from one mechanic to another vary, it is no wonder the non-adjustable product does not always fit poor Cinderella like a magically fitted glass slipper. Improper fit translates into binding and resistance to normal movement.

Proper assembly of the front wheel, its spacers, axle nut, fork pinch bolts and axle remains vitally important with either product, or even if you desire to use neither product. The Honda fork to wheel assembly directions should be followed to the "T". Following initial assembly the forks should be pumped and rechecked per the manual or MOM. The clearance from the edge of the left rotor to the edge of the left caliper bracket must be verified to have at least the minimal clearance. Ah, there lies the source of possible HOPE for our friends already with SuperBrace. That minimal specified clearance is often, if not typically, met with a bit of room to spare. So, IF you have the SuperBrace and it seems to be binding or you are worried that it is binding, then my theory has it that you "may" be able to remedy the fault by carefully re-assemblying the front wheel into the forks. You can not do so if such brings your clearance of the rotor to caliper bracket to below minimal tolerance; but if you are already on the tight side of the tolerances the correction of that may also resolve your fitment of the SuperBrace. So long as the inspection Tell Tale line on the left end of the axle still reasonably aligns with the "boss" at the bottom of the forks (the thicker part where the axle "hole" is, you should be in the good so long as that clearance between rotor and caliper bracket are maintained and the forks are not under stress inward or outward. You can not expect any success if it turns out that in order to accomdate the SuperBrace the forks have to assembled under any degree of stress. Its gotta be worth the try; No?/Yes?

Like I said, I have no SuperBrace; but, if'n ah did and if'n hit wuz'a bind'n: I would remove the brace and inspect its inner clamp surfaces for burs or imperfections and take care of that. I would then loosen all the pertinant components of my front wheel to axle assembly. I would get my official Honda instructions for reassembly and follow them to the letter. Make sure the axle is fully inserted to the right and the bolt and clamp nuts are attended to in sequence and that the fork compression step is followed and caliper bracket to rotor clearance measured as directed. Then I would replace my SuperBrace, but leave the clamp fasteners LOOSE. With the bike on its center stand and with the front jacked-up just enough to raise the front tread off of the floor, I would carefully note and mark the position of the left side axle "Tell Tale" line. I would then loosen the pinch bolts of the left side fork only. I would tighten the clamps on my Superbrace to spec. I would retorque the left fork pinch bolts. Re-check the caliper bracket to
to rotor clearance on the left fork (if its too tight - you are whipped) and then take note of the alignment of the axle's "Tell Tale" line with the fork "boss". Did that line move? If so, was it just a bare minimum so that it is still adjacent to (one way or the other) to the "boss"? If not, you are whipped. If so, you may be bind free and lark happy.

Bear in mind; no matter which brand of brace you use, if you use a brace, it must be re-fitted every time you remove or change the front wheel assembly. That is EZ with the Kuryakyn product, maybe the Royal PIA I described above with the SuperBrace. :roll:

prs (who has a Kuryakyn brace, but sees no great day/night benefit; but at least no detriment from it).
 

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You can measure the amount the forks drag with a zip tie.

Put a zip tie around the fork.

Have someone balance the bike.

Pull down on the fairing, then release your pull very very slowly. The goal is the make the bike "stick down".

Then slide the zip tie down to the dust seal.

The lift up on the fairing, and let the bike settle very very gently. The goal is to make the bike "stick up".

Then look at the gap between the zip tie and the dust seal.

That distance, measured to the millimeter, is "stiction".

If you have in excess of 8mm or so, you have one of the following problems:

Fork brace binding. (remove brace and retest)

Axle binding. (loosen fork opposite axle nut and adjust)

Dry fork seals. (overhaul forks)

Bent fork tube. (overhaul forks and straighten tubes)

Worn out bushings. (overhaul forks)

Severely clapped out fork oil that has turned to sludge. (overhaul forks)
 

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leaddog11;

Tritely put; the symptom would be that your suspension will not be working as efficiently or effectively as it could be. More to the point, your suspension responses to inputs and recovery from impusts will be delayed. Effectively, you will be losing 8mm (or would it actually be 16mm) of suspension travel in a system that already has limited travel. Practically speaking, if you foul-up and go into a declining radius curve with too much speed, then you may end up in the ditch or over the bank instead of riding it out and counting your lucky stars.

Max. your terminology "clapped-out" fork oil, sounds like it needs an antibiotic! :oops:

prs
 

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:oops: My fork oil is origional with 80,000 miles on the bike,my dealer does most of the maint and never reccomended changing the fluid,hope my ft forks dont have the clap :lol: OLE YELLER MBG PA
 

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By 80,000 the "clap" has been eradicated and replaced with "crap".

You will find that it isn't even oil any more if you pour it out.

It will be more like sewer sludge, and will absolutely smell identical to it.

If you don't believe it, just take the fork cap loose sometime...
 

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Well max i shall leave that up to you,i am the guy that just scheduled that fri am in late may for the whole package and installing my alls balls and your fork brace.so get your shop fans ready to clean out the sewer.OLE YELLER MBG PA
 

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Discussion Starter #14
wont to thank all of you for your input it help me to make a decision to install and what to watch for thanks again
Jim
 

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magenta said:
Well max i shall leave that up to you,i am the guy that just scheduled that fri am in late may for the whole package and installing my alls balls and your fork brace.so get your shop fans ready to clean out the sewer.OLE YELLER MBG PA

OK.... we are going to make SURE we share some of the lovely aroma with you, just so you never do that to your bike again!!!!!

:22yikes:
 

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Max McAllister said:
By 80,000 the "clap" has been eradicated and replaced with "crap".

You will find that it isn't even oil any more if you pour it out.

It will be more like sewer sludge, and will absolutely smell identical to it.

If you don't believe it, just take the fork cap loose sometime...
Soooooo,
Max has enough knowledge on clap to sound personally experienced with that aspect....
He also seems to know EXACTLY what sewer sludge smells like????
And now he confesses that he's back to sniffing fork tubes again....
YOU BETTER GET YOUR LIFE TOGETHER YOUNG MAN!
YOU ARE ON A SLIPPERY SLOPE TO SELF RUIN!
And your wife dresses you funny too. :lol: :lol: :lol:
DC
 

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Belive me max,had i known it would have been done.I work as a service consultant,asst service manager at a gm truck shop,i relied on my dealer to tell me what maint was required at various intervals and he left me down.i review my customers maint history every visit and make sure they are doing what is required.Sadly i cannot count on a certain dealer to do the same.i always ask them to review the history when i go in.I have started to do my own maint now.The sad part is there is nothing in the owners manual about changing the fork oil,if needed it should be in the maint schedule.OLE YELLER MBG PA
 

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It's really sad there's no recommendation.

Some people brag about how far they have gone with no service!

So we have started filling a little jar for each customer to let them see what the oil looks like that came out of their forks. We send it back with the forks!

:lol:

I want to scare 'em into changing their dang fork oil!!! :lol: :twisted:
 

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Synthetic or dino ???? :roll: OLE YELLER MBG PA
 
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