Sorry, I missed the FRONT and rear part there..
Traxxion.. no question. Where are you? if you are near an authorized installer, or Woodstock, GA, see if you can get a demo ride and try it for yourself.
If the Traxxion $$ are too steep, you can do it piece-meal, or go with Race Tech Gold Valves for the front. The Gold Valves are less expensive, but cannot be externally adjusted, so you have to pull the forks apart to tweak them.
I wrote up an explanation just a little while ago, I'll go find it and paste in here..
"Anyway, the reason your wife is complaining about the ride is that your rear shock is shot. The stock rear shock is not the world's greatest performer to start with, and after 20-30K miles of use, it has given up the ghost and isn't providing any more damping than a twinkie would. Secondly, the springs in a Goldwing are woefully inadequate for a 900lb bike with 2 riders of Goldwing stature.. (i.e., not 125lb sportbike kids, but real adults..). The wham-slam you get over big bumps where the bike just rattles your fillings comes directly from this. I can always tell when I need a new shock.. my wife starts in with "You didn't tell me about that bump!"
Fixing the rear will solve a lot of her issues.
Just replacing the spring, while it is a help, doesn't fix the root of the problem, which is no damping.
It's not hard to replace the rear shock, mostly tedious. You need to get to it, and since it lives dead center in the middle of a complex motorcycle, yoiu have to do a lot of disassembly. The shelter has to come off, and I pull the gas tank, which makes life a lot easier. (while you're in there, replace / have replaced the air filter) You have to do the exact same amount of work to just change the spring, why not fix it right the first time? You should also rebuild the adjustor, since Honda always underfills them. There are instructions on the board here to do that. (To see where yous is, put bike on centerstand, run preload to zero. Then run it up, and listen for where the sound changes in pitch, and it sounds like it's working. Stop there, look at the number on your display. Everything below that number is just air, no preload movement.)
A new shock and spring will generally run you $500 or so. (plus labor)
This WILL fix your rear end issues. And the complaints coming from the back seat.
Once you have the rear dialed in, you will figure out how bad the front end is.
Do you get the decel wobble from say 40-ish to 20-ish when you take your hands off the bars, say to adjust your gloves? If you do, roller bearings in the steering stem will fix that. If you are having front end work done, you're half way there in labor.. worth doing.
The Goldwing front end has springs too weak and an anti-dive unit to compensate for that which frequently sticks and locks up your left fork, giving you the suspension travel of your dining room table.
Your options here are:
A) stronger fork springs, disable the antidive. Least expensive, and unlike the rear shock, the forks are easy to get to, so if you change your mind and want to upgrade it's no biggie.
B) stronger fork springs and RaceTech GoldValves. This addresses some of the poor damping issue of the original Honda setup, which is kind of not very effective. The advantage to the GoldValve setup is that it is relatively inexpensive, Springs & Valves will probably be around $400-$500. You will need seals & bushings, for any fork rebuild, and for RaceTech you will need fork oil, adding $100 or so the total.
If you are mechanically adept and have a service manual, torque wrench, perhaps Fred's videos, and some other specialty tools or access to them, (fork seal driver, stem wrench) you can handle this, too, if you want to. The biggest drawback to the GoldValve setup is that they are not externally adjustable. You have to take the forks apart to tweak them. This can get really old, really fast.
C) Traxxion AK-20 cartridges. These solve all of the poor damping control and undersprung issues of the front end. They replace your left damper rod side with a VERY good racing cartridge, and the lousy cartridge on the right with the same, giving you a balanced suspension and no antidive. These come with the springs and with fork oil. Traxxion requires them to be installed by an authorized installer, because there is some modification to the fork tubes that needs to be done. You can bring the bike to your local Traxxion shop, you can just bring the forks, you can even send the forks to Traxxion if you want to wait for shipping etc when the weather is as fine as it is this week. The AK-20 kit cost about $1,000 and you can get adjustable fork caps for another $100 if you want to be able to dial it in.
A Traxxion Full Monty also includes a fork brace and a stainless preload adjustor line.
They have also introduced a much more rigid triple tree and bridge, but if you are only after better ride, you probably don't need them.
Any of these modifications will improve your ride substantially. A by-product is better handling, crisper turn-in, better tire wear, and a happier wife. The benefit you will use every day is the improved ride quality.
If you go to your local tire store, most have an example of a tire that is worn in a scallop pattern, or cupped. Right next to it they have a bad shock / good shock comparison. (or at least they used to.. I'm old, so they may not any more). The point they are trying to make is that a worn shock with poor damping will cause your tires to wear unevenly.. sort of like the cupping you get on the tires on a Goldwing. Hmmm...
A Traxxion installation IS a lot of money. I would encourage you to try one out before you make any decisions. You appear to be in the northeast, where exactly? There is an installer in NH, and I know they have both a Traxxion bike and a RaceTech bike you can try (The RaceTech bike is mine...) I can't speak for any of the others, but I'm sure most can offer you a chance to evaluate it."
Here's the whole thread..
http://gl1800riders.com/forums/showthread.php?t=284302
=Dave=