[Big_Bird]

Hi. New-ish to me 2006 Comfort/Nav/ABS (VIIA).

Driver's heated seat works. Grips do not.

Found blown fuse 29. Replaced and it blew again right away. Fuse 11 is fine.

When I got the bike, I briefly checked the grips and think they were working. I recently did all PM including changing air filter so I thought I may have gooned up connectors, went back under top shelter, can't find a missing/mangled connector. While under the top shelter:
-- Checked continuity at connector terminals near the cruise actuator, and there is continuity. Checked by unplugging the terminal, and check on the grip side across the two pins, right?.
-- Checked the panel control switch. I am getting about 3 kOhnms instead of 5 as spec'd for the first measurement (for both switches), and about on par for the different switch positions.

Any suggestions?

I'm taking a break, doing other chores, when I re-attack I will:
- pray for there to be some wisdom here! If still on my own...
- test or swap around the relay (looks fine, FWIW)
- do the drill from the manual starting with the heater control unit

 

[MarkEHansen]

I can't offer much "wisdom", but these are just a couple thoughts that came to me while reading your description.

Blowing a fuse will (usually) mean a short circuit more than an open circuit. When you checked the connector for your grip, you said there was continuity. Was it zero ohms, indicating a short circuit?

As far as the work under the top shelter, I would look for a pinched wire somewhere.

 

[Wild Turkey]

Look for a problem in the left grip.

 

[Big_Bird]

@MarkEHansen, low but not 0 ohms in both grips. Yes, I think you're right about hunting for a short. I've been thinking about that, too. It's not the typical "doesn't work" troubleshooting diagnosis walk-through, though the manual's steps may help me isolate sections of the wiring.

By the way, I swapped the seat from my '10 to the '06, in between when I think the grips worked and when they didn't. Checking part numbers, they're the same and I know my old seat & grips were working fine. So that's probably just background noise, but though unlikely it's another spot where the gremlins could hide.

I wasn't going to clean up any more of the wiring until after my Columbus Day weekend trip, but it looks like those plans should change. Game on!

 

[B767Driver]

I have an ‘06 and it appears my left grip is no good (no continuity at the plug). What aftermarket grip have people used on an ‘06 and are happy with? I was looking at show chrome but nobody seems to have it in stock. If anyone weighs in with a product they use and like, a part number would be a big help. Thanks in advance

 

[Big_Bird]

It seems to be the dreaded left grip. Checking at the grip connector under the top shelter, I've got continuity across the pins on the grip side for both of the grips, plus bonus continuity to ground on one of them. A winner! The connector on the bad one is labelled 62P (62E on the non-grounded one) and it was hooked up to the lead with Y/R & Y/G wires that feeds "Grip 1" in the wiring diagram.

I haven't traced the wire all the way around the steering head yet, but I think that's left grip #53166-MCA-305. No luck with parts pics showing the number on the connector to confirm 62P=L and 62E=R.

So now I go from being a little irked that @B767Driver bogarted my thread, to having almost the same question and glad he got it out there. But I'm leaning to OEM, thinking & hoping that they've improved the product over time. Anyone with another recommendation?

 

[Big_Bird]

Mystery solved.

Yes, it was the left grip. Not because of any left grip trends or deficiencies. Just because that happened to be the one whose cable I pinched under the handlebars when I installed the risers. So I guess it was working when I first op-checked it and it just didn't survive my initial tender loving care. I need to fire that good for nothing mechanic.

Some highlights from my troubles, just in case they help someone else --
- removing the grip is hard. I cut it off.
- for replacing the grip, from my experience doing mountain bike grips, I know you have to get the bar clean, slobber the heck out of it with whatever gunk you're going to use (don't try it dry), then really commit and man up. And those are shorter and much less expensive so I was fully on board.
- the residual glue is tough to remove manually. Goo Gone wasn't making much of a dent in it. Acetone was the trick. Then clean with alcohol.
- I slobbered the inside of the grip with alcohol to "lube" it and soaked the bar end with hair spray. 2/3 of the way on I feared I wasn't going to make it but I sacked up a bit, managed to not tip the bike over (it rocked), and got 'er done.

 

[Big_Bird]

I can't offer much "wisdom", but these are just a couple thoughts that came to me while reading your description.

Blowing a fuse will (usually) mean a short circuit more than an open circuit. When you checked the connector for your grip, you said there was continuity. Was it zero ohms, indicating a short circuit?

As far as the work under the top shelter, I would look for a pinched wire somewhere.

:congrats: Winner!

 

[MarkEHansen]

By the way, Helibars provides a tool and instructions for removing the left grip. You just heat up the grip and then us a tool - like a pully-puller to work the grip back. It worked pretty well.