[Bubster25]

I searched for the topic, but didn't find it. Sorry if I am a broken record.


Rotella T6 for my 2018 DCT Y/N?
Used it in my 2008 for 80K, no problems.


Thanks in advance,
Eric

 

[William Anzik]

https://gl1800riders.com/forums/170...837-ultimate-oil-shootout-dr-max-lubener.html

 

[William Anzik]

https://gl1800riders.com/forums/5-gl1800-tech-board/86884-made-decision-oil.html

 

[Big_Bear]

https://gl1800riders.com/forums/5-gl1800-tech-board/86884-made-decision-oil.html

That's the first I've seen that thread. That was hilarious. Thanks for the laugh.:grin2: ANZIKOIL!

 

[-Hairball-]

Not looking to start another 10 page thread but back in 2008 T6 was still rated for a gasoline engine. T6 is no longer rated for a gasoline engine; however, that does not stop the T6 faithful from still using it in their bike. As always, your bike and your choice. Personally, I use a 4 cycle motorcycle oil that meets/exceeds the requirements for oil that is printed in your owners manual. I run Motul in mine just like I have in every other bike over the last 30+ years and I leave the T6 for my 7.3 diesel.

 

[Freyr]

T-6 works just fine in my DCT....and in my car.........and in my truck.......and my other bike.


Oh. Almost forgot. It also works just fine in my Kawasaki powered zero turn mower.

If I have an engine failure in any of them, I’ll let you know.

 

[ShanghaiDan]

Same formulation as always, they dropped the SN rating because they no longer get the automatic waiver for the oil.

 

[-Hairball-]

It’s not just the SN rating I would be concerned with but responses from Shell Oil that state:

“Dear Sir,
No Rotella Oils are recommended for use in gasoline vehicles with catalytic converters.
Regards,
Shell Technical"

Or another response to a similar inquiry from Shell

“We do not recommend Rotella T6 for engines with catalytic converters."

Again, folks are going to continue to do what they do. Not sure why someone would use a product that is not recommended by a manufacturer for the sake of saving a few bucks instead of buying the recommended product but it is what it is.

In case some of you missed page 226 of the owners manual:

“This motorcycle is equipped with two three-way catalytic converters...A defective catalytic converter contributes to air pollution and can impair your engine’s performance”

 

[ShanghaiDan]

The SN rating is about catalytic converters. They don't have an SN rating anymore (because they don't get the automatic waiver), and thus cannot LEGALLY claim it works with cats. It did a few years back, and the formulation hasn't changed. Ergo: it's fine, other than a few million in testing/compliance annual costs to service a market that is tiny for the main use of T6.

Use what you want. SN is fine for cats and gas vehicles, T6 was SN. The same T6 is made today as was made back when it was SN rated. The rating is dropped because of costs. Fine - same stuff, it doesn't now magically have cat-killing powers...

 

[-Hairball-]

See, now you have me extending this oil thread but I'm too OCD...:grin2:

As I posted earlier, people are going to use what they want and while I am aware that SN includes "emission systems" elements, I still see no reason of using T6. The manufacturer does not recommend it, the owners manual does not recommend it, and the only reason I have read for selecting T6 is that it is generally cheaper than motorcycle specific oil. Granted, the owners manual is more of a "suggestion" manual for many as they treat some requirements listed in the book as though they are written in stone but when it comes to something like required oil the manual no longer applies.

I spoke with Chris today from the Motorcycle Division America Honda (866) 784-1870 and he confirmed my issues with using T6 in the 2018 GW. He advised me that if any problem occurs with the engine or it's components while using T6 oil and the oil can be determined in any way as a possible causation, the warrantee will be voided and all repair costs will be the responsibility of the owner.

Now I already know the next comment to be posted...I have xxx miles on T6 and I have never had an issue...Great, again your bike and your decision. I would still argue that the only oil that should be used in the bike should be whatever oil you want that meets or exceeds all requirements and any oil that does not meet this criteria should not be recommended to others who are looking for information on what oil they should use.

 

[T-88]

See, now you have me extending this oil thread but I'm too OCD...:grin2:

As I posted earlier, people are going to use what they want and while I am aware that SN includes "emission systems" elements, I still see no reason of using T6. The manufacturer does not recommend it, the owners manual does not recommend it, and the only reason I have read for selecting T6 is that it is generally cheaper than motorcycle specific oil. Granted, the owners manual is more of a "suggestion" manual for many as they treat some requirements listed in the book as though they are written in stone but when it comes to something like required oil the manual no longer applies.

I spoke with Chris today from the Motorcycle Division America Honda (866) 784-1870 and he confirmed my issues with using T6 in the 2018 GW. He advised me that if any problem occurs with the engine or it's components while using T6 oil and the oil can be determined in any way as a possible causation, the warrantee will be voided and all repair costs will be the responsibility of the owner.

Now I already know the next comment to be posted...I have xxx miles on T6 and I have never had an issue...Great, again your bike and your decision. I would still argue that the only oil that should be used in the bike should be whatever oil you want that meets or exceeds all requirements and any oil that does not meet this criteria should not be recommended to others who are looking for information on what oil they should use.

I agree with everything you stated.

I understand the many owners who want to save a few dollars whenever the can. Who doesn't?

What I don't understand is the number of people who believe they're somehow smarter than the dozens (hundreds? thousands?) of professional engineers that designed the motorcycles/cars/trucks, and the millions of dollars manufacturers have spent on research, development, and testing on these machines.

There is only one area where real world user experience seems to outperform the manufacturer's recommendations (and this is coming from many years in the BMW R1200RT community), and that's regarding factory recommended tire pressure. BMW recommends 36 psi front tire pressure, and at that pressure many owners experience tire cupping. The real world experience is running the front tire at 39-40 psi often eliminates cupping.

Tim

 

[spork]

Probably ok (I've used T6 on all of my previous out of warranty bikes with no problems) , but for me and my '18 I'm rolling with Honda GN4/oem filters until I am out of warranty. GN4 isn't expensive and meets spec.

 

[remoandiris]

I understand the many owners who want to save a few dollars whenever the can. Who doesn't?

Old saying, "The cheapest thing on a Goldwing is the owner."

 

[INTHEWIND]

I just adore oil threads.:grin2:


opcorn:opcorn:opcorn:opcorn:

 

[lucky_1_chris]

I ran 75/90 gear oil in my last wing. Took it a minute to get warmed up and going, and it stank, but over 500 miles with no problems.

 

[Farmguy]

Once it's settled what oil to use, the thread can transition over to how often it should be changed.

When that's done, the the discussion can move on to what spin-on to use.

Maybe by the the time the spin on is resolved, some supplier will have an adapter so the OEM transmission filter can be subbed out.....

 

[Fred H.]

The point I don't see being discussed is the viscosity of T6. Transmissions shift better on higher viscosity oils, and worse on lower viscosity. T6 is made from 5 weight base oil. This would be a concern for me.

 

[Big H]

When I had my 2005 Wing, I experimented with different brands and types of oil. I found that Amsoil performed the best as for quieter and smoother shifting. Now that I have a 2018 DCT, I have changed the oil 4 times within 9000 miles using different types again. The most recent one and so far performing the best, is the Castro Actevo part synthetic motorcycle oil 10w40. I agree with Hairball about how so many people try to cut corners and cost by not using the recommended oil for the bike. I have even read posts where someone was inquiring about the possibility of using ATF for his forks instead of using genuine fork oil. Why? Maybe save a few bucks? I just don't do it. To each his own of course. Who are we to tell others what to use in their bike that they paid for. We can only try to educate others on what we either know or believe is best for the bike when they ask us. I don't condemn anyone for doing what they think is better. Time will tell if their decision was a good one or not.

Big H

 

[Big_Bear]

This thread is another good example of why I would never buy a used Wing. If a Wing rider can't spend a few extra $ to use an approved oil then maybe they should try a bicycle instead.

 

[spork]

The point I don't see being discussed is the viscosity of T6. Transmissions shift better on higher viscosity oils, and worse on lower viscosity. T6 is made from 5 weight base oil. This would be a concern for me.

Interesting point. One thing I observed "clinically" on my FJR (and also on my BMW) is that with T6 the shifting got more "notchy" and less smooth. The best way to describe it is that the shifting wasn't a smooth click like cutting through butter, it felt much more "mechanical". When I switched to a full ester oil (Motul) with a heavier weight, shifting got much better and smoother on both bikes. Now I am not saying that Motul is some sort of oil panacea, but I have found that motorcycle-specific oils do tend to shift better than T6 in my experience.