GL1800Riders Forums banner

1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
112 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I think the new Tapered Bearing on my bike might be too tight, as the Wing has a very slight weave going down the highway. I read somewhere that is a symptom of the bearings being over-tightened. Any ideas on what foot lbs I should set the torque wrench to.

Thanks!
Reg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,289 Posts
If they are too tight, or if you tighten the spacer nut too much, the bike will feel very stiff coming off center. A quick change in lane position of a couple of feet will feel very weird. The spacer nut keeps the pressure from the bridge from transmitting to the stem bearings, so it shouldn't be tightened down hard, just finger tight.
I tighten to 23 ft lbs, and that seems to work most of the time.
 

·
Chard Member
Joined
·
12,970 Posts
23-25lbs seems to be the way too go. Sounds like they are tight. Might want to put some miles on it if you can stand it to see if it loosens.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,809 Posts
I set mine at 22 ft lbs and am very happy with the results. Like Red said if you can stand it ride it for a little while and see if they loosen up this is in case the race was not seated and the ride will allow them to loosen up some. Good luck
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16,865 Posts
They may well settle in as you hit some bumps and such. I also remind you to consider how you assembled the tab washer and the mated nut above it. Once you get the torque set on the adjuster, set one tab into the adjuster. Turn the upper mated nut down to just make contact with the tab washer then back it off one notch before setting one tab into it. The idea is to have that upper mated nut bear all of the heavy torque of the top bridge nut. I reset mine to 17# to get the pre-load I wanted, upper end of the Honda spec. Then again, my bike is not a wobbler.

prs
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,260 Posts
I had one that wandered and it went away (Maybe I got used to it?). Don't remember but is was not very long. At the time, I thought "Boy that would be a lot of work, I think I'll wait a while."
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,090 Posts
They may well settle in as you hit some bumps and such. I also remind you to consider how you assembled the tab washer and the mated nut above it. Once you get the torque set on the adjuster, set one tab into the adjuster. Turn the upper mated nut down to just make contact with the tab washer then back it off one notch before setting one tab into it. The idea is to have that upper mated nut bear all of the heavy torque of the top bridge nut. I reset mine to 17# to get the pre-load I wanted, upper end of the Honda spec. Then again, my bike is not a wobbler.

prs
What Honda spec ? Honda does not have a spec for tapered steering head bearings in a GL1800. Their 20ft/lb torque is for OEM ball bearings, completely different. Head bearings will not settle after a few miles ridden if they are installed correctly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
112 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Thanks guys. Figured I might as well fix this while I still have the shelter off. :cool:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
112 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
What Honda spec ? Honda does not have a spec for tapered steering head bearings in a GL1800. Their 20ft/lb torque is for OEM ball bearings, completely different. Head bearings will not settle after a few miles ridden if they are installed correctly.
So how much torque do you suggest? :cool:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,092 Posts
You probably already know this, but when folks refer to the OEM spec for tapered stem bearings installed in a GL1800, they are referring to the GL1500 stem bearing spec's which are of course OEM.

What Honda spec ? Honda does not have a spec for tapered steering head bearings in a GL1800. Their 20ft/lb torque is for OEM ball bearings, completely different. Head bearings will not settle after a few miles ridden if they are installed correctly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
112 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
You probably already know this, but when folks refer to the OEM spec for tapered stem bearings installed in a GL1800, they are referring to the GL1500 stem bearing spec's which are of course OEM.
So Larry, what would the spec be for the GL-1500? Is that applicable for the GL-1800 then?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,092 Posts
So Larry, what would the spec be for the GL-1500? Is that applicable for the GL-1800 then?
This post from TravelinLite explains it pretty well.... and yes it works just fine for the 1800....



Directions from service manual:
STEERING BEARING PRE-LOAD

Support the motorcycle securely using safety
stands or a hoist and raise the front wheel off the
ground.
Position the steering stem to the straight ahead
position.
Hook a spring scale to the fork tube between the
fork top and bottom bridges.
Make sure there is no cable, wire harness or hose
interference.
Pull the spring scale keeping it at a right angle to the
steering stem.
Read the scale at the point where the steering stem
just starts to move.
STEERING BEARING PRE-LOAD:
8.8 – 13.7 N (0.9 – 1.4 kgf, 2.0 – 3.1 lbf)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16,865 Posts
What Honda spec ? Honda does not have a spec for tapered steering head bearings in a GL1800. Their 20ft/lb torque is for OEM ball bearings, completely different. Head bearings will not settle after a few miles ridden if they are installed correctly.
The Honda specification to which I was referring was for PRELOAD, not torque. I applied 17 ft pounds of torque to get the PRELOAD I desired which was the upper end of the GL1800 spec for preload as measured by the book with a spring scale. You are correct, that spec by Honda assumed an OE bearing, but I see not reason not to keep the steering nimble, especially given a bike that is not a wobbler.

I agree that perfectly seated race will not settle, but this is not a perfect world and lots of folks do experience settling after races are installed.

prs
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,613 Posts
Given the buried position of the lower race which is difficult to pound in, wait a bit. I did have a pretty tight bike on the '02 which got a bit of a wobble on one set of tires. I put All Balls in but I just waited a bit and it loosened up. The '06 I now have wobbled at any speed and turned into a tank slapper at the 40mph mark accel or decel which was seriously serious. After a Traxxion lower tree which comes with All Balls and progressive mono tubes, nothing. No weave no wobble. On my '02 I used to ride a familiar RT551 for six miles at 65-85 using the entire lane on my side of the road. I didn't even want to try 551 on the '06 wee willy wobbler so I didn't. After installing said improvements, I ride the '06 at 65-85 on 551 using JUST 1/3 of the lane (left of the oil slick and right of the double yellow) and it sticks like it's in a slot. :yes::yes::yes::yes:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
401 Posts
well...

:popcorn::popcorn::popcorn:
45 ft/lbs. And I tightened the lock nut one slot past 45 ft/lbs.
I have no stability issues - the front re-centers after slight/complete (or anything in between) turns left or right with the front wheel off the ground.
So your mileage may vary.

As to one post suggesting backing off the lock nut - read the service manual - DON'T do that. The point of the lock nut is to "lock" the adjustment nut in place, the tabs do not so that, they just hold the system together. If you release the tab and its finger tight it was not working as designed. Again, read the Honda service manual.

on the 2012 (from the service manual)

  • steering bearing adjustment nut 21 ft/lbs
  • steering bearing adjustment lock nut
    • Install the lock nut, within 90 degrees, to align its grooves with the tabs of the lock washer.
    • bend the lock washer tabs...

Sorry for being so abrupt - but that is one component that will get you killed if it fails.:nojoke:

...gene
:popcorn::popcorn::popcorn:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
112 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
The bearings were done last Spring, so they should be seated by now. I don't have a wobble. It's just a very minor weave, as if I was imperceptibly moving the handle bars back & forth at highway speed. Since the front end was done, the bike rides around corners instantly likes it on rails. I suspect that's because of Rocky's Triple Tree. Didn't even bother to put the Superbrace back on. Have no idea what the bearings were torqued to after the pre-loading.

Leaving on a trip to Southern California in two weeks, so would like to have it fixed before I leave.:cool:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,621 Posts
The bearings were done last Spring, so they should be seated by now. I don't have a wobble. It's just a very minor weave, as if I was imperceptibly moving the handle bars back & forth at highway speed. Since the front end was done, the bike rides around corners instantly likes it on rails. I suspect that's because of Rocky's Triple Tree. Didn't even bother to put the Superbrace back on. Have no idea what the bearings were torqued to after the pre-loading.

Leaving on a trip to Southern California in two weeks, so would like to have it fixed before I leave.:cool:
The note in the allball bearings said 30ft lbs. i set mine at 28ft.Steers perfect i would go 25 to 28 seems to work good after a few pot holes they should settle in.
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top