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Gents,
Well, I had the front wheel off for replacement of the front tire and, thought I'd take a look at the brakes. One the right side, they looked a bit thin. But, on the left side, they were more than a bit thin. So, I popped them out and, well, take a look for yourself. These have right at, 25K miles. So, I had a brand new pair (one side only) so, I popped them in. There's no damage to the rotor. The wife told me a month or so ago, "it sounds like I've got something "scraping" or?" Well, me being as deaf as I am, I kind-a just wrote it off.

So, now, it's time to go shopping for brakes. There's a ton of them on ebay. Many of them have different chemical/physical makeup. Original "Honda" ones are seriously more expensive. I've used some off ebay before and was quite satisfied with them. So, anyone got a good line on some replacement brake pads? Thanks in advance.
Scott


 

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I use only OEM... but that's just ME. I get good use out of them.
thecruiser
 

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I've used EBC since the first change. I have 115,000 miles on my bike now. I'm getting ready to change brake pads again-- with ebc pads.
 

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I use the Honda pads. Easy to get online, buy at sale prices. Work quite well so I see no need to look for after market.
 

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That's exactly how my pads looked on the left front when I changed pads a week ago, but I got 45,000 miles out of them. Partzilla.com has originals for $38 or so per set for the originals.
 

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Front Brake

I fire Up

Test disk brake in what condition are t he, I see on one of your brake pads that you rub on your disk, you should change the brake diske who rub.

FlyBoy2121:thumbup:



Gents,
Well, I had the front wheel off for replacement of the front tire and, thought I'd take a look at the brakes. One the right side, they looked a bit thin. But, on the left side, they were more than a bit thin. So, I popped them out and, well, take a look for yourself. These have right at, 25K miles. So, I had a brand new pair (one side only) so, I popped them in. There's no damage to the rotor. The wife told me a month or so ago, "it sounds like I've got something "scraping" or?" Well, me being as deaf as I am, I kind-a just wrote it off.

So, now, it's time to go shopping for brakes. There's a ton of them on ebay. Many of them have different chemical/physical makeup. Original "Honda" ones are seriously more expensive. I've used some off ebay before and was quite satisfied with them. So, anyone got a good line on some replacement brake pads? Thanks in advance.
Scott


 

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I used several sets of EBC on my ST1100 & saved a few bucks, BUT then had to replace the front Rotors because of excess wear. In the long run I don't think you save anything by using non Honda pads.
 

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Went with OEM for peace of mind. I got the new ones in the garage but didnt change them yet. (I have about 25K)
 

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Scott, you're a brave soul to post those pics on this forum. :shock: I get good life out of the OEM pads and I'm satisfied with them.
 

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I've run the EBC metallic, some Kevlar ones off e-bay (very cheap), Vesrah's, and OEM. Of them all, I still prefer the OEM. I do usually carry a set of the cheap kevlar ones for emergency, but have only used them on others bikes as I usually know where my brake pad wear is as fast as I tend to go through tires. :)
 

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Dont mean to hijack the thread, but someone said the rotor should be replaced if metal to metal contact such as we see here happens. As I said, I did the same brake error and don't see any damage to the rotor, but assuming a little scraping did happen to the rotor, what possible problem could that cause? Even if rotors are visibly worn, what problem is going to happen by continuing to run them that way?
Just wondering, probably a dumb question. :roll:
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Dont mean to hijack the thread, but someone said the rotor should be replaced if metal to metal contact such as we see here happens. As I said, I did the same brake error and don't see any damage to the rotor, but assuming a little scraping did happen to the rotor, what possible problem could that cause? Even if rotors are visibly worn, what problem is going to happen by continuing to run them that way?
Just wondering, probably a dumb question. :roll:
Fluke189,
You're not hijacking the thread. You make a valid point. I was going to comment on that reply earlier. I stated in the original post, "There's no damage to the rotor". But, he may not have read that part or, it just didn't sink in. I caught this wear, right at a point where it (the worn pad) barely started hitting the rotor. I inspected that rotor, very closely and, it's basically impossible to see any scraping from a "metal to metal" contact.

I'm not sure why I only got about 25K miles out of them based on others on here stating they've gotten considerably higher mileage on their brakes but, no biggie. I figure it's a wear item so, I guess it depends on the kind of riding you do, where you ride, the type of terrain you may spend most of your time on and maybe a few other variables. I WAS a southern CALIFORNIAN up until about 35 days ago and now, we've relocated in Lake Havasu City AZ. So, 99% of that bikes life was spent in and around all the back country roads, mountains, grades, and much more. To me, that means quite a bit of braking on 10 zillion turns etc. And, well over 98% of it's life is spent with a two-up situation. I'm rarely on that bike without her. So, that may contribute to maybe "premature" wear. Who knows. I'll just throw some new pads on it and, keep on riding.

To CAWing,
Well, posting those pics is sort of "Wake up and pay attention" to not only myself but, others that may get just a bit complacent and forget about things. When I was young, (a few centuries ago) I used to be more diligent in checking things, making sure I was on top of potential issues and more. But, the older I get, the more I just plain "expect" things to work, even without me checking on them every now and then. Well, as you can see, my laziness almost cost me some large coin if I'd have had to run down to "HONDA" and pick up a rotor. So, lesson learned, get in there and check things out every now and then.

Scott
 

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Dont mean to hijack the thread, but someone said the rotor should be replaced if metal to metal contact such as we see here happens. As I said, I did the same brake error and don't see any damage to the rotor, but assuming a little scraping did happen to the rotor, what possible problem could that cause? Even if rotors are visibly worn, what problem is going to happen by continuing to run them that way?
Just wondering, probably a dumb question. :roll:
Measure the rotor thickness and run-out. If it meets spec's and has not turned multi shades of blue you are good to go. A little scraping is a none event. Just de-glaze the rotors, seat/break in the new pads and you are golden.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Measure the rotor thickness and run-out. If it meets spec's and has not turned multi shades of blue you are good to go. A little scraping is a none event. Just de-glaze the rotors, seat/break in the new pads and you are golden.
Larry,
I did measure the thickness and all is well there. There's no shades of blue or, any other color other than sort of "Stainless steel" looking color. The only time these brakes ever got hot was on a 16% grade. Some of you may have been on that grade. It's the one in Black Canyon National Forest, just outside of Montrose CO. It's the one that leads down to the river. That is one seriously steep grade. And, I did heat those brakes up a bit on that one. And, heading back up, that temp needle climbed way above half way 'cause I couldn't get any speed up.

Anyway, just have to order up some new pads and, we're good to go.
Scott
 

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I use only OEM on both my motorcycles and cages. There is a reason they are more expensive. I do believe you used every thing but the squeal on those pads!
 
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