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So, what would you recommend? I'm not a fan of riding at night, but sometimes it's just necessary. The standard lights seem a bit dull, so I'm thinking about installing a set of LED's. At least in the car, the road is lit very well, allowing me to see everything in front of me. If I'm going to do it, I want to do it right the first time, so what brand would you suggest, aside from my modulator are there any other things I would need to change? Thanks all.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Oh, those are bright! I did a search, but kept getting page after page of threads about tail lights and dress up stuff. I'll do another about the EC's. Thanks
 

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I put EC's in the headlights, both high and low beams, and SoCalMotoGear in the driving lights. Super bright without being obnoxious.
 

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SoCal bulbs are easier to install as the adapter is fixed on the back. EC adapters are loose which is just one more thing to hold, balance and line up while you're working blind and swearing.:)

They also carry Kisan modulators if you order direct from them. Make sue you request the latest firmware in the Kisan as they sometimes have interference issues if you have other LEDS elsewhere on the bike.

 

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IMHO brightness isn't the most important factor in headlamps, but rather projection, how far does the light project beyond the bike. This really becomes important riding on a highway in pitch black darkness. It's been awhile since I considered making the change to LED headlights and I don't remember what I found about how well LEDs will project compared to high quality H7 bulbs other than to say I'm still using H7 bulbs. I'll watch this thread.
 

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I would look into Clearwater Driving Lights. I have found that many LED replacment bulbs are great for being seen in the daytime but they don't seem to be very good at night at putting light where you need it.
You may be much better off with a purpose built driving light to get the light down the road where you need it..
I had PIAA's on my last bike but there is also Clearwater Lights that I may go to on this bike.
 

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I have the earlier version of the SoCalMotoGear PathFinder LED headlights on my GL1800. They have the braided style passive style heat sink. The newer version has an aluminum finned passive heat sink that screws onto the bulb itself rather than being a part of the bulb like the braided heatsink. I have the newer version of the Electrical Connection LED bulbs on my GL1500. It doesn't make a difference which heat sink is used, it is just an identification factor. They both do a good job at heat dissipation. To be fair, both the SoCal and the Electrical Connection LED's are excellent light producing bulbs. Their prices are comparable but they sure are high when you compare them to the standard Halogen bulb; over $55 per LED lamp. Halogen bulbs sell for about $7 each.

Both manufacturers/resellers of the LED bulbs use the small drivers between the bulb and the bike so mounting is about the same for both SoCal and EC. You have to find a place to tuck the driver box so that it doesn't interfere with the movement of the forks.

EC - LED Headlight Bulb, H7 Honda Type (GL1800 / F6B, 01-17) – Electrical Connection

SoCal - PATHFINDERLED HONDA GOLD WING GL1800/F6B HIGH PERFORMANCE LED HEADLIGHT KIT


I admit, the comparison of price paid for the LED bulbs versus the Halogen bulbs is not indicative of how much more light or life you get out of the bulbs. I paid a lot more than I should have but most of us are in the same boat. We spend too much on our toys. The LED's do produce better white light and they do shine down the road a long way. Road signs way down the road seem to jump out at you with LED or HID headlights installed.

I had HID bulbs with ballasts for a few years too and they produced wonderful light. But they were trouble prone. The ballasts didn't seem to last as long as they should have. And, the HID's put out more heat than I was comfortable with. Both LED and HID systems produce electrical noise that manifests itself indifferent ways. There is just no way to get around that.

If you do not mind spending lots of money for whiter light that will basically force you to replace all your forward white lights to LED due to color matching of the light beams, by all means do so.
 

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Here's my take on the LED replacements. Great lights but I got some static on my favorite FM stations

 

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I had EC in the low beam position, what I really liked about them was they really make the painted lines on roads show up much better. What I didn’t like was the spades or whatever you call them plug into the bikes harness are to thin so the don’t fit snug enough, when I first got them I thought there was something wrong with them so I paid to ship them back to EC for inspection, EC said there was nothing wrong with them and sent the same set back to me, I used them for quite a while but when I would hit a bump in the road the low beams would sometimes flash because of the very thin spades fitting to loose, so I took them out so I don’t have to worry about them anymore.
 

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I had EC in the low beam position, what I really liked about them was they really make the painted lines on roads show up much better. What I didn’t like was the spades or whatever you call them plug into the bikes harness are to thin so the don’t fit snug enough, when I first got them I thought there was something wrong with them so I paid to ship them back to EC for inspection, EC said there was nothing wrong with them and sent the same set back to me, I used them for quite a while but when I would hit a bump in the road the low beams would sometimes flash because of the very thin spades fitting to loose, so I took them out so I don’t have to worry about them anymore.
There are a couple of ways to take care of the thin connector problem. Either squeeze the female side of the connector a bit to make them narrower or add a thin coat of solder to the male side of the connectors.
 

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And I’m still stubbornly old school. I run the silver star ultras, 90-125 hrs life span, 4100k (kelvin), and available at any Wal-Mart if I use up the pair stashed in the bike. That being said, I’m going on my 3rd year with the set in it now, I’ve clearly exceeded the expectancy of them. I‘m not a fan of the 5000+k LED headlight options, either seeing what is lit up by or having them coming at me. The 5100k Piaa LED driving lights are my downfall, and if I could do it again, I would be at Clearwater.com shopping. Those are awesome. I too, will watch this thread to learn what I can about headlights.
 

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So, what would you recommend? I'm not a fan of riding at night, but sometimes it's just necessary. The standard lights seem a bit dull, so I'm thinking about installing a set of LED's. At least in the car, the road is lit very well, allowing me to see everything in front of me. If I'm going to do it, I want to do it right the first time, so what brand would you suggest, aside from my modulator are there any other things I would need to change? Thanks all.
MountainRider,
About a year ago or so, I went from HID low beam headlights to LED low beams. I did as much research on here as you have and, at that time, I was led to Wingstuff for a better price on an equivalent LED bulb that was used by many on here. So, I purchased them and installed them. As for a comparison to the stock headlight H-7 bulbs, well, yes, they are a bit better. Is it a night and day difference? Not sure I can answer that accurately. You see, I came from HIDs which, were also DIFFERENT than stock bulbs.
Both the HIDs and the LEDs are a bluer type light. But, in all reality, the stock H-7 bulb was pretty darn bright in my opinion. And, there's been a few zillion threads about the construction of the reflective properties of the backing, vs they type of light, i.e. Halogen, LED, HID etc that's thrown at that reflective surface. Some say that an HID and LED are not designed for that type of reflector.

Well, all I can say is, ALL OF THEM WORK. A little differently than each other but, they all work. I saw as far out with an HID as I did with the stock bulb and, without riding back-to-back on a bike with HIDs and one with LEDs as headlights, in the low beam, it's really hard to accurately give good feed back. ANY light is BRIGHT when you look directly into it. But, it's how much is broadcasted that counts.
Scott
 

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I have not run LED in a motorcycle but in my car I have had two sets of LEDs burn out or malfunction at the 10 month mark and I went back to regular bulbs. YMMV
 

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Discussion Starter #16
And I’m still stubbornly old school. I run the silver star ultras, 90-125 hrs life span, 4100k (kelvin), and available at any Wal-Mart if I use up the pair stashed in the bike. That being said, I’m going on my 3rd year with the set in it now, I’ve clearly exceeded the expectancy of them. I‘m not a fan of the 5000+k LED headlight options, either seeing what is lit up by or having them coming at me. The 5100k Piaa LED driving lights are my downfall, and if I could do it again, I would be at Clearwater.com shopping. Those are awesome. I too, will watch this thread to learn what I can about headlights.
Do the Silver Stars produce a super white light, or is it more blue? My ultimate goal is getting visible light down the road. Right now, my biggest issue is two fold. Wet roads at night and fresh black top just seem to absorb light. I watch cars with LED's or the blue lights, and the road seems very visible. With the OEM bulbs, I see black road. Maybe going with the blue bulbs and a good set of driving lights in the lower cowl would improve things. I want that skunk that tries to sneak across the road to be visible before I've already run over it.
 

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I've known Lewis at electricalconnection.com for years. He's an honest person, stands behind his products.

Another friend did the beta testing for the lights. And I used to do calibration work for Sylvania. Optical alignment of the emissivity point is critical on the lights to ensure proper lighting. EC's lights meet those requirements.

I would only use Lewis's LED lights in my headlights. I also evaluated and use auxiliary driving lights for open road riding.
 

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I have SoCal lights in my Wing and F6, Clearwater Sevina / Erica on my Wing. Adding them to the F6 soon, money well spent.
 

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Do the Silver Stars produce a super white light, or is it more blue? My ultimate goal is getting visible light down the road. Right now, my biggest issue is two fold. Wet roads at night and fresh black top just seem to absorb light. I watch cars with LED's or the blue lights, and the road seems very visible. With the OEM bulbs, I see black road. Maybe going with the blue bulbs and a good set of driving lights in the lower cowl would improve things. I want that skunk that tries to sneak across the road to be visible before I've already run over it.
I say they are a white light. As far as needing a lot of money for frequent replacements, I haven’t Seen it. As stated above, I am prepared to replace as needed, but I am pleasantly surprised at the output and durability. 4100k is just white, 5k gets into the blue light spectrum.
 
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