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Discussion Starter #1
One of my throttle cables snapped inside the handlebar switch housing. At the switch, it is the lower cable (that doesn't have the adjuster).

This cable runs in behind the left radiator area and into a mysterious aluminum block that it appears to share with another, shorter throttle cable. These 2 cables interact. The shorter cable then runs to the throttle body drum.

My problem is accessing this aluminum block that they run through. It is wedged into the corner of the bike frame and I have no clue how to get into it. Photos below tell the story.


When this snapped, it put about an inch of play into the throttle grip, but I could still accelerate.


Here you can see the slack it left at the throttle body drum. This slack is actually in a cable that is only about 6 inches long, but interacts with the cable that snapped.


And here is the aluminum block that the long and short cable seem to pass through. I tried removing the allen bolt, but the block stayed put. There is no accessing the recessed phillips screw that is seen here. It is basically under the frame member. This is just above the throttle body


And finally, this is where the cable that is frayed, goes into the other side of the aluminum block. There is so little room to work the connections there, I can't imagine that this aluminum block can't somehow be removed. Any insight would be much appreciated. The service manual gives no information on replacing throttle cables.
 

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Boy, If this don't look like a perfect argument for extended warranty.....

humm that reminds me ..I have to renew mine next month :thumbup:

Good luck on your repair .... looks like you'll need some.
 

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What you speak of is the cruise control cancel switch. The cable runs from the grip to the drum inside the switch, then a short one to the throttle linkage. LONG story short is removal of the two allen head 4mm bolts using a cut down allen wrench for the rt side, then I used a long t-handle allen head driver while prying slightly the unit to the outside of the frame rail. Once it is loose I believe it will only come out to the outside, which means removing the left rad. To do that you must remove the windshield, mirrors and front fairing. Fun, eh ? I'm into the last stages of front fairing removal as I type this and am waiting for a back ordered "C" cable (the short one).
Some have removed said unit without removing the rad/front fairing completely but I can't disconnect the electrical from the unit. Oh well, in for a penny and all that.

I have extended warrenty until 2011 but it does not cover cables. Cables wear, apparently. Good luck to you. Take a deep breath, mark some baggies for fasteners and get hold of a service manual however you can.

Wheeeeeeeee! Working on a Wing is just too much fun ;):eek:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Boy, If this don't look like a perfect argument for extended warranty.....
Oh, I have the extended warranty. Even if they did cover cables, I wouldn't take it into the shop unless I absolutely couldn't do the work myself. I learned that lesson the first few times I took my bike to a Honda shop for repairs.
 

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Ok,the front fairing is off and the rad is drained and removed. The drum switch is completely accessible and you don't have to disconnect the wire (which runs back into the bike "somewhere" and is hardwired to the drum switch. I removed the plate and both cables, put a dab of lube on the drum axle and now I wait for the "short cable" to come off backorder.

This now gives me a chance to inspect so much more and get things really cleaned up while my sweety is naked. (guess I should re-phrase that:thumbup:)

It's a big job but I'm glad I did it this way. Having issues with my photo hosting....stay tuned. Sorry, this link will have to do for now.

http://photoshare.shaw.ca/messages/viewshow/8507857917-1235235099-40200/parm/
 
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