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Discussion Starter #1
I'm replacing the throttle return cable (the one at the top of the throttle body) I have it disconnected and pulled through behind the fork tubes, disconnected from the throttle body but can't figure out how to remove that mounting block under the left upper frame rail. Can't get an Allen head wrench or socket on the thing because there is no clearance. Any ideas ?

http://photoshare.shaw.ca/messages/viewthumb/8507866239-1234825796-18382/gallery/page/1/15/


 

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Bolt

You may need to cut off a short section of an allen wrench. Then use the short allen and a box or open wrench to loosen / remove the bolt.
 

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I'm replacing the throttle return cable (the one at the top of the throttle body) I have it disconnected and pulled through behind the fork tubes, disconnected from the throttle body but can't figure out how to remove that mounting block under the left upper frame rail. Can't get an Allen head wrench or socket on the thing because there is no clearance. Any ideas ?

http://photoshare.shaw.ca/messages/viewimage/8507866239-1234825796-18382/parm/12369089/page/1/15
I had mine all apart on my 2001 when I replaced all 3 throttle cables...........you need a long shaft T-handle hex wrench (9" or more). Get the ones with the ball end.........it allows you to come in at a slight angle.
You can also get a long screw driver down there and very slightly pry the "box" slightly to the left to get a bit more access.
Just put some sticky goop on the Allen wrench so you don't drop the screw.
Replacing the throttle cables on the 1800 is not for the faint of heart. :eek:4:

Here's a few of my pictures of the replacement..........
http://www.ridersrally.org//bb3kit/...226&p=105946&hilit=throttle+and+cable#p105946














 

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Thanks guys, got the rt side one off but will need a second pair of hands for the left one. I hope the install and re-assembly is a tad easier.
 

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OK, I give. How do you get that cruise cancel switch out from between the frame rails? This thing has me more than a wee bit frustrated.......
 

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I am doing the same process as you are. One of my cables snapped in the handlebar switch housing... my post is here - http://gl1800riders.com/forums/showthread.php?t=204809

As others have mentioned, it seems that a full right turn on the handlebars is putting a lot of stress on these cables. As you can see in my post in the last photo, just above the red arrow that I drew on the right hand side, that cable's plastic coating has separated from the adjuster and is almost at a 90 degree angle.

That is not the cable that snapped, but certainly needs to be replaced as well. Glad I purchased all 3 cables.

As for the removal of that aluminum block, I haven't done it yet, but those 2 allen bolts need to come out. One is easily accessible. The other is the one that will be the challenge. I will try and find the T handle allen wrench that Brian mentioned.
 

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Pete contacted me via email asking how to get the switch box out of the bike.............it's a bear to say the least.
Mine was on a 2001 and I managed to loosen up the left radiator mounting bolts and nudge it out of the way just enough to get the switch housing out of between he frame tubes and then out the front of the bike.
Other years this may not be possible, I don't know............the 2006 and later models could be tougher with the larger radiators/fans.

Another option, I suppose, is to disassemble the cancel switch just where it sits as shown in my photo above............should be enough slack to move it down and in the open. But it would be tough working conditions getting the switch disassembled and the cable ends removed.

Definitely not an easy task...........I didn't know what I was getting into when I tackled mine well over 2 years ago.

Didn't hear back if Pete got his fixed yet or not...........
 

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I don't think mine is going to be so bad. I pushed on it with my hand last night and it seems that it budged enough to get a decent shot at the hex bolt.

Looks like it will just need a set of helping hands pushing on it while I unscrew the bolt... or maybe a piece of round wood stock cut to size, with one end against the cancel switch and the other end wedged against the opposite side frame member.
 

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Ok, this went pretty easily. I jammed a screwdriver up against the cruise cancel switch and wedged the other end against the opposite side frame to push the unit out:



I went to a few stores to try and find a long set of ball end hex wrenches, but to no avail. I bought a cheap set and planned to JB weld 2 of the wrenches together to get the length I needed, but I found that a standard size works just fine. Here is the pic with the wrench in the bolt and I have already gotten about 2 turns on it. It IS imperative to have the ball-end type wrench!




Actually, the toughest part of this job for me so far has been the removal of the four phillips head screws that hold the air cleaner housing on at the air tunnels. Although easily accessible, they are subject to bits of old fuel which basically turns to a sticky varnish. The screws are not top quality and easily strip the phillips head. I was able to get three out, but one stripped and I had to go get a stripped screw removal kit. That alone took almost 2 hours to get out.

I digress. back to the subject at hand...

10 minutes later... there it is. I don't think it will be quite so easy putting it back though. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Once I had the right tool the allen heads were a breeze but I just could not make it come through the inside so (as per this related post, http://gl1800riders.com/forums/showthread.php?t=204809 )
I did remove the front fairing, the left rad and of course the cancel switch just fell out.
 

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Jeff,

Do yourself a favor and cover up those throttle bodies.........a tough job could turn into a nightmare if you dropped something in there. :22yikes:


btw - Nice to see you posting again. ;)
 

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Jeff,

Do yourself a favor and cover up those throttle bodies.........a tough job could turn into a nightmare if you dropped something in there. :22yikes:


btw - Nice to see you posting again. ;)
Hi Brian. Yeah I had them covered, but removed it for the photos. Appreciate that you went through this already and ponied up some great info to help us out.

I haven't opened up the handlebar switch yet... are there any surprises or gotchas waiting there?

I just got the cables installed into the cruise cancel switch and will put that in and tackle the handlebar switch tomorrow.

Pete - yeah I also removed my front fairing, but avoided removing the radiator. Well, so far anyway. If this thing turns out to be extremely difficult to re-install, I may have to go that route.

I think once I get the rear bolt started, I should be able to push the thing over and get that forward bolt going too.

Since you have the front fairing off... may want to consider replacing your headlight bulbs... at least the high beams, while you have perfect access. I had a low beam go out about 2 weeks ago, so I replaced both lows at that time. Just today I bought 2 new highs to throw in there with them. Sylvania Silverstar Ultra's. (H7)
 

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I haven't opened up the handlebar switch yet... are there any surprises or gotchas waiting there?
only thing to make sure you do is : no matter how tiny a screw looks inside the switch, they take a #2 phillips (like the one you used to remove the housing screws). Those screws are made of reconstitutied rust an strip easily.

#2 phillips!

 

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You ain't kiddin'


If my throttle cable(s) ever go bad again, I"m selling the bike. :nojoke: Ridiculous.
:22yikes:
Will the patient pull through?

Jeff,

Nothing tricky about the handlebar controls other than the screws are a PIA to remove as they are so small and also getting at the cable ends sort of sux also.
Just remember to thread in the pull cable before you route it and hook it up at the other end...........it's threaded at the handlebar assembly (see pic below).

Wish I would of took more pictures when I removed and replaced my throttle cables. What a PIA you guys had to remove the front fairing. I know it wasn't easy but I did get the switch out without removing either the radiator or the front fairing.

Good luck surgeons! :thumbup:

Here's a couple more pictures of the little devil..............





 

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You ain't kiddin'

If my throttle cable(s) ever go bad again, I"m selling the bike. :nojoke: Ridiculous.
The worst of it is, there is no procedure for this in the service manual. At least not that I could find.

They should include a chapter for it entitled:
Got a few days? Then you're gonna love this!
 

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:22yikes:
Jeff,

Wish I would of took more pictures when I removed and replaced my throttle cables. What a PIA you guys had to remove the front fairing.
All in all, it's not technically that bad. Just time consuming. The front fairing is just a couple trim clips, screws and electrical connections. Gives me a good opportunity to clean that entire area up, inspect things your normally wouldn't have access to and to easily change out the high beams.

The worst thing I am coming across (besides the cancel switch removal) is stripping screw heads. I had to order all 4 for the throttle body air tunnels, 6 for the mirrors, and of course the 1 that dropped into the abyss that goes to the cruise cancel switch. Yeah, the one you said to use goop on.

I've taken pictures pretty much along the way, maybe I will update my website with the procedure. I haven't done anything new there for a few years.

I do have one question for you, Brian - when I pulled the air cleaner box, the (pulse?) air supply hose that comes straight up to the bottom of the box... how did you manage getting that back on?

That hose is so short and there is so little room to get your fingers to it...
 

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I do have one question for you, Brian - when I pulled the air cleaner box, the (pulse?) air supply hose that comes straight up to the bottom of the box... how did you manage getting that back on?

That hose is so short and there is so little room to get your fingers to it...

A lot of cussing, swearing, and a 6-pack..............of Diet Coke. :lol:
I managed to put it back on with my fingers...........by the time I finally got it on it was probably twice as long as original from tugging and pulling. :?
It can be done but requires many attempts...........if you have a female around the house that has smaller hands that is the ticket.
 

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It can be done but requires many attempts...........if you have a female around the house that has smaller hands that is the ticket.
Ok. Here's some tricks to make a couple of these processes easier.

First off, the forward allen bolt that holds the cruise cancel switch in place. With it being partially under the frame, it is very difficult to line it up when putting it back in. Everyone should have a telescoping magnetic rod in their toolkit. This thing is worth it's weight in gold and has gotten me out of more than a few jams -


And the way that I used it was to come in from the front of the bike and make contact with the allen bolt. It is a strong magnet and allows you to easily manipulate the angle of the bolt and holds it in place nicely even while you spin the bolt.



As for that nasty little hose that attaches to the bottom of the air cleaner housing... that turned out to be a piece of cake. At first I was going to skip using the clamp thinking it was going to be tough, but I have a little trick for that also.

(Don't forget to put the throttle body gasket in place if you removed it.)

First, be sure to turn the clamp on the yellowish hose so it is facing the front of the bike. Now, connect the longer hose that goes to the right underside of the air box. That hose still gives you maneuvering room when it is connected. Now, use something with some length, a small screwdriver, allen wrench, nail punch, etc and stick it through the hole of the airbox housing and guide the housing down with your tool going into the opening of the hose. I used an allen wrench as seen here.



and from the front of the bike, behind the front fender you can see the end of the allen wrench inside the hose. It keeps it somewhat lined up and allows you jostle it into place.



Next, replace one of the air tunnels to hold the airbox in place so you can exert some force against it. There was no way I could get my hands in the opening to push the hose on. A pair of long needle nose pliers did the job nicely. You have to (obviously) come in from behind the front wheel fender. You can easily push the hose all the way up, follwed by the clamp.

Don't forget to put the throttle body gasket in place if you removed it.
 
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