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Discussion Starter #1
If you swap the stock Coolant Drain for a Brass T-Ftg, and a Short downwards facing length of hose, then you get:
1) A "Sediment Sump" to passively collect debris in the system;
2) An Attachment "Inlet" via which you can suck water/coolant UP into the system, for a reverse-bleed from bottom > upwards. This method does not require any Burping of air after the fill is done. I put a temporary hose as shown, into a jug of water/coolant, and a shop vacuum atop the radiator fill, to pull fluid up/inwards.
 

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I am not sure if the sediment collection would do much, but sucking in the coolant could easily eliminate the need to burp the "baby". The low air pressure in the system drawing in the new coolant will reduce the size of any air bubble if one could even occur when the relative pressure normalizes after removing the suction. Just having a drain that you can get to without removing the evap canister is also a plus.
 

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There should be no reason to remove the evap canister for accessing the coolant drain. The canister is towards the right side of the bike and the coolant drain is towards the left side by the oil filter as shown in the above photo. The coolant drain can even be accessed without having to remove the lower cowl once you figure out where it is.



Now getting to the clutch bleed fitting without removing the evap cannister would be hard. Maybe that is what you were thinking about?
 

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motorcycle cowboy
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Why is the worm gear clamp attached to the oil filter?
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)

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It's Safety-Wired (along with the Oil Drain Bolt), to prevent the oil filter from Unscrewing.
Sure sounds like an Aircraft Mechanic! Is it .032 or .042?

Greg
2004 GL1800
Rider 123, 2019 Tour of Honor
Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 
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