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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
In looking through this thread, I didn't see where anyone suggested pushing on the valve stem a bit while checking for leaks to simulate the force(s) on the valve stem when at highway speed. I have seen a valve stem that would leak at the base only when the end of the stem was pushed toward the rim.
bingo noticed a very slight bubbling around threads. The valve needed adjustment it took nearly a full turn to tighten… This valve was installed by a shop and I’m not sure if any thread sealants were used. can Blue thread lock medium strength be used on valves? Thanks for your help every one by the way!!! I was avoiding to have to pull that wheel/hub off….
 

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Not often, but sometimes a cast rim will leak too.
 

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Do not use any thread sealant on the threads of a metal valve stem, your leak was because of one of three things. One the shop did not tighten the valve adequately when installed. Two the rubber valve seal was installed incorrectly. Three the valve was an old valve and the valve seal had lost it's pliancy. This has happened to me and it was because of the valve seal aging and losing it's pliancy. As the rubber ages it shrinks and hardens.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Do not use any thread sealant on the threads of a metal valve stem, your leak was because of one of three things. One the shop did not tighten the valve adequately when installed. Two the rubber valve seal was installed incorrectly. Three the valve was an old valve and the valve seal had lost it's pliancy. This has happened to me and it was because of the valve seal aging and losing it's pliancy. As the rubber ages it shrinks and hardens.
I figured there was a reason why there was no sealant I tightened and will keep an eye on it maybe a new valve maybe in order when we change tire…..
 

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From which part of the wheel/rim? This is CTX1300 which has the splines attached as well…
Right through the casting between the bead seats. I've only seen it one time and it was on a friends wheel. Funny thing is, he is still just topping the air off each week. :)
 

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I would have removed the tire and placed in a tub of water is the only other diagnosis tool left.
The tire/wheel assembly needs to be put in water. If no air bubbles, check it at various air pressures. For example 45, then 35ish, then 25psi. Also, a trained eye can spot them quickly, while an untrained eye will not spot them at all. I had my new guy looking for a slow leak. He'd been patiently looking, turning the tire, looking for a bubble. I came over and spotted the slow leak in seconds. In this case it was a bead leak 2" below the water line. The bubble was following the wheel. I knew to watch at the water line too ... the new guy didn't.
 

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Leaking tires can sure try your patience. Wait until you pull one off with slime in it. And don’t know it’s there. I’ve had brand new valve stems with loose cores so even time I put in a new, out of the box, stem, I check the valve core for tightness. Corroded aluminum wheels have some fun problems too. Glad you found it Joen.
 
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