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Discussion Starter #1
I am working on designing a trailer hitch to have a friend weld up possibly and fear I may be putting too much stress on the design so I'm hoping someone on here is educated enough to tell me if I will be safe or not. The hitch frame/mount I use is the vertical trailer hitch and will be basing it off of this.

The main concern I have is since I want this to be a slightly convertible setup to share a common part that will incorporate a flag pole mount I may be sticking the ball too far aft.

In its main setup I will have a rack attached to the back of the setup and am fairly confident it will not be too much stress for a small 11X18 rack(I can modify the final dimensions but this is just one of the small cooler sizes I have in the garage already) so I can put a cooler or small bag back there when I go on some longer trips with the wife that will not require a trailer.

The secondary setup would allow me to remove the rack and keep the flagpole mount and add a ball for a trailer. However after some drawing in sketchup it looks like the ball would be about 11-12 inches aft of the mount on the bike. Would this put too much stress on the mount or would this be too far aft for clearance issues while riding? I don't currently have a trailer but may look into one in the future and would like to make this so I don't need to change the design or throw it away if I ever get a trailer.
 
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I built all the hitches for my bikes over the years and the only real trick is to make sure it bolts to the frame, directly or indirectly. On my wing and valk the hitch mounts to the saddlebag frame which intern attaches to the main frame.
I copied the U-line design which is a fine hitch to begin with. for the reciever portion use a 6" long piece of 1-1/8" square tube and your good to go. I don't use a ball hitch as my trailer has a custom designed 360 degree swivel hitch that locks directly into the receiver. So no chance it can come loose even in a crash. And no Ugly ball hitch hanging off the back.

 

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The more expensive commercially available hitches attach directly to the frame. My hitch attaches to the frame horizontally but to the sub frame vertically, as the vertical force bears only the tongue weight, which should never exceed about 25 pounds.
 

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The more expensive commercially available hitches attach directly to the frame. My hitch attaches to the frame horizontally but to the sub frame vertically, as the vertical force bears only the tongue weight, which should never exceed about 25 pounds.
The 25 pounds you mention may not always be true. Tongue weight should be 10 to 15% of total trailer weight. The folks pulling a fully loaded camper will probably be at least 50 pounds tongue weight.

Willie Wilson WD9FHA
Newburgh, IN
MARC
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IBA #22660
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Member of the All the Way Gang-2009 Ride for the Relay
http://www.ridefortherelay.com/
 

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I made one that the towing load is from the frame and the vertical from the sub frame. I made it with the center section removable with a vertical receiver. This would allow you to remove the draw bar and replace it with a flag pole holder.



I put a bolt through the receiver and welded two pinch bolts to it to keep the setup from rattling.



If you want to increase the tongue weight by adding two straps from the hitch to the frame under the seat.


I didn't want a ball so I used a pin/heim joint for the trailer coupling.





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Discussion Starter #6
I must have mis-spoke when I typed the first thread. I already have a vertical trailer hitch that can be seen here http://www.addonaccessories.net/shop_details.asp?cat=-GL1800+Rear&prod=TRAILER+HITCH+-+RECEIVER

What I am considering is adding a new part that plugs into the receiver. Here is the basic design of it, keep in mind, its fairly crude at this point and needs tweaking but it should give you an idea of what I want to build.
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a315/blackaero1/Luggagerackconvertibledesign1.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I didn't want a ball so I used a pin/heim joint for the trailer coupling.





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A pin/hiem joint may be what I go with, but the basics of the design are still the same.
 

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Oh, I see, I misunderstood your post.



If this is the case, I don't think you want to extend the point of connection any further aft than necessary. The more you cantilever the hitch out, the more leverage your load will have on the bike. The cooler rack with the flag should be OK. If you want to fly a flag while towing, couldn't you put the flag mount and ice chest rack on the trailer tongue?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
That was another option I was considering and may just go with that. It would probably be cheaper as well since its less involved. Since we don't have a trailer right now the more important aspect of it is the cooler rack and flagpole holder without the option of a trailer ball. I can build a cheap cooler rack to bolt onto the tongue fairly easily in my garage and a flag pole holder would be fairly easy as well once we do eventually get a trailer.
 

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I am working on designing a trailer hitch to have a friend weld up possibly and fear I may be putting too much stress on the design so I'm hoping someone on here is educated enough to tell me if I will be safe or not. The hitch frame/mount I use is the vertical trailer hitch and will be basing it off of this.
If you have any doubts, why not just buy a hitch with a proven track record.
You can buy A new Rivco hitch from Directline for $329.
By the time you purchase all of the materials and figure in yours and your welders time, You will probably be money ahead.
 

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pin hiem joint!

A pin/hiem joint may be what I go with, but the basics of the design are still the same.
Hello I want the same pin heim joint where did you get yours? I love how bushtec does their trailers like that but I am making my own little camper and I wanted to incorporate that idea into my farkle :) thanks!
 

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Hello I want the same pin heim joint where did you get yours? I love how bushtec does their trailers like that but I am making my own little camper and I wanted to incorporate that idea into my farkle :) thanks!
Heim joints are not hard to come by. Almost any bolt supply house should be able to help you out.
I am curious though. Is there a specific reason you want to use a heim joint instead of a conventional ball and coupler?
 

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That heim joint looks a lot like parts of a 3-point hitch from tractors/equipment.
 

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Heim joints are not hard to come by. Almost any bolt supply house should be able to help you out.
I am curious though. Is there a specific reason you want to use a heim joint instead of a conventional ball and coupler?
I like the no lash feature of it it looks nice and easy just set it on and lock it down. and I think it looks pretty cool cleaner looking than the ball coupler. I tend to gravitate toward more unusual things.
 
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