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........ I have a 2002 1800. Due to "cold-natured" wife who has a Gerbing suit, but still has to take 3 layers of clothes, we've run out of room on the saddle bags, trunk, and rack bag. We plan to go to Billings next summer so I'm getting a trailer out of neccessity.
.........About the bike hitch receiver: I saw a winger taking off a Kury hitch to get his rear flat tire out and I don't want Kury. And Big Bike wants $229.00 ......... outrageous, in my opinion.
........I have a shop, cutting rig, welder, and "tons" of scrap metal. I talked to a man on a Patriot Guard mission who made his own hitch and bolted it up. Have any of you made your own hitch? Seems like since only the receiver and ball will actually show, then what's underneath wouldn't have to be "perfect" as long as it was sturdy.
..........Thanks for any advice. Ride Safe, Stobby.
 

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Have you ever been to Billings or anywhere in the northern plains in July? It's almost always a hot place. In fact, it's nice to get to the higher mountain elevations to find some cooler temps. If your only reason to get a hitch and trailer is to hold cold weather gear for the trip to Wing Ding, I'd forget about it.
 

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Stobby, do yourself a favor and get a Bushtec hitch. Easy to istall and has a center section you can remove to get the tire out. The hitch attaches to the main frame of the bike not the sub-frame. I to have alot of metal fab equipment, with experance and have made several hitches for vans trucks and Jeeps but I would not attempt making one for my bike. Take a look at the Bushtec on HDL and you can see it took more than a few bend to make it right.
 

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I don't change my own tires, but the shop that does it for me charges less for labor changing the rear on my '05 1800 with a Bushtec hitch than they did for changing the tire on my '00 1500 without a hitch.
 

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Gordon - If you ever did both, you would know why.

1800 - Put it on the stand, take off 5 lug nuts, drop wheel down on the floor - 10 minutes taking time for a coffee.

1500 - Put it on the stand, take off saddlebag, take off rear fender, remove axle bolt, loosen exhaust system, pull axle, remove differential, grease spline, etc - 2 hours minimum, no time for coffee.

Stobby - yes, I have made one. I even had a Bushtec laying on the floor I could copy. And I have a pretty complete shop to do it in. By the time I got done, I had about 8 hours in it, didn't like the looks of it, so I bought one. Cut the other one up and put it on a 1500 - that was a piece of cake. Problem with the 1800 is having a place to fasten it - no frame in the back end. Making a hitch for the 1800 is definately not cost effective. By the way, not even the receiver shows - only the hitch when its on.
 

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I've got a Dauntless. The center section is removable so you can get the rear wheel out without taking the hitch off. There are other models with the same feature. Some folks feel that a hitch shouldn't be mounted to the subframe, which this one and most others are, but I've never heard of a subframe failure due to a hitch being attached to it. So, IMO, that concern is a non-issue. Currently, this one is $300. Here's the link:
http://www.dauntlessmotors.com/hitch-pages/honda1800cc.htm
 

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Papa Benny,

If you lift the bike up on a LIFT, all you do is take off the 5 lugs and let it drop out of the bottom. This is the only way we change tires!

If you are on the road, then you use the center stand, pull the license plate and center section between the fenders, Loosen one side of the cross member and slide it out the back once the lugs are off. (with a Bushtec v2)

Dawg
 

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Like the Dawg said - on the lift, just drop it to the floor.

If you are running a 70 series rear, retract the suspension before you drop it to the floor. Its is just a little taller, and you have to wiggle it to make it clear.
 

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Definitely consider the bushtec hitch. Very well made and easy to install. It can taken off to remove the rear tire but why go through the hassle. I use a lift, raise the bike high and drop the wheel out the bottom. If I ever have to do that without a lift I will use the saddle bag floor mats to protect the bike, lay the bike on its right side and remove the rear wheel. The 70 tires can be a little tricky but after doing it once you will be a pro. Take about 5 minutes.
 

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I installed the hitch from Add-On. Great hitch and it is only about $150.00. With the hitch out the receiver doesent show as it is verticle.
 

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Dauntless, no question about it! Mine has worked fine and easy install.
 

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One Word Bushtec!

If you can make it for less DO it! But if it fails you can only blame yourself.

http://www.bushtec.com/
 

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I have a Dauntless hitch because I didn't think the Bushtec was worth the extra $100. But then I don't use a trailer much.
The verticle support just has to support the tongue weight, which at around 20# the subframe can certainly handle. But consider that the subframe was only designed to handle the weight of the trunk and saddlebags loaded to capacity. If you add over 20# on top of that then you are overloading it. So if you go with the Dauntless, don't put much weight in the trunk & saddlebags when you are pulling the trailer. Load it all in the trailer and you'll be OK.
The other thing to consider is how much of the time will you be pulling a trailer. If you ride 15K to 20K miles per year and pull the trailer for 2K or 3K miles and take the above precautions a Dauntless will suffice.
If money is no object or you don't want to be concerned about these things then go for a Bushtec or Rivco hitch.
 

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I'd say Bushtec too - that's the one I chose. But if one thinks $229 is outrageous...

I didn't want any problems in that area so I got the best. Bushtec is the best.
 

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We just did some major repair work on the rear frame of a 1500 where the receiver was attached to the steel frame tubing. Both sides of the tube frame was broken where the hitch attached. Wound up finishing the cut, putting in solid bar stock into the tubing, and welding it back together. All caused by pulling a trailer or cooler about 10000 miles with a poorly designed receiver.

That is why I am not impressed with the sub-frame mounted hitches. Sure, they work for awhile. They will pull a trailer - for awhile. But the added stress of a cooler or a luggage rack is going to toast something.

I used a Bushtec (V-1 - before they made options) for over 30K miles with a trailer (both camper and cargo), and another 40K miles with a cooler, and it is still intact. But it is mounted to the frame, not to some tube stock that is only supposed to carry a trunk and saddlebag.

I would suggest if you need to scrimp on the cost of the receiver, just do not get one. A cheap tack on will cost more in the long run.
 
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