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Discussion Starter #1
The lights went out on my trailer today. (bulbs are fine) If I run a hot and ground back to the female side of the pig tail (on the trailer) I get lights.

When I check the male posts on the bike the reading I get is 4.5 volts. Is there a relay involved with the wiring harness that could be bad or a possible blown fuse I'm not aware of?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I didnt install the system, I had it done almost three years ago so I cant tell you what was or wasnt done. Assuming one was installed where is the most likely place it would be located? I've looked under the seat with no luck. Ive been trying to follow the wiring to see exactly where it goes. I think I'll have to remove the rear wheel to get a better look.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks Gary, go figure, I'd be looking in the wrong place. I just looked up Rivco hitch and it shows a picutre just as you described........Thanks!
 

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I just got my Piggy and my hitch. the hitch is installed, and I'm ready to do the wiring. The Piggy is 4 wire. I'm not sure about the Wing. It's an 06.

I've read here about isolaters, are they recommended? Do the instructions come with the isolater? How vague are they?

Anyone have pics of their instalation of wiring?

Need help. lol

truck
 

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Truck,

The isolators are needed.... Keeps a short in the trailer from taking out the smaller gauge wiring in the back of the bike.
Ive used 3 different ones so far, all the directions are simple, all plug and play.
Had one isolator burn up after a run through deep water.... Lost the left rear blinker on the second one when I accidentally shorted out the wiring tinkering to "fix it when it wasnt broke"... and the third one I just installed a few weeks ago.
Lots of folks use Uhaul connections... must be I have stupid dealers in my area cause the three uhaul shops Ive been to locally all look at me stupidly when I show them the info. Ive been using show chrome stuff, works if I dont try to fix it....*sigh*...

Bob
 

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The isolators are needed on most trailers. I am fortunate in that the Tailwind does not require them. That's one less thing to fall to Murphy's law.

Andy
 

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Discussion Starter #8
My Isolator is a Rivco. I finally nailed down my problem to a bad ground. However the gound wire to the Isolter is bad. If I connect a new ground wire to the wire runing from the frame to the isolator I still have nothing. If I connect that same new ground wire to the out side of the isolator going to the trialer everythign works fine.

My question is for anyone in the know, is my Isolator toast and in need of being replaced or do I just run a new ground to pigtail and assume every thing is protected?
 

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The ground to the isolator is still good or you would not get function with the external ground, SO - Run a good ground to the trailer and you should have no further problems. Good trouble shooting on your part!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I thinks its worse than a simple ground. For the ground I used the exact same wire and grounding point just bypassed the Isolator. Everything worked perfect so I buttoned it up. I made a costco run and stopped for gas on the way back only to find I have no blinkers (on the trailer) Except when I hit the brakes then the right blinker will blink (if its on) but the brake and tail lights go out. Nothing has been changed in the wiring with the exception of this ground. With the ground as it was I have nothing. I've checked all the wiring at the connector and everything is as it should be. At this point I cant help but think the Isolator is toast. What else can I look for?


EDIT; rather than pull out any mor eof the little hair I have left I pulled on the graound wire to the isolator. tug and puch on it a bit and everything works again. The ground problem seems to be within the isolator itself. At least now I know I haven't completely lost my mind... Don't ask my kids to confirm that however.
 

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Joseph,

The isolator will need ground (negative) for the incoming leads from the brakes, R&L turn, and Marker to refer to in either a sold state of relay type isolator. If the ground is floating within the isolator module, then it may seek ground (negative) from a filiment load that is not powered, which will then be at ground. It sounds like the ground is loose as you have found. An open ground or negative can play havoc with troubleshooting.

I have had some customers come in to pick up a trailer with wiring problems, so we made a break-out harness with a male 6 pin on one end and a female 6 pin on the other with a tap on each of the six wires that we can monitor. I have not followed this thread and should go back and see what your system is and whether your trailer has separate turn signal lights or not.

If you have separate turn signal lights, and all of the lights have low filiment loads, such as LED systems, you could just eliminate the isolator temporarily to be able to use your trailer. If you have high current stop lights, then the load might be high for the brake light relays of the bike.

Also, I can send you the diagram we use for our isolator which uses plug in headlight relays that you can buy locally and make your own isolator.

I am sure that if you have a defective isolator it will be warrantied.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks Tom, & John... For what ever reason It wont work off the ground as is. However by feeding an additonal feed to both sides of the isolator from the same grounding point on the frame it works (three gounding wires was the charm) . I have no idea why but its working and at this point Im not sure I would understand why it made a differance if I took 6 months of classes.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Tom, at one point I was so frustrated I started hoping it would short out, burning the trailer to the ground... giving me the option of buying a new tailwind....
 

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Joseph,

I will eMail you a copy of our schematic on our isolator. It has some extra things like a battery charging circuit and a compressor controller, but the light isolation system is essentially the same as the small units that use relays, except for the size of the relay contacts. This might help you understand how the isolator works, and then if you envision cutting the negative or ground wire somewhere in the circuit, you can start to see the quirky things that will happen.
 

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no turn or brake

OK,,, I installed the EC isolater with the sub harness, and the U-haul converter. the trailer has running lights, but no turn or stop lights.
I used a test light at the female trailer from the bike plug, and nothing out of either of the turn/brake terminals. I used an ohm meter through the converter, and read 2.9 ohms one direction and 00 ohms the other. There is power to the converter, but it's not going through to the trailer. Did I get a bad converter? Or am I missing something eleswhere?

Truck
 

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Do you have a 5 to 4 converter? That could be where you are having a problem. They do have problems. If So check you stuff on the bike side of the converter and see if everything is ok. then Go to UHaul and the 16.95 converter.......If none of this applies then disregard
 

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The converter I got is a U-Haul 13486 16.95, and everything works on the bike side. :( The converter probably uses diodes and that's why I can only get a resistance through it checking in one direction. I shortened the converter harness on the trailer side, and soldered in a 4 way connection, since the converter connector would not connect with the isolater. Has anyone else shortened the converter?

truck
 

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truckco said:
The converter I got is a U-Haul 13486 16.95, and everything works on the bike side. :( The converter probably uses diodes and that's why I can only get a resistance through it checking in one direction. I shortened the converter harness on the trailer side, and soldered in a 4 way connection, since the converter connector would not connect with the isolater. Has anyone else shortened the converter?

truck
I think Lewis from Electrical Connections told me once that the other brand 5 to 4 converters may not work with their relay isolation package. I was needing one to go with the trailer lighting isolation harness that came with my Bushtec hitch. I wound up driving up to Knoxville to the EC shop and picking one up. Plugged it in and it works like a champ.


Jim
tnwingrider
 

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Tnwingrider

I took your advice and got me an EC converter, and it cured all my ills.
Thank you so much.
I guess the U-Haul converter I got was a bad one. I never could find anyone around u-haul that knew anything about wiring, and I had cut the converter to solder into the system so I decided to just eat the $17. :lol:
Maybe I can find some use for it elsewhere. lol
Now I'm ready to travel once it gets nice all day. It seems to get really windy here each afternoon, so my rides are half day for now. :(

Truck
 

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truckco said:
Tnwingrider

I took your advice and got me an EC converter, and it cured all my ills.
Thank you so much.
I guess the U-Haul converter I got was a bad one. I never could find anyone around u-haul that knew anything about wiring, and I had cut the converter to solder into the system so I decided to just eat the $17. :lol:
Maybe I can find some use for it elsewhere. lol
Now I'm ready to travel once it gets nice all day. It seems to get really windy here each afternoon, so my rides are half day for now. :(

Truck
Glad yer all fixed up. :)

Jim
tnwingrider
 
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