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While it goes against my riding nature, I have a trip coming up that I may need to trailer my 2008 wing. Can anybody give me some tips on the best way to strap it? I have also looked at the trailer mount Condor wheel chocks many times but since I never really needed one, never invested in one. Any opinions on them and the claim to not need the additional straps in front?
 

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I have the condor trailer mounted chock. I makes loading easy. I drive into the chock, hop off and strap it down. I run soft ties thru the triple tree and ratchet straps pulling forward to collapse the front forks slightly. Then I pull my side covers off and put soft ties around the frame then ratchet them to each side of the trailer. Never have a problem.


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I trailered my 08 when I bought it. U haul trailer and 4 straps attached to the crash bars. Other than 1 strap breaking, everything worked fine. Should I need to do it again, I will probably look at more straps.

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Here is a picture of what MiWinger51 is talking about. This is on my 1500, but you do the same for the 1800. Do not use the crash bars!! The bolts could break. There are way to many posts about trailering talking about this. When my 1800 was shipped cross country with a shipping company, they use the rear bars as tie down points. Sure enough, the one of the two bolts were snapped but you could not tell until you took off the crash bar.

I am using the Harbor Freight bolt down wheel chock. If you are not using your own trailer, the free standing chock from Harbor Freight works great also. I use that one in my Toy Hauler.

I have never used a Condor Chock. I would not trust it without tie down straps!! I don't care what they say, with all the rough roads out there, it needs to be tied down to the trailer.
 

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I have the condor trailer mounted chock. I makes loading easy. I drive into the chock, hop off and strap it down. I run soft ties thru the triple tree and ratchet straps pulling forward to collapse the front forks slightly. Then I pull my side covers off and put soft ties around the frame then ratchet them to each side of the trailer. Never have a problem.


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Another vote for above method.

We are fans of our condor chocks. They will hold the bike while you get off to do straps -- but I wouldn't trailer without also tying down.

Soft ties around lower triple tree - partial compression of forks.
Sometimes I tie rear wheel instead of removing side covers to get to frame.
 

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I've seen many trailered to my shop, and 5th gens seem to trailer best when the front tire is in a chalk. If you do choose to use that method, Make sure your front tire chalk does not hit a fender extension on the back side.

Up front they also seem best secured when using a handle-bar harness too. However, if you have heated grips and they work, I would not use that method. Use then soft ties around the fork pipes and above the triple-tree.

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I concur with using a front wheel chock, Condor or similar. The old-school Pingel chock ( shown on right in above pic) is good for a small bike, but not this almost 1/2 ton legacy. And kudos to the pic above with at least 4 straps pulling FORWARD. If you have two forward and two backwards,and one of the forward one breaks or loosens, the bike will possibly become displaced ! Ask me how I know, lol. And I also prefer the ratchet straps, not the seat belt type tension buckle. Oh, and also secure the loose ends of the afore mentioned straps ---- if that strap is flailing in the wind, it will do a number on any painted surface , ask me how I know that too ,lol Good luck, ride safe and watch the idiots
 

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I have the condor trailer mounted chock. I makes loading easy. I drive into the chock, hop off and strap it down. I run soft ties thru the triple tree and ratchet straps pulling forward to collapse the front forks slightly. Then I pull my side covers off and put soft ties around the frame then ratchet them to each side of the trailer. Never have a problem.
This is the method that I use with the addition of a strap around a spoke of the rear wheel to keep it centered.. There is no chance of the bike dancing to the side..
 

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When strapping the triple tree, use two straps on each side. Just in case.
 

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Take a look at the Wheel dock. It is the best system along with triple tree and side frame straps that I have used.
 

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I have a related question. Has anyone had a problem with using wing’s reverse gear backing out of chock and straining to overcome the rear rocker that secures the bike? I haven’t tried that myself, but PO said that he was afraid of doing that since it seems risky. I’ve removed the fender extension, but just not sure if I will damage the starter/reverse motor or drive. I’m trailering next week and would like your input as I feel the hardest part of loading or unloading bike is when get off after riding it onto my tilt trailer. I think having the back rocker piece mounted on chock would be better. If you want a look at my chock, search amazon “Extreme Max 5001 chock”. Thanks in advance.
 

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I have a related question. Has anyone had a problem with using wing’s reverse gear backing out of chock and straining to overcome the rear rocker that secures the bike? I haven’t tried that myself, but PO said that he was afraid of doing that since it seems risky. I’ve removed the fender extension, but just not sure if I will damage the starter/reverse motor or drive. I’m trailering next week and would like your input as I feel the hardest part of loading or unloading bike is when get off after riding it onto my tilt trailer. I think having the back rocker piece mounted on chock would be better. If you want a look at my chock, search amazon “Extreme Max 5001 chock”. Thanks in advance.
I trailered my new Wing home because the timing did not work for my potential helpers.

I use a Condor ride in chock, a bar harness, and some tie downs.

Unloading was still a solo affair and I was expecting to just use reverse to back out of the chock.

It does not have enough torque. This is probably a legal issue ... the engine idle torque is far greater than what is delivered to the rear wheel in walking mode.

It is not strong enough to back you up an incline either.

The manual says it is for maneuvering the bike in parking lots when heavily loaded.

I was disappointed.... but I’ve gotten over it.
 

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I use reverse along with pulling on the bars and pushing backwards with my feet. The bike comes right out of the chalk without any problems. If you use your legs and the bars for most of the work and the reverse as a helper, you are not straining the reverse system. If you can park on a slight down hill, that helps also. Not to steep though!
 

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I put it in neutral and yanked it out, as I would have done with every other big bike.

Fighting against the transmission in reverse does not help. It is a hindrance.

In anticipation, like with every other big bike, park the trailer on a slight incline to let gravity help in unloading.
 

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Not going to argue with anyone regarding the crashbars

But Honda uses the front crash bars when shipping the bikes to the US. The provided picture is us uncrating my new bike. I have always used an LA Chock on the front, snugged it into the chock with straps on the front crash bars and then side to side on the rear crash bars to keep the rear of the bike moving left to right. Did this on my Valkyries, F6B and Gold Wing without any issues.

YMMV
 

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I trailered my new Wing home because the timing did not work for my potential helpers.

I use a Condor ride in chock, a bar harness, and some tie downs.

Unloading was still a solo affair and I was expecting to just use reverse to back out of the chock.

It does not have enough torque. This is probably a legal issue ... the engine idle torque is far greater than what is delivered to the rear wheel in walking mode.

It is not strong enough to back you up an incline either.

The manual says it is for maneuvering the bike in parking lots when heavily loaded.

I was disappointed.... but I’ve gotten over it.
I've used walking mode to reverse out of the condor chocks with both of our '18's.

The trick (imho) is to keep holding the switch after the bike stops moving. Until I discovered this, I was disappointed too.

It will adjust the throttle/clutch and overcome resistance of the chock.


Similar action when going ahead in walking move if it encounters higher resistance to motion.
 

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Try a "wheel dock" chock system there is no teeter totter resistance to overcome.
 

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I've used walking mode to reverse out of the condor chocks with both of our '18's.

The trick (imho) is to keep holding the switch after the bike stops moving. Until I discovered this, I was disappointed too.

It will adjust the throttle/clutch and overcome resistance of the chock.


Similar action when going ahead in walking move if it encounters higher resistance to motion.
I did this instinctively. Maybe I’m too impatient. I like reverse on level ground with the bars not too far from center.

I’d love to do a direct comparison with one whose owner says it’s good. It may be that mine is extra wimpy ... or it may be that my expectations were/are too high.

I may check out a demonstrator.

Thanks!
 

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I feel a bit dull witted.

I got to thinking about DCT, and that it takes a bit of warm up.

My usual routine for years has been to start a bike, back it out in neutral, put it on the kickstand to warm up, and don my gear.

With the DCT used in reverse right after start up, it’s no wonder I’ve been disappointed.

This morning I let the DCT warm up in the garage. It had a lot more torque on back up.

When I tried to back out of the chock after trailering the bike home, it was stone cold. I should have warmed it up in the trailer before engaging reverse.

This appears to be a highjacked thread, but I learned something anyway.
 
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