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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2010 GW with 143K miles and today it decided that it did not want to shift any more. It was shifting just fine and then I went to down shift and the shifter moved but would not down shift. Finally got it to shift to 3rd gear but won't go up or down.
What do you think guys, Bent shifter Fork? Oh yea no symptoms of "GhOST SHIFTING!
 

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GL1800 Doctor
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I have a 2010 GW with 143K miles and today it decided that it did not want to shift any more. It was shifting just fine and then I went to down shift and the shifter moved but would not down shift. Finally got it to shift to 3rd gear but won't go up or down.
What do you think guys, Bent shifter Fork? Oh yea no symptoms of "GhOST SHIFTING!
Could be a broken spring on the link arms up front. To check it you have to drain the oil, then remove the transmission cover. It’s the cover beside the oil filter and has the clutch slave cylinder bolted to it. I assume it runs fine sitting still as long as the clutch lever is held?

 

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I'd remove and inspect the Clutch Slave Cylinder... they will gunk-up, making shifting hard or impossible.



I bought a 1990 which was almost un-shiftable... PO thought the transmission was bad. It actually was a simple gunked-up piston, in the slave.
 
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Discussion Starter #7
Well, I haven't got to open it up and inspect the shifter area yet, but I found out that it shifts fine UNTIL the engine gets fully warmed up. That was about 15 minutes after the temp gauge got to operating temp. I will open it up this weekend.
 

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GL1800 Doctor
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Well, I haven't got to open it up and inspect the shifter area yet, but I found out that it shifts fine UNTIL the engine gets fully warmed up. That was about 15 minutes after the temp gauge got to operating temp. I will open it up this weekend.
This symptom, indicates a possible issue with the slave cylinder. I would flush and bleed the clutch fluid before opening up the cover. Let us know what you find.
 

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Too Late, I just opened up the cover and everything looks tip top. Nothing looks out of order. I will flush the clutch fluid next. I Know I should have done that first. You always do the easiest thing first, but I do everything the hard way.
I'll keep you all updated.
 

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Too Late, I just opened up the cover and everything looks tip top. Nothing looks out of order. I will flush the clutch fluid next. I Know I should have done that first. You always do the easiest thing first, but I do everything the hard way.
I'll keep you all updated.
The first thing to check is the shift lever. Verify that there is nothing obstructing shift lever movement. If you have a heal toe, remove it and see how it shifts using only the OEM shift lever.

If you do have a heal/toe, verify that's not hitting an incorrectly mounted engine cover and/or aftermarket chrome at the heal.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well my initial test after bleeding clutch servo in garage and on center stand is a success. I waited for fans to come on and it shifted normal, I will test it tomorrow after I get everything cleared out of garage to move it.
 

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Well my initial test after bleeding clutch servo in garage and on center stand is a success. I waited for fans to come on and it shifted normal, I will test it tomorrow after I get everything cleared out of garage to move it.

After your test run, take that Slave Cylinder back out and CLEAN IT... Bleeding it does not even begin to remove all the gunk that collects on the bottom.
Remove the ~Ft long Rod behind it too... as it develope's a small ridge on the forward end; you can clean it and/or Reverse-it upon re-installation.



I just did same on my 1500 this past weekend; used nylon scrub pads to remove the minor corrosion; and replace the rubber seals. I bleed my clutch every 2yrs, and it's been 10yrs since last rebuild.

I also re-assembled (1st time doing this) using "Hydraulic Assembly Lube" on the seals and piston... So far I am A-M-A-Z-E-D at how much smoother the clutch operates; usually I re-assemble "dry" as that's the condition (apart from brake fluid) that the piston normally operates.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well all is well again. It turned out after bleeding and doing a fluid change, it fixed the problem. Maybe last fluid change I got air in system, but I don't know. But any how all is well.
Thanks everyone for your help. Much appreciated.
 

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FWIW, Honda recommends changing it every 12,000 miles or 2 years, which ever comes first.

Maybe 50,000 is a little long?
I agree and it is important to remember that for some, 12,000 or 2yrs is too long. For most maintenance items, sooner is better.
 
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