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Discussion Starter #1
Just in case you wondered what it looks like, here is the left (anti-dive side) Traxxion fork leg internals. You need a special tool to compress the spring so you can remove the top cap and nut, but other than that, it's no harder than working on the old style fork leg.

 

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Fred,
I assume this is your 09. Have you checked the wheels for proper balance and your valve shims to verify the factory put it together correctly? Seriously, I wonder how many come off the factory line that have marginal problems?

Safe Riding

Rick
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Fred,
I assume this is your 09. Have you checked the wheels for proper balance and your valve shims to verify the factory put it together correctly? Seriously, I wonder how many come off the factory line that have marginal problems?

Safe Riding

Rick
Actually, both my wheels were out of balance. They had weights on them, but they were the wrong amount and in the wrong location.

I haven't taken the valve covers off (yet) to check the valve clearances since I only have about 3,500 miles on it. I'm taking apart the fork leg for the purpose of filming it.

I really haven't found any serious assembly problems of the bike, and I have already had most of it apart at least once. The wheel balance was the only real problem I have found.

One thing I was a bit surprised by yesterday when I drained the left fork leg was the color of the fork oil. This fork has about 2,500 miles on it, and I had always blamed the dark oil from the left leg on the anti-dive system and the damper rod style fork. Well, even with it converted to an AK-20 Traxxiion damper cartridge system, it still came out pretty dark, especially for as few miles as are on it. I guess it's a function of the teflon bushing wearing on the inside of the outer fork leg. Since the right fork is made in Japan, and the left in the US, I wonder if the surface the bushing rides on in the left fork leg outer (bore) is maybe not finished as smooth or precise as the right side is?
 

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Here is a look at the new second seal and aluminum back up washer added in 2006 and beyond Gold Wings to the left fork leg.

Traxxion does not use this second seal or either back up washer, and instead insert their own aluminum back up spacer. This is probably a good thing too, since I found alot of rust on the steel back up washer on my 2009, enough that it had left a rust ring on the slider tube itself.

This photos shows (from left to right) lower aluminum back up ring, second "packing" seal added in 2006, upper back up ring, and the fork seal.




This photo shows the Honda parts on the left and the aluminum back up ring that Traxxion uses to replace both back up rings and the "packing" seal on the right. Note the visible rust on the Honda upper back up ring.



Here is the rust that the upper back up ring put on my fork tube. The bike had less than 1,000 miles on it when this photo was taken!

 

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Fred, was the steel backup washer used prior to? I have a 04 model and have not had a reason to take apart yet! Thanks
 

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Fred
I got all the instructions from Mike at Trazxion. I did the service on mine this past summer and found both legs oil was a bit dirty but not too bad with 35,000 kms on them. I also moved the cap up a half turn from their position to lessen the dampning, much better for me.

I will be at Traxxion for their Training this week.

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Fred
I got all the instructions from Mike at Trazxion. I did the service on mine this past summer and found both legs oil was a bit dirty but not too bad with 35,000 kms on them. I also moved the cap up a half turn from their position to lessen the dampning, much better for me.

I will be at Traxxion for their Training this week.

Cheers
I assume you mean the position of the cap as it is screwed onto the damper cartridge, to decrease the rebound damping, correct? I measured the position of the nut on mine when I took the cap off, and it was almost exactly 10mm down on the threads from the top.
 

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:popcorn:
 

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Fred
It should be measured by the number of turns up from lightly bottomed on the metering rod. If I remember correctly it is 1.5 from Traxxion and I set mine at 2 full turns. You got it backwards, the further up(left), the less rebound damping. According to Traxxion a quarter turn will make a difference, I went with a half turn and really like the difference it made.

I am currently on the road in VA. Will be at Traxxion on Tuesday morning.
 

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Fred
It should be measured by the number of turns up from lightly bottomed on the metering rod. If I remember correctly it is 1.5 from Traxxion and I set mine at 2 full turns. You got it backwards, the further up(left), the less rebound damping. According to Traxxion a quarter turn will make a difference, I went with a half turn and really like the difference it made.

I am currently on the road in VA. Will be at Traxxion on Tuesday morning.
Sorry, I should have said correct? not right. As I understand it, as you screw the cap down onto the metering rod, it should increase rebound damping.

I assume Traxxion set it when they assembled it, so I just carefully unscrewed the fork cap from the damper cartridge without disturbing the position of the lock nut, and then measured the distance from the top of the threaded rod to the top surface of the nut. It was 10.3 mm when I took it off. I assume if I reset it to this same height when I put it back together, it should be correct.
 

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Fred can you tell us anymore about the special tool you need to compress the spring? Maybe the price and a picture?
 

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It's available from Traxxion and there is a picture on their web site.
 
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